Safari Spa

After a tumultuous week, Brendon and I are celebrating Reconciliation Day at a Safari Spa in Zululand, a unique concept that combines wild game park, nature preserve with natural springs and mud baths. Something for everyone! This morning was spent hiking through the game park enjoying the numerous acacias with flowers every color of the rainbow, at least 20 varieties of butterflies and indigenous green scrub covering the rocky mountainsides up to the river which is the source of the spa the verdant paradise that one sees. There are warnings around about the black mambas that lurk in the grasses- one bite from an affronted mamba brings death in 45 minutes. There are also green mambas whose venom is less deadly and whose bright chartreuse color is a delight to behold. (We have spotted dead ones on our dirt road at the Hospital). We hiked down by the crocodile camp which is actually recycled water from the four natural hot water pools. The crocodiles thrive in the warm water. We walked along the edge of the fence of the camp after watching the crocs cruising in the pond and came across two sleeping crocs at the edge of the fence. Their mouths gaped open and they looked like Disney fakes but one opened his eye and growled at Brendon, eyeing lunch for this day. Ironically crocodiles are not feared in the same manner as snakes, which are feared by all cultures in South Africa and given an inordinate amount of attention.

A small delight of the hike was two dung beetles doing their heavy work of rolling a small ball of dung up a slope to their nest. The dung was approximately 1” in diameter and the beetles were less than ½” across. One beetle would spin the huge mound around and the second would push the mound forward, capitalizing on the momentum from the first beetle. What a great allegory for marriage or any partnership where one plus one can be better than two. Their attempts were humorous as times as the huge ball would end up in crevices and they had to roll the ball down the crevice, loosing the ground they had gained. But they were unrelenting and unstoppable in their task of capturing that ball of dung for their common good or whatever it is that dung beetles do with their precious find.

The hot water pools are fun for soaking and meditation, not to mention getting the kinks out of old Peace Corps Volunteers. Tomorrow we may try the hot mud pool down by the river. Kids swimming in the water pool today related their experience. One lowers themselves into the mud which is warm on top but cold on the bottom. The mud feels great on the skin but is a nuisance to remove from hair and body orifices. The mud is like sand and does not stick but one cannot float around in the cauldron. But it sure is a lot of fun to throw at your friend or cousin, who is standing close by.

Trouble seems to strike in threes as last Saturday I woke up at 4am with an impacted wisdom tooth causing pain that throbbed, hissed, jerked, and banged at my jaw. Consultation with a local dentist showed that the half emerged wisdom tooth was infected and needed to be pulled. This is no easy task as there are no local oral surgeons and pulling wisdom teeth from the old (and supposedly wise) American is no easy task. Thus 9 days later I am facing another risk/benefit decision. Plus there is the additional problem of the Christmas holidays when most of South Africa is on their summer vacation.

Impacted wisdom teeth problems pale in comparison with the HIV crisis in South Africa. This week the Hospital driver who was just admitted to the male ward with Pneumonia died and broke everyone’s heart. He was a charming man who just last week won his first game at Bingo and clowned around making the patients laugh and forget their plight. AIDS Day was celebrated on Thursday with speeches, music, candle lighting and the admonishment that “It Starts with YOU”. The needless death of the driver was on everyone’s mind as the Hospital will be at a loss without this essential person and we will miss his friendship. The day was not without its bright moments as the patients in the Jabule handcrafts strutted out in their finest hand sewn skirts, shirts (yes the men are now sewing very trendy African shirts), hats and beading. They formed a choir and entertained the hospital with their four part acapella harmony. They were an inspiration to live not just positively, but to catch the joy of life, in spite of its travails.