The world is a small place – surprises happen in the least expected way. Last weekend a South African Peace Corps couple working with the education program arrived at Mountain High Hospital for a site visit. Peace Corps volunteers are encouraged to visit other sites to offer skills, support and see another version of the Peace Corps experience. The site visit was not surprising but the demographics of the couple blew us over.
John and Christine, US Peace Corps Volunteers in the Northwest province, live one km from our home in Palos Verdes, Calif. We had never met them before arriving in South Africa but surely in our 22 years of residing in that lovely beachside town, we ran into them on the bumpy road circling the town, or at the post office or farmer’s market. Further ironies abound including the fact that Christine’s parents lived on our street and she resided with her parents when we moved into our home in 1987. We must have passed each other up and down the hills of Palos Verdes, me pushing a baby stroller and her jogging to maintain her trim figure. They are roughly the same age as us and the same middle class occupations; she an elementary school teacher and he an aerospace engineer like Brendon. To many observers, the residents of Palos Verdes may appear to be materialistic workaholics with nary an altruistic thought. We have learned that success does not obviate a desire to make one’s life count for good and that material success can create opportunities for service and mission.
In our former working lives, we did not have time to stop and chat with the neighbors and learn about their lives. However, Peace Corps volunteers have ample time to get to know other volunteers and relish the opportunity to speak freely and be understood, especially to new friends who are from home. What a coincidence! Another irony is that both of us have homes in very close proximity to the national training center for our current NGO in South Africa. Truly a small world!
The trip to Richards Bay to meet John and Christine was an adventure in itself. The ride down the mountain was a first as the only available transport was in the poor man’s hearse-an enclosed pick-up truck operated by Zuntal Funerals. We were glad for any ride at all as there is only one bus a day that leaves Vryheid at 3pm and arrives in RB at 6pm. We squeezed into the cab, passing up the opportunity to ride with the silent passengers in the bed of the truck. The driver was animated in his description of his journeys all over South Africa to retrieve the dead-most from AIDS but many from gun fights and vehicle accidents. As we entered town, he pulled over and said we had to get out as he did not want the mortuary owners spotting him with living passengers. He had no change for our R100 (the trip should have cost R50) we were out R50 and 2 miles to the Greyhound bus stop. Plus we were next to a grassy field by a location (government housing) and we shouted “Target” with our backpacks and bags. We passed the location, junkyards, funeral parlors, body shops, big box hardware stores, town park, taxi rank, discount stores, grocery stores, clothing stores, shoe stores, fabric stores, department stores, banks, jewelry stores, post office, and finally arrived at the bench in front of the Spar Market that serves as the bus stop. The bus was 30 minutes late but was a big relief when we climbed on the double decker and headed for Richards Bay to meet John and Christine.
For those of you that have been following the headlines about South Africa, do not worry about PCVs at Mountain High Hospital. We are safe with only the sounds of the Ha De Da Ibis to keep us awake and the high schoolers as they cheer when school is out or they are on their way to study hall. The protesters are complaining that foreigners are taking their jobs and women. We tell people at the Hospital that we are not here to do their work; we are here to enable them to get ahead and improve their lives.
Saturday, May 24, 2008
Monday, May 12, 2008
Mother's Day 2008
It is Mother’s Day weekend and I am missing my two sons in America. They have had two birthdays since we left Los Angeles. As we have changed through the Peace Corps experience, they have changed in ways we do not know. They have found new support systems and are independent men. We missed two years of their lives; likewise we missed two years of American life and culture. Our youngest son Alex has graduated from UCLA and is on the job hunt. Our oldest son, Erik, has worked as a Manhattan attorney for 4 years and is shooting for a partnership in his law factory. So congratulations to Alex and Erik. Thanks for letting your parents realize their dream. We will be home soon and will take another stab at parenting. Sorry for the absence!
Peace Corps volunteers miss the daily contact with friends and family and the family events that weave society together. However, other volunteers and new adopted families fill the void left from loved ones at home. This weekend two volunteers visited Mountain High and the laughter began as soon as they stepped off the bus. We would never have met these two great pals had we not joined Peace Corps as one is a new college grad in his 20’s with an interest in music and biology and the other a fortyish film producer from Michigan. What would these two Americans have in common with a coot couple from Palos Verdes? Well, the conversation and fun started immediately after they arrived and continued the whole weekend as we hiked the steep treks at Mountain High and ventured through the nearby indigenous forest with cool shady canopies, waterfalls, delicate white orchids and fern grottos. They both love hiking, nature, adventure and discovery. They squealed with delight at the 5” brown locust with chartreuse beading around his neck, just like four-year-olds. They were game for climbing rocks, trees and cadging avocados from the huge tree on the hospital site. As good Peace Corps volunteers, not a complaint was uttered about sleeping on the hard floor or the lack of water.
Peace Corps teaches more than patience and flexibility-one learns to have fun and to enjoy the company of unlikely companions. These two volunteers have shared our experience and have the same issues about the complexity of life in South Africa (we love it except when we hate it), trouble with NGOs and the tragedy of AIDS. Together we have all seen unspeakable suffering and so many needless deaths. They are also interested in helping the world and saving the environment. They speak freely, without cynicism, about income generation for the poor and renewable resources. Peace Corps volunteers may not “save the world” but they do have success in passing on first world skills and showing the positive determination of Americans to their colleagues and friends.
Our Peace Corps guests entertained the patients with origami, yoga, and a delightful fable in Zulu about a couple who was granted three wishes as a reward for freeing a monkey’s tail. The moral of the fable was to be careful what you wish for. As we return to the United States we are full of wishes and hopes for the future. How will we fit back into our home community? What will our lives look like a year from now? One thing that we have learned; one’s happiness and joy of living are not based on external conveniences; the absence of convenience may cause annoyance and frustration but not unhappiness. Whereas, access to conveniences does not bring happiness or satisfaction. American lives are full of stress and difficulty in spite of the affluence and amenities. Our lives here have been very simple, but intensely rewarding. We have found a purpose for every day-can the same be said for our comfortable lives in the US?
Peace Corps volunteers miss the daily contact with friends and family and the family events that weave society together. However, other volunteers and new adopted families fill the void left from loved ones at home. This weekend two volunteers visited Mountain High and the laughter began as soon as they stepped off the bus. We would never have met these two great pals had we not joined Peace Corps as one is a new college grad in his 20’s with an interest in music and biology and the other a fortyish film producer from Michigan. What would these two Americans have in common with a coot couple from Palos Verdes? Well, the conversation and fun started immediately after they arrived and continued the whole weekend as we hiked the steep treks at Mountain High and ventured through the nearby indigenous forest with cool shady canopies, waterfalls, delicate white orchids and fern grottos. They both love hiking, nature, adventure and discovery. They squealed with delight at the 5” brown locust with chartreuse beading around his neck, just like four-year-olds. They were game for climbing rocks, trees and cadging avocados from the huge tree on the hospital site. As good Peace Corps volunteers, not a complaint was uttered about sleeping on the hard floor or the lack of water.
Peace Corps teaches more than patience and flexibility-one learns to have fun and to enjoy the company of unlikely companions. These two volunteers have shared our experience and have the same issues about the complexity of life in South Africa (we love it except when we hate it), trouble with NGOs and the tragedy of AIDS. Together we have all seen unspeakable suffering and so many needless deaths. They are also interested in helping the world and saving the environment. They speak freely, without cynicism, about income generation for the poor and renewable resources. Peace Corps volunteers may not “save the world” but they do have success in passing on first world skills and showing the positive determination of Americans to their colleagues and friends.
Our Peace Corps guests entertained the patients with origami, yoga, and a delightful fable in Zulu about a couple who was granted three wishes as a reward for freeing a monkey’s tail. The moral of the fable was to be careful what you wish for. As we return to the United States we are full of wishes and hopes for the future. How will we fit back into our home community? What will our lives look like a year from now? One thing that we have learned; one’s happiness and joy of living are not based on external conveniences; the absence of convenience may cause annoyance and frustration but not unhappiness. Whereas, access to conveniences does not bring happiness or satisfaction. American lives are full of stress and difficulty in spite of the affluence and amenities. Our lives here have been very simple, but intensely rewarding. We have found a purpose for every day-can the same be said for our comfortable lives in the US?
Sunday, May 04, 2008
No Money No Honey
This weekend South Africa celebrated May 1, Workers Day, and May 2, Human Rights Day, gifting the workers with a four day weekend. South Africa takes public holidays seriously guaranteeing them under “Conditions of Employment” labor law. Workers Day was used by unions to “toy toy’ (protest) rising food and transportation costs, which disproportionately affect the poor (and Peace Corps volunteers on a fixed income). Many staple food items; cooking oil, corn, cheese, milk, eggs, have almost doubled in price. Taxi fares have risen at least 20% while wages remain constant.
As Peace Corps volunteers we hear first hand the woes of the rural poor. Besides the immediate deprivations from increases in food, fuel and transport, their isolation increases as trips to town are reduced. Access to employment, advanced education and economic opportunities is also reduced as transport costs increase. South Africa is two countries with the rural poor often stuck in subsistence activities; cultural beliefs conflict with first world knowledge. Ancestors are revered - does ancestor worship continue? AIDS and HIV are understood but sangomas (traditional healers) are often consulted before doctors. Sangomas throw their bones (tiny rocks and shells) to diagnose a customer's ailments. AIDS (also called Zulu Disease) may be attributed to a neighbor’s hex.
The Gauteng province (Johannesburg and Pretoria) produce 80% of the nation’s GDP and has a service/manufacturing economy to match the first world. However, the rest of the nation struggles with massive unemployment and a work ethic that may not compete with other developing nations. Wages are depressed compared to prices and workers are laden with high interest debt. Inflation has risen above 10% but even with lengthy strikes last summer, wages increased only 7.5% in the public sector.
The Bond’s used the weekend to plan for their return to the United States. We considered the steps needed to exit South Africa and the processes required to return to our life in Palos Verdes. Consumer goods loom large as an alluring, yet scary proposition after two years without a car, washing machine, television or CD player. Returned Peace Corps volunteers are reportedly anti consumerism or the opposite-they readily embrace the consumerism of the first world. Have we changed? Do we need or want “all that stuff” that becomes a burden as one ages. From our experience with loved ones, we all end up in a small room, in a small bed with one change of clothes.
What household items did we throw away or give away that we will need? More likely in the 44 boxes at Bekins storage, what additional pieces of crockery, potato mashers or bath towels should be been given away to simplify life, help someone else or reduce the Bekins monthly bill. What about our king size platform bed that we couldn’t find a home for and had to lay on the street for the trash collectors. Last night I ogled over new beds on the Costco and Macy’s web site and was a little embarrassed to be sucked into American style consumerism. Our last night at home in America was spent on the floor-we slept like tired old dogs! Peace corps has taught resilience as well as patience and flexibility. Hope it holds in the US.
The food price increase and subprime market have created uncertain conditions at home in America, especially for the working poor. We have been gone for two years, leaving in 2006 when housing prices were still shooting through the roof, wages were increasing and consumers were spending all of their paychecks and more. We entered the Peace Corps hoping to live on the small monthly stipend (approx $230) that is provided for food, communication (cell phone, internet) transport, recreation, travel, and clothing. With the upturn in food prices, the stipend has barely covered our food costs. Taxi cost each week to make the 80km trip to town to purchase food total $16 for the two of us. Local residents purchase staple groceries in town only once a month as their salaries are only a little more than the Peace Corps stipend. Thus their diets are deficient in nutrients, although no one is starving as in other parts of Africa.
So, what does it cost to join the Peace Corps? Contrary to our expectations, travel, communication and transportation cannot be done on the Peace Corps budget. Other hidden costs of the experience are financial and business management costs at home, storage of furniture and belongings for two years. Of course, the major cost has been the loss of income for two years, but that is a given. We left the US with credit card debt and will return with the same. However it sure has been a fun ride!
As Peace Corps volunteers we hear first hand the woes of the rural poor. Besides the immediate deprivations from increases in food, fuel and transport, their isolation increases as trips to town are reduced. Access to employment, advanced education and economic opportunities is also reduced as transport costs increase. South Africa is two countries with the rural poor often stuck in subsistence activities; cultural beliefs conflict with first world knowledge. Ancestors are revered - does ancestor worship continue? AIDS and HIV are understood but sangomas (traditional healers) are often consulted before doctors. Sangomas throw their bones (tiny rocks and shells) to diagnose a customer's ailments. AIDS (also called Zulu Disease) may be attributed to a neighbor’s hex.
The Gauteng province (Johannesburg and Pretoria) produce 80% of the nation’s GDP and has a service/manufacturing economy to match the first world. However, the rest of the nation struggles with massive unemployment and a work ethic that may not compete with other developing nations. Wages are depressed compared to prices and workers are laden with high interest debt. Inflation has risen above 10% but even with lengthy strikes last summer, wages increased only 7.5% in the public sector.
The Bond’s used the weekend to plan for their return to the United States. We considered the steps needed to exit South Africa and the processes required to return to our life in Palos Verdes. Consumer goods loom large as an alluring, yet scary proposition after two years without a car, washing machine, television or CD player. Returned Peace Corps volunteers are reportedly anti consumerism or the opposite-they readily embrace the consumerism of the first world. Have we changed? Do we need or want “all that stuff” that becomes a burden as one ages. From our experience with loved ones, we all end up in a small room, in a small bed with one change of clothes.
What household items did we throw away or give away that we will need? More likely in the 44 boxes at Bekins storage, what additional pieces of crockery, potato mashers or bath towels should be been given away to simplify life, help someone else or reduce the Bekins monthly bill. What about our king size platform bed that we couldn’t find a home for and had to lay on the street for the trash collectors. Last night I ogled over new beds on the Costco and Macy’s web site and was a little embarrassed to be sucked into American style consumerism. Our last night at home in America was spent on the floor-we slept like tired old dogs! Peace corps has taught resilience as well as patience and flexibility. Hope it holds in the US.
The food price increase and subprime market have created uncertain conditions at home in America, especially for the working poor. We have been gone for two years, leaving in 2006 when housing prices were still shooting through the roof, wages were increasing and consumers were spending all of their paychecks and more. We entered the Peace Corps hoping to live on the small monthly stipend (approx $230) that is provided for food, communication (cell phone, internet) transport, recreation, travel, and clothing. With the upturn in food prices, the stipend has barely covered our food costs. Taxi cost each week to make the 80km trip to town to purchase food total $16 for the two of us. Local residents purchase staple groceries in town only once a month as their salaries are only a little more than the Peace Corps stipend. Thus their diets are deficient in nutrients, although no one is starving as in other parts of Africa.
So, what does it cost to join the Peace Corps? Contrary to our expectations, travel, communication and transportation cannot be done on the Peace Corps budget. Other hidden costs of the experience are financial and business management costs at home, storage of furniture and belongings for two years. Of course, the major cost has been the loss of income for two years, but that is a given. We left the US with credit card debt and will return with the same. However it sure has been a fun ride!
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