No Money No Honey

This weekend South Africa celebrated May 1, Workers Day, and May 2, Human Rights Day, gifting the workers with a four day weekend. South Africa takes public holidays seriously guaranteeing them under “Conditions of Employment” labor law. Workers Day was used by unions to “toy toy’ (protest) rising food and transportation costs, which disproportionately affect the poor (and Peace Corps volunteers on a fixed income). Many staple food items; cooking oil, corn, cheese, milk, eggs, have almost doubled in price. Taxi fares have risen at least 20% while wages remain constant.

As Peace Corps volunteers we hear first hand the woes of the rural poor. Besides the immediate deprivations from increases in food, fuel and transport, their isolation increases as trips to town are reduced. Access to employment, advanced education and economic opportunities is also reduced as transport costs increase. South Africa is two countries with the rural poor often stuck in subsistence activities; cultural beliefs conflict with first world knowledge. Ancestors are revered - does ancestor worship continue? AIDS and HIV are understood but sangomas (traditional healers) are often consulted before doctors. Sangomas throw their bones (tiny rocks and shells) to diagnose a customer's ailments. AIDS (also called Zulu Disease) may be attributed to a neighbor’s hex.

The Gauteng province (Johannesburg and Pretoria) produce 80% of the nation’s GDP and has a service/manufacturing economy to match the first world. However, the rest of the nation struggles with massive unemployment and a work ethic that may not compete with other developing nations. Wages are depressed compared to prices and workers are laden with high interest debt. Inflation has risen above 10% but even with lengthy strikes last summer, wages increased only 7.5% in the public sector.

The Bond’s used the weekend to plan for their return to the United States. We considered the steps needed to exit South Africa and the processes required to return to our life in Palos Verdes. Consumer goods loom large as an alluring, yet scary proposition after two years without a car, washing machine, television or CD player. Returned Peace Corps volunteers are reportedly anti consumerism or the opposite-they readily embrace the consumerism of the first world. Have we changed? Do we need or want “all that stuff” that becomes a burden as one ages. From our experience with loved ones, we all end up in a small room, in a small bed with one change of clothes.

What household items did we throw away or give away that we will need? More likely in the 44 boxes at Bekins storage, what additional pieces of crockery, potato mashers or bath towels should be been given away to simplify life, help someone else or reduce the Bekins monthly bill. What about our king size platform bed that we couldn’t find a home for and had to lay on the street for the trash collectors. Last night I ogled over new beds on the Costco and Macy’s web site and was a little embarrassed to be sucked into American style consumerism. Our last night at home in America was spent on the floor-we slept like tired old dogs! Peace corps has taught resilience as well as patience and flexibility. Hope it holds in the US.

The food price increase and subprime market have created uncertain conditions at home in America, especially for the working poor. We have been gone for two years, leaving in 2006 when housing prices were still shooting through the roof, wages were increasing and consumers were spending all of their paychecks and more. We entered the Peace Corps hoping to live on the small monthly stipend (approx $230) that is provided for food, communication (cell phone, internet) transport, recreation, travel, and clothing. With the upturn in food prices, the stipend has barely covered our food costs. Taxi cost each week to make the 80km trip to town to purchase food total $16 for the two of us. Local residents purchase staple groceries in town only once a month as their salaries are only a little more than the Peace Corps stipend. Thus their diets are deficient in nutrients, although no one is starving as in other parts of Africa.

So, what does it cost to join the Peace Corps? Contrary to our expectations, travel, communication and transportation cannot be done on the Peace Corps budget. Other hidden costs of the experience are financial and business management costs at home, storage of furniture and belongings for two years. Of course, the major cost has been the loss of income for two years, but that is a given. We left the US with credit card debt and will return with the same. However it sure has been a fun ride!