TIA This IS Africa

Instead of plunging back into work at Mountain High Hospital at the start of the New Year, Brendon and I have returned to Pretoria for follow-up treatment of the infected wisdom tooth pulled last month. The dentist diagnosed the problem as “Dry Socket” and prescribed the antibiotic that will cure the bone infection so today I am on the mend-mending in comfort next to a beautiful swimming pool in a tropical setting. This morning we attending the Uniting Presbyterian Church in Hatfield which aptly describes the country-Uniting is in process; not there yet. Tomorrow a final recheck with the dentist and then back to Mountain High Hospital to assist the patients and staff.

The Occupational Therapy is continually in flux as patients are discharged and new patients are admitted. The last month had the men in the majority and they eagerly sewed shirts, beaded and made shoes from impala skins. Unfortunately, they spend more time at the hospital as they are less compliant with the drug and lifestyle regimes for TB and AIDS. So towards the end of December many women were discharged or given passes while the men remained confined to the Hospital. Both the men and women are amiable and fun to work with. In spite of their conditions, they never whine or feel sorry for themselves and seek to laugh and joke at any opportunity-especially at the absurd Zulu of their American handcraft teacher!

I have wondered why the blogs of my colleagues are not as full of wonder and insights as they originally were when we first arrived at our work sights. The problem is that the inane experiences and amazing sights are now old hat and we are failing to see the beauty and delight of the everyday as it has now become commonplace. The taxi rides are tedious and uncomfortable. The wonderful inguni cows and goats in the road are just a nusiance. (Our taxi driver Mr. Zulu purchased a long whip when he purchased his new van which he uses to swat the cows which will not move out of the road. The goats are smarter and scurry to the roadside when cars come). Being a pedestrian is fraught with danger and fear from drivers and muggers. 40% of all traffic fatalities in SA are pedestrian deaths. The drivers speed up in intersections instead of slowing down. The pedestrian does not have the right of way and has to scurry out of the road just like the goats. The attitude “TIA This IS Africa” was humorous at first but now the delays, slowness of pace and inability to get anything done creates a feeling of impotence and waste, albeit the status quo.

Employees in South Africa complain about the low wages but they appreciate the generous public holidays, paid leave, government medical care, tea time breaks, long lunch periods, no overtime required and secure employment. I have told them about work in America with 10 hour days, weekend work, no coffee breaks, intense competition for jobs, accountability for productivity, and customer service satisfaction. Plus if one cannot rise to the task there are dozens waiting in line for the job. Globalization requires that productivity must rise in order to meet world standards. The employees are incredulous about work standards in America but they also are incredulous that Americans would volunteer to come to Africa to work for nothing.

Family is everything to South Africans and that spirit of community or Ubuntu is the factor that is keeping the villages together in spite of all the deaths of parents and workers from AIDS. Everyone is an Auntie or Sister or Brother or Father and they do not hesitate to jump in and help care for the orphans left behind.

In spite of sounding jaded and tired of my experience as a volunteer in South Africa, there are so many things that I love about the country and its people. These blessings and pleasures are bestowed in so many ways in many places:
The beautiful smiles of the children in our mountain community and their eagerness to talk and run with us. “Gejima” (Run) I call, “Shesha” (Faster).
The over 900 varieties of birds in this country that create a landscape of color and sound. The gardens are landscaping in the cities are crowded with exotic birds with beautiful calls not to mention the ever present hadeda Ibis which scream at the top of their lungs in flight and are beautiful/ugly in their iridescent feathers and huge ungainly forms
Game spotting when you least expect it. Yesterday at the botanical gardens in Pretoria a young grey duiker was seen in a field of yellow wild flowers next to two guinea fowl, proud in their white spots and turquoise crest. Game is ubiquitous in South Africa, not just the national parks or game preserves. The fun is to spot and then identify the game and see what other species are around. Giraffes are never alone; zebras are often accompanied by eland or impalas. Baboons are always in a troop with the babies clutching the mother’s breast as she runs through the forest.
Learning many new cultures and customs finally getting the story straight. Last year when we arrived a minister announced that he had an impala to give away. We did not know whether he was referring to a car or a mammal but now we know that animals, hides, skins and antlers are all part of the cultures here not to mention biltong (jerky) which is made from every type of game including elephant.
The wonderful tribal clothing and uniforms that everyone wears from school children in their striped ties and colors to church ladies with blue and white started gowns or crimson with white crosses.
The hospitality and comfort of the lodges, backpackers and b and b establishments and the unique flavor of each. It will be hard going back to cookie cutter motels in America. (not to mention US food and wine prices Ugh!)

So there is a reason that Peace Corps service is only 2 years. After that the wonder and appreciation for the novelty and excitement wears off and one becomes part of the system here in South Africa. We will see how much of the US seems new when we get home and surely will miss many things about SA. See you in July!