Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Walking Safari
South Africa has many attractions, but none can compete with the Wildlife and Game which can be found in many areas of the country. This weekend we tried a new adventure-The Walking Safari at a game preserve near Mountain High Hospital in Kwa Zulu Natal. Most game preserves require that the visitor stay in their car at all times. Viewing game from the car or open air jeep is fun but the bush calls for trekking to be done on foot. By staying in the car, one can get closer to the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and cape buffalo) and better photos but nothing can compare to tracking a rhinos feces or listening for the crack of timber as the elephant breaks apart trees for lunch.
The Bush Camp experience starts with meeting the ranger at the gate of the huge preserve and heading off to the camp deep in the sand forest. After a 25 minute drive in the open air jeep, the driver abruptly stops in the dirt road and announces that we have arrived. No trace of building or man’s intrusions into the bush is apparent until we walk a small path and arrive at the HQ tent for the camp. Couches and bookshelves line the tent and cold glasses of juice greet the visitor. The four tents accommodating 8 guests are located out in the bush with no views of any other tent, just the forest, scrub and bushes of this ecosystem.
Walking Safari Bush Camp day starts at 515am with hot water lugged to each tent and coffee awaiting. By 6am the eight of us (four couples, youngish and oldish) head out on the trail with our two armed guides. Cormorants, kingfishers, darters, and eagles are spotted on the trail. Shy nyala dart into the bush and we pass. Our guides show us how to read animal tracks- the sausage like hooded cobra sand formation, the long streams from the quills of the porcupine. The crack of timber and rustling of tall tree canopies indicates an elephant is feeding and we creep along, single file hoping to get a glimpse of the huge creature. The guide strategizes a plan so that we can surround the animal without getting too close and being detected. As soon as one is spotted by the elephants they will give a warning charge and stomp away. The guide slung his sock filled with ash from the morning campfire to determine the direction of the wind and proceeded up wind. He cautiously beckoned us to crouch and run two by two to track the elephant. At last we found a sheltered camouflaged hiding spot and watched the huge bull tramp through the forest to a small pan (watering hold) where he garously sucked the muddy water up into his trunk and joyously sprayed his warm body with the cool mud. He repeated his pleasurable bath several times and then marched off into the trees.
After one hikes for 4 hours viewing several different ecosystems, the group returns to camp for brunch and showers rigged up with hand filled fabric tanks of waters in the great outdoors. Afternoon is spent resting in the comfortable king size beds with high tea at 330pm. The late afternoon starts off with a game drive and short hike. As the jeep journeyed off the dirt road into the grassland, a mother cheetah was spotted with four cubs (one orphan included) sleeping beneath and acacia tree. The mother was not disturbed as we took pictures and marveled at the amazing sight. Cheetahs have been reintroduced into the preserve and are doing well. They look similar to Leopards but have solid spots, rather than the rosettes of leopards. They are built for speed.
The night is pitch black as we return to camp for dinner. The guides point out the blazing stars in the Southern Constellation: Orion, the Southern Cross, the Dog and the gorgeous Milky Way. We wind through the dark night and spot three honey badgers waddling down the road. The most dramatic moment of this night of drama was coming upon the hundreds of torches and the fire that light up the camp at night. Dinner of salmon and ostrich cooked on the open fire awaited 8 hungry hikers. Tall tales of our bravery defying Mother Nature were the entertainment by the fire as we enjoyed a most thrilling and exciting weekend.
The Bush Camp experience starts with meeting the ranger at the gate of the huge preserve and heading off to the camp deep in the sand forest. After a 25 minute drive in the open air jeep, the driver abruptly stops in the dirt road and announces that we have arrived. No trace of building or man’s intrusions into the bush is apparent until we walk a small path and arrive at the HQ tent for the camp. Couches and bookshelves line the tent and cold glasses of juice greet the visitor. The four tents accommodating 8 guests are located out in the bush with no views of any other tent, just the forest, scrub and bushes of this ecosystem.
Walking Safari Bush Camp day starts at 515am with hot water lugged to each tent and coffee awaiting. By 6am the eight of us (four couples, youngish and oldish) head out on the trail with our two armed guides. Cormorants, kingfishers, darters, and eagles are spotted on the trail. Shy nyala dart into the bush and we pass. Our guides show us how to read animal tracks- the sausage like hooded cobra sand formation, the long streams from the quills of the porcupine. The crack of timber and rustling of tall tree canopies indicates an elephant is feeding and we creep along, single file hoping to get a glimpse of the huge creature. The guide strategizes a plan so that we can surround the animal without getting too close and being detected. As soon as one is spotted by the elephants they will give a warning charge and stomp away. The guide slung his sock filled with ash from the morning campfire to determine the direction of the wind and proceeded up wind. He cautiously beckoned us to crouch and run two by two to track the elephant. At last we found a sheltered camouflaged hiding spot and watched the huge bull tramp through the forest to a small pan (watering hold) where he garously sucked the muddy water up into his trunk and joyously sprayed his warm body with the cool mud. He repeated his pleasurable bath several times and then marched off into the trees.
After one hikes for 4 hours viewing several different ecosystems, the group returns to camp for brunch and showers rigged up with hand filled fabric tanks of waters in the great outdoors. Afternoon is spent resting in the comfortable king size beds with high tea at 330pm. The late afternoon starts off with a game drive and short hike. As the jeep journeyed off the dirt road into the grassland, a mother cheetah was spotted with four cubs (one orphan included) sleeping beneath and acacia tree. The mother was not disturbed as we took pictures and marveled at the amazing sight. Cheetahs have been reintroduced into the preserve and are doing well. They look similar to Leopards but have solid spots, rather than the rosettes of leopards. They are built for speed.
The night is pitch black as we return to camp for dinner. The guides point out the blazing stars in the Southern Constellation: Orion, the Southern Cross, the Dog and the gorgeous Milky Way. We wind through the dark night and spot three honey badgers waddling down the road. The most dramatic moment of this night of drama was coming upon the hundreds of torches and the fire that light up the camp at night. Dinner of salmon and ostrich cooked on the open fire awaited 8 hungry hikers. Tall tales of our bravery defying Mother Nature were the entertainment by the fire as we enjoyed a most thrilling and exciting weekend.
Thursday, April 24, 2008
Life on the Nile
Blog 24 April 08
The Bond’s have been traveling to the far north of Africa to use up the last week of leave allotted by the Peace Corps – a trip to Egypt and a cruise down the Nile. Ironically this “Luxury” vacation was affordable by US standards and not the first choice of two “short timer” volunteers. Initially the plan was to see Victoria Falls, Chobe and Botswana but the prices proved prohibitive. Likewise a trip to Tanzania to see the game migration on the rift. (The cheaper option on the Kenya side is not currently a safe choice).
So, looking at the local newspapers and seeing things as a South African tourist, Egypt popped out as a great holiday and a lifetime dream. As Peace Corps we think in the present and reserved a package deal at the last minute. But what a deal! Air fare, two nights in Cairo, transfers from Cairo to Luxor, cruise on a barge on the Nile from Luxor to Aswan, the reverse and all the sights and tours in between! The cruise was most pleasurable with lovely views of the Nile riverbanks for 200 km and short guided stops to see the temples en route. The weather was Hot Hot but think of Las Vegas- very dry heat. The Valley of the Kings, Esna Lock, Edfu Temple, Aswan Dam, and Philae Temple were simple side trips from the boat which also had many pleasures including Whirling Dervishes and On board guides. Egypt is the opposite end of South Africa but a big allure in that there is little crime and cultural sights too numerous to mention. Fellucas with local fisherman, vendors throwing up Galabria (Eqyptian cotton gowns), green islands with stock grazing on the rich land, locals harvesting wheat with ancient sickles, horsedrawn carts with passengers, and lovely date palms and sand dunes were all part of the everchanging scenery.
Tonight we are back in our home in South Africa where Fall has arrived and frost was on the ground this morning. The Drakensburg Mountains are covered in a solid Seven Minute Frosting of Snow and the shadows are long, even with the sun blazing during the day. Last night as we arrived back at our home, we were thrilled to see the brilliant stars in the sky without cloud cover or any mist that the summer brings. The stars still seem foreign to us but the Milky Way reminds us of home. No water, hot water to greet us and the Load Shedding is back today but the patients were all smiles this morning and a pleasure to assist as we tried beading with red and silver beads and renewed strength for the weeks ahead.
The Bond’s have been traveling to the far north of Africa to use up the last week of leave allotted by the Peace Corps – a trip to Egypt and a cruise down the Nile. Ironically this “Luxury” vacation was affordable by US standards and not the first choice of two “short timer” volunteers. Initially the plan was to see Victoria Falls, Chobe and Botswana but the prices proved prohibitive. Likewise a trip to Tanzania to see the game migration on the rift. (The cheaper option on the Kenya side is not currently a safe choice).
So, looking at the local newspapers and seeing things as a South African tourist, Egypt popped out as a great holiday and a lifetime dream. As Peace Corps we think in the present and reserved a package deal at the last minute. But what a deal! Air fare, two nights in Cairo, transfers from Cairo to Luxor, cruise on a barge on the Nile from Luxor to Aswan, the reverse and all the sights and tours in between! The cruise was most pleasurable with lovely views of the Nile riverbanks for 200 km and short guided stops to see the temples en route. The weather was Hot Hot but think of Las Vegas- very dry heat. The Valley of the Kings, Esna Lock, Edfu Temple, Aswan Dam, and Philae Temple were simple side trips from the boat which also had many pleasures including Whirling Dervishes and On board guides. Egypt is the opposite end of South Africa but a big allure in that there is little crime and cultural sights too numerous to mention. Fellucas with local fisherman, vendors throwing up Galabria (Eqyptian cotton gowns), green islands with stock grazing on the rich land, locals harvesting wheat with ancient sickles, horsedrawn carts with passengers, and lovely date palms and sand dunes were all part of the everchanging scenery.
Tonight we are back in our home in South Africa where Fall has arrived and frost was on the ground this morning. The Drakensburg Mountains are covered in a solid Seven Minute Frosting of Snow and the shadows are long, even with the sun blazing during the day. Last night as we arrived back at our home, we were thrilled to see the brilliant stars in the sky without cloud cover or any mist that the summer brings. The stars still seem foreign to us but the Milky Way reminds us of home. No water, hot water to greet us and the Load Shedding is back today but the patients were all smiles this morning and a pleasure to assist as we tried beading with red and silver beads and renewed strength for the weeks ahead.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Stone Hearts
We have spent the last two weeks high in the mountains of Kwa Zulu Natal at our home in an AIDS hospital, doing work that is needed. Brendon was named the Operations Manager his first day on the job in Sept. 2006. I was posted in the Business office to upgrade administrative procedures and subsequently started the Occupational Therapy Program (Jabule “Happy” Time) for the patients. The work has expanded into new avenues with computer training for staff taking up many hours.
The grant money from the US for purchasing sewing and beading materials has been spent so finding interesting and fun activities for patient’s recreation and handwork has become more challenging. In addition we have been feeling spent, losing enthusiasm and looking forward to going home. An incident a few weeks ago with the disappearance of some money in the office left my heart cold and my bearing brittle toward my coworkers. Is this what I want the hospital staff to remember about me? Theft and crime are very common occurrences here and nothing (no thing) is irreplaceable. Thus “Get over it” has to happen and one needs to be more careful about one’s belongings. My initial reaction, however, was “how do they have the nerve to take from someone who has left their comfortable life in America to help them?” This feeling was arrogance/ pride on my part
and not in the spirit of the Peace Corps or service. In addition, I have become more watchful and careful about distributing the beads and fabric, allocating the daily projects in a very miserly manner to make the materials last. I have to say no to requests for extra beads, and sometimes the “NO” is not in the most courteous manner. A nurse’s aide came into the sewing group this week and asked if I was “Cross” and I cringed that this might be the expectation as materials are depleted and my heart is growing harder.
Today in church the prayer asked God for a “Heart of Flesh” instead of a “Heart of Stone” and a “New Spirit”. So, this is my desire that as we finish our work at Mountain High - we will have softness and kindness instead of coldness and calculation; humility instead of pride. As I cut out the 500th skirt of this 2 year experience, pour out the beads for the Zulu border stitch, set up prizes for the bingo tournament, and attempt to demonstrate American cooking on a hot plate in the Chapel with limited ingredients, I will relish this unique opportunity and convey some of the goodness of the people of America. The Peace Corps tour of duty lasts 2 years for that reason; citizens of developing nations will come to understand America and Americans. Americans are people, warts and all. They sometimes care about the poor, sick, and forgotten peoples of the world but they are imperfect human beings.
We were invited to the home of the director of an NGO last night where we heard about the suffering of all the groups that call South Africa home and the horrendous violent crime that citizens endure on a regular basis. Her concern was that Americans are quick to make snap judgments without understanding the courage it takes to live in this country on a daily basis. Again, our need is for soft hearts and new spirits!
The grant money from the US for purchasing sewing and beading materials has been spent so finding interesting and fun activities for patient’s recreation and handwork has become more challenging. In addition we have been feeling spent, losing enthusiasm and looking forward to going home. An incident a few weeks ago with the disappearance of some money in the office left my heart cold and my bearing brittle toward my coworkers. Is this what I want the hospital staff to remember about me? Theft and crime are very common occurrences here and nothing (no thing) is irreplaceable. Thus “Get over it” has to happen and one needs to be more careful about one’s belongings. My initial reaction, however, was “how do they have the nerve to take from someone who has left their comfortable life in America to help them?” This feeling was arrogance/ pride on my part
and not in the spirit of the Peace Corps or service. In addition, I have become more watchful and careful about distributing the beads and fabric, allocating the daily projects in a very miserly manner to make the materials last. I have to say no to requests for extra beads, and sometimes the “NO” is not in the most courteous manner. A nurse’s aide came into the sewing group this week and asked if I was “Cross” and I cringed that this might be the expectation as materials are depleted and my heart is growing harder.
Today in church the prayer asked God for a “Heart of Flesh” instead of a “Heart of Stone” and a “New Spirit”. So, this is my desire that as we finish our work at Mountain High - we will have softness and kindness instead of coldness and calculation; humility instead of pride. As I cut out the 500th skirt of this 2 year experience, pour out the beads for the Zulu border stitch, set up prizes for the bingo tournament, and attempt to demonstrate American cooking on a hot plate in the Chapel with limited ingredients, I will relish this unique opportunity and convey some of the goodness of the people of America. The Peace Corps tour of duty lasts 2 years for that reason; citizens of developing nations will come to understand America and Americans. Americans are people, warts and all. They sometimes care about the poor, sick, and forgotten peoples of the world but they are imperfect human beings.
We were invited to the home of the director of an NGO last night where we heard about the suffering of all the groups that call South Africa home and the horrendous violent crime that citizens endure on a regular basis. Her concern was that Americans are quick to make snap judgments without understanding the courage it takes to live in this country on a daily basis. Again, our need is for soft hearts and new spirits!
Sunday, April 06, 2008
South African Sharp Sharp
“Howzit, Love” (How are you, friend)? “Just now” (in the immediate future) your “mate” (friend) in South Africa will be going “overseas” (abroad, any country out of SA) after this “nice” (pleasant, delicious, good, expensive, or any other positive expletive) time earning no “bucks” (rand) as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Zululand. We lived in a very "homely" (homey, comfortable) flat (small studio apt). Please “Now, Now” (Immediately) “Borrow me a Pen” (Loan me a Pen) so I can write about this “Lekker” (sweet, wonderful, fun, enjoyable) experience. If I make a mistake I will need a “Rubber” (eraser) to correct the error. “Is It” (Really) are the Bond’s returning to the US? “Shame” (Too bad, what a pity) as they are finally learning to speak English in South Africa. They sure enjoyed the “lekker” “Amasweetie” (candy), “Tea Time” (coffee breaks) and “Biltong” (jerky). “Transport”(transportation), “Robots” (traffic lights) and “Kumbis” (public vans) were more of a challenge with constant increases in the price of “petrol” (gas) but one can always “SMS” (instant message) on a cell phone to “Fetch Me” (please pick me up). If you lived here, one should purchase a “Bakke” (small pick up truck) as they can handle the rough roads better than passenger “motor vehicles” (cars). “Provisions” (food) were hard to come by but every community has a “Tuck Shop” (small convenience store) where Simba chips can be found. The “Festive Season” (Christmas holidays) was very enjoyable but the time for a “Swimming Costume” (bathing suit or trunks) and “tekkies” (running shoes) instead of warm holiday attire and scarves. Anytime, anywhere under any circumstances a “Braai” (barbeque) with “mutton” (lamb) “wors” (sausage) is always welcome and in fact “Braai Day” is a national holiday! When all is well then “Chop Chop”. (Things are “Right”.) If circumstances warrant outspoken complaint, you “Must” (should, might) “Toy Toy” (protest).
So after almost two years the Bond’s have learned that they have a strong, sometime unintelligible American Accent and that they do not know English. Of course it would be better if they learned Zulu in order to serve the AIDS patients and staff at Mountain High Hospital. Hats off to all South Africans who can speak at least three languages and sometimes four or five!
So after almost two years the Bond’s have learned that they have a strong, sometime unintelligible American Accent and that they do not know English. Of course it would be better if they learned Zulu in order to serve the AIDS patients and staff at Mountain High Hospital. Hats off to all South Africans who can speak at least three languages and sometimes four or five!
Wednesday, April 02, 2008
Creature Comforts
Our return to Mountain High Hospital after Easter break brought home two important lessons that all Peace Corps Volunteers must learn; Never get in the shower without looking in all four corners. Lesson two; Always inspect the contents of your toilet before plopping yourself down and letting it happen.
We returned to our South African home at Mountain High Hospital after touring the back roads and small towns of the Cape. I missed the patients, our comfortable cozy flat and the beauty of this mountain site. However, after a week of living with power, water (even hot water) and a rental car it is hard to go back to the challenges of life in rural Africa. Interestingly enough, the discomforts vary from day to day and hour to hour so one is always surprised. We opened the door to our flat and found water and electricity; so far so good. The food in the refrigerator had not rotted and the hot water poured out of the tap like a geyser. I lifted up the toilet lid and shrieked at the first surprise- Mr. Toad was swimming in the toilet bowl with arms flaying and legs hyper extended. I quickly shoved the lid down and called for my US Army Artillery trained husband to take action. His fighting words were “just flush”. The pour soul was flushed back to his home in the pipes that run down the hillside.
We take showers at night because the tap is dry in the mornings and hot water is a scarce as a fast food restaurant in this neck of the woods. The shower is situated in our small kitchen with limited lighting. I stepped in, sorely in need of ablution (a South African word for all bathing and washing activities). A toad jumped up at me from the dark corners of the shower. I screamed and called for my sweet husband to come with our special toad hunting net. South African toilets are shrouded in lace and frou frou which makes for the perfect toad catcher. He found the lace netting decorated with maroon ribbons and grabbed that toad with an amazing expertise. (of course last year toad season yielded approximately 20 hits in our flat with none in our bed, fortunately). With immense gratitude toward the husband of the year, I bravely traipsed back into the shower getting ready for warm water and the comfort of a clean body after a long journey home. EEK, the father toad leaped out at me from the dark corner of the shower! I screamed and my faithful husband returned with our lacy toad catcher, ran to the door of our flat and threw him out into the night with his progeny. So has toad season started? Peace Corps manuals do not explain the true seasons of the year or cycles of experience. However, we are more experienced at dealing with surprises from nature, although old people do not appreciate being surprised, especially after the first cute toad is spotted. The other side of the mountain experience is that there is utter quiet at night, the beautiful birds are returning to devour the guava and pear trees, and the patients are so happy to see us. This is a special place that I am sure we will miss when we return home.
We returned to our South African home at Mountain High Hospital after touring the back roads and small towns of the Cape. I missed the patients, our comfortable cozy flat and the beauty of this mountain site. However, after a week of living with power, water (even hot water) and a rental car it is hard to go back to the challenges of life in rural Africa. Interestingly enough, the discomforts vary from day to day and hour to hour so one is always surprised. We opened the door to our flat and found water and electricity; so far so good. The food in the refrigerator had not rotted and the hot water poured out of the tap like a geyser. I lifted up the toilet lid and shrieked at the first surprise- Mr. Toad was swimming in the toilet bowl with arms flaying and legs hyper extended. I quickly shoved the lid down and called for my US Army Artillery trained husband to take action. His fighting words were “just flush”. The pour soul was flushed back to his home in the pipes that run down the hillside.
We take showers at night because the tap is dry in the mornings and hot water is a scarce as a fast food restaurant in this neck of the woods. The shower is situated in our small kitchen with limited lighting. I stepped in, sorely in need of ablution (a South African word for all bathing and washing activities). A toad jumped up at me from the dark corners of the shower. I screamed and called for my sweet husband to come with our special toad hunting net. South African toilets are shrouded in lace and frou frou which makes for the perfect toad catcher. He found the lace netting decorated with maroon ribbons and grabbed that toad with an amazing expertise. (of course last year toad season yielded approximately 20 hits in our flat with none in our bed, fortunately). With immense gratitude toward the husband of the year, I bravely traipsed back into the shower getting ready for warm water and the comfort of a clean body after a long journey home. EEK, the father toad leaped out at me from the dark corner of the shower! I screamed and my faithful husband returned with our lacy toad catcher, ran to the door of our flat and threw him out into the night with his progeny. So has toad season started? Peace Corps manuals do not explain the true seasons of the year or cycles of experience. However, we are more experienced at dealing with surprises from nature, although old people do not appreciate being surprised, especially after the first cute toad is spotted. The other side of the mountain experience is that there is utter quiet at night, the beautiful birds are returning to devour the guava and pear trees, and the patients are so happy to see us. This is a special place that I am sure we will miss when we return home.
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