Birding Trail beside Natal Spa RiverSunday, May 27, 2007
Coot Fun
Attention is being paid by the US Peace Corps Director and South Africa County Director to the huge pool of potential volunteers represented by the over 50-year-old baby boomers. Brendon and I often tease each other about what class of late middle aged folks we fit into – Are we coots, codgers, geezers, or just plain Old Farts! Likewise for old ladies we have the old bags, dowagers, old bittys and old bats. Some days all categories may fit the wearer. However, whatever our label, the Old Folks (as we are known in the Peace Corps) have numerous skills and resources that may compensate for the lack of energy and enthusiasm manifested by the young. At the beginning of our Peace Corps service the age difference between the more populous 20 year olds and the over 50 year olds created cliques and some separation but as time has gone one the similarities in our experience and hardships have mollified the age differences.
Last week was truly a Coot experience as we joined a trained Bird Watching guide for a hike through the country side near the Natal Spa. We showed up woefully unprepared without binoculars, Sasol’s Birds of South Africa and notebook for recording the sightings. Simon is a Zulu of short stocky build wearing the South African trekker’s togs of two tone khaki shirt and pants, neatly pressed and creased. He discussed the available trails and the common types of birds found in the area. South Africa is home to over 400 species of birds, with many fabulous coloring and shapes that are new to Americans. We set off on the Red Trail which meandered through an exotic gum tree forest to a ridge of the rolling hills around the spa with sightings of the famous river formed from the spring. Simon led us slowly and quietly, looking up at the trees and listening for calls. “Work Harder, Work Harder, Work Harder” was one bird’s call. The Ha De Da Ibis’s swooped above us with their urgent shrieking. The story is that they are afraid of heights, so when flying scream at an alarming pitch. They are quiet when picking for grubs on the ground and beautiful in their large elegant form and beautiful grey and reddish feathers. The guide spotted a Jackie Hangman on a telephone line with white chest and black back. His name comes from his habit of collecting tasty worms and storing them on the sharp barbs of the barbed wire fences. We spotted several weaver birds nests but alas the beautiful yellow weaver birds have flown NORTH for the winter. A true pleasure in South Africa is watching the flocks of black and white martins as they turn in formation against the sun, making beautiful patterns of black and white triangular forms.
The onslaught of winter creeps into all conversations, blogs and center of thought these days. There is nothing that can be done about the cold (except to turn on the ineffective electric space heaters) and dress warmly. The air is clear and dry. The leaves are beginning to turn color. It feels like Thanksgiving in Los Angeles. The local residents walk around and sit in offices with gloves, hats and scarves even though the temperature is only in the low sixties during the day and down into the 30’s at night. We went for a walk in the forest late Friday afternoon and saw nary a goat, cow or child tending the animals-all had been tucked away for the night. During the summer the trail was a parade of children herding the animals or skinny dipping in the pond on the side of the mountain.
I guess I am finally falling into wifely submission as this weekend I agreed to cut Brendon’s hair, a task he has begged me to do for years. We have been in Africa for almost a year and he has faithfully frequented the corner barber shop to get his Number 2 every 2 weeks. The corner barber shop is literal- Bongi sets up a plastic tarp booth on the corner near the taxi rank of our shopping town, hooks up his clippers to a car battery and Voila he is in business. A great hair cut for 6 rand (90 cents). Brendon has been a little squeamish about head lice, in spite of the pink cleaning solution that Bongi dips his combs in prior to each new client. South Africans are very well groomed and this includes frequent hair cuts. However it is not apparent where actual licensed barber shops are located. The last trip to town Brendon invested in clippers and began goading the wife to try hair cutting. Today was the day! He asked me in a very affirmative voice if I would go outside and try out the clippers. If you are wondering about the results remember the admonition-you get what you pay for!
Our trip back from town was uneventful except for gaining insight into the knowledge that all Zulus possess regarding handcrafts and their culture. While waiting for the taxi to leave town, I showed Mr. Zulu (our driver) a straw frame for a beaded bangle bracelet and asked him if he knew where to get the reeds for make the circular frame. He disappeared for a short time and came back with 8 strands of green field grass that he began to weave into rope. Bend one strand a quarter turn and turn-Repeat until a beautiful 8 strand braid is formed. He passed the piece onto me and I finished out the rope. He then started a more complicated pattern with interwoven strands which was too much of a challenge.
We loaded into the taxi and journeyed the beautiful 80 km drive to the Hospital. Near the end of the trip a small boy ran out onto the road with a bag. Mr. Zulu looked at me as asked if I liked birds (izinyoni). I responded in my best Zulu that I like birds. He handed me the plastic bag. I looked inside not understanding what the package had to do with birds and found beautiful layers of honeycomb (izinyosi). Such are the daily misunderstandings with new language and the kindness of drivers. The delicious honeycomb was passed through the taxi with a small treat for all. My painful experience with the bees was forgiven as I tasted the delicious smoky honey right out of the honeycomb and chewed on the beeswax like it was chewing gum. It became clear why the Hospital staff was consumed with retrieving the honey from the roof of the ward last month and putting themselves in danger. What a treat!
Last week was truly a Coot experience as we joined a trained Bird Watching guide for a hike through the country side near the Natal Spa. We showed up woefully unprepared without binoculars, Sasol’s Birds of South Africa and notebook for recording the sightings. Simon is a Zulu of short stocky build wearing the South African trekker’s togs of two tone khaki shirt and pants, neatly pressed and creased. He discussed the available trails and the common types of birds found in the area. South Africa is home to over 400 species of birds, with many fabulous coloring and shapes that are new to Americans. We set off on the Red Trail which meandered through an exotic gum tree forest to a ridge of the rolling hills around the spa with sightings of the famous river formed from the spring. Simon led us slowly and quietly, looking up at the trees and listening for calls. “Work Harder, Work Harder, Work Harder” was one bird’s call. The Ha De Da Ibis’s swooped above us with their urgent shrieking. The story is that they are afraid of heights, so when flying scream at an alarming pitch. They are quiet when picking for grubs on the ground and beautiful in their large elegant form and beautiful grey and reddish feathers. The guide spotted a Jackie Hangman on a telephone line with white chest and black back. His name comes from his habit of collecting tasty worms and storing them on the sharp barbs of the barbed wire fences. We spotted several weaver birds nests but alas the beautiful yellow weaver birds have flown NORTH for the winter. A true pleasure in South Africa is watching the flocks of black and white martins as they turn in formation against the sun, making beautiful patterns of black and white triangular forms.
The onslaught of winter creeps into all conversations, blogs and center of thought these days. There is nothing that can be done about the cold (except to turn on the ineffective electric space heaters) and dress warmly. The air is clear and dry. The leaves are beginning to turn color. It feels like Thanksgiving in Los Angeles. The local residents walk around and sit in offices with gloves, hats and scarves even though the temperature is only in the low sixties during the day and down into the 30’s at night. We went for a walk in the forest late Friday afternoon and saw nary a goat, cow or child tending the animals-all had been tucked away for the night. During the summer the trail was a parade of children herding the animals or skinny dipping in the pond on the side of the mountain.
I guess I am finally falling into wifely submission as this weekend I agreed to cut Brendon’s hair, a task he has begged me to do for years. We have been in Africa for almost a year and he has faithfully frequented the corner barber shop to get his Number 2 every 2 weeks. The corner barber shop is literal- Bongi sets up a plastic tarp booth on the corner near the taxi rank of our shopping town, hooks up his clippers to a car battery and Voila he is in business. A great hair cut for 6 rand (90 cents). Brendon has been a little squeamish about head lice, in spite of the pink cleaning solution that Bongi dips his combs in prior to each new client. South Africans are very well groomed and this includes frequent hair cuts. However it is not apparent where actual licensed barber shops are located. The last trip to town Brendon invested in clippers and began goading the wife to try hair cutting. Today was the day! He asked me in a very affirmative voice if I would go outside and try out the clippers. If you are wondering about the results remember the admonition-you get what you pay for!
Our trip back from town was uneventful except for gaining insight into the knowledge that all Zulus possess regarding handcrafts and their culture. While waiting for the taxi to leave town, I showed Mr. Zulu (our driver) a straw frame for a beaded bangle bracelet and asked him if he knew where to get the reeds for make the circular frame. He disappeared for a short time and came back with 8 strands of green field grass that he began to weave into rope. Bend one strand a quarter turn and turn-Repeat until a beautiful 8 strand braid is formed. He passed the piece onto me and I finished out the rope. He then started a more complicated pattern with interwoven strands which was too much of a challenge.
We loaded into the taxi and journeyed the beautiful 80 km drive to the Hospital. Near the end of the trip a small boy ran out onto the road with a bag. Mr. Zulu looked at me as asked if I liked birds (izinyoni). I responded in my best Zulu that I like birds. He handed me the plastic bag. I looked inside not understanding what the package had to do with birds and found beautiful layers of honeycomb (izinyosi). Such are the daily misunderstandings with new language and the kindness of drivers. The delicious honeycomb was passed through the taxi with a small treat for all. My painful experience with the bees was forgiven as I tasted the delicious smoky honey right out of the honeycomb and chewed on the beeswax like it was chewing gum. It became clear why the Hospital staff was consumed with retrieving the honey from the roof of the ward last month and putting themselves in danger. What a treat!
Saturday, May 19, 2007
Cobbler School and Fashion Show Pics
Fashion Models making their Grand Entrance into Fashion Show May 2007
Shopping Town of Vryheid from Game Preserve on Vryheid Hill
Fashion Show Models and Their Creations-Hats, scarves and Tshirts
Vusi, Mountain High Cobbler Instructor and Students
Patient Models Holding Their Heads High and Seizing the MomentZulu Fashion Show and Cobbler School
The second Mountain High Fashion Show was a big hit with the men and women patient models Dressed to the Nines with their handsewn creations and beadwork. Fifteen of the women planned a grand entrance and danced in two by two led by the queen of the parade, a woman clad in a bright yellow dress leaning on her cane for support. The audience cheered as they watched the women dance in. The Jabule men and women then gathered in front and began to sing. Individual soloists and dancers did their numbers with high kicks and a stomp for drama. Each solo attempt was more inventive than the one before. The theme was Celebrate the Abundant Life-Love Life! For a couple of hours the patients had energy, excitement and smiles on their faces. Most are in their 20’s and 30’s, a time for enjoying parties and fun rather than confinement to a hospital. Their spirit was bright and entertainment great!
This weekend we are at the Natal Spa, a natural hot spring outside our shopping town of Vryheid. This is a great place to visit for those that enjoy soaking in very warm water (only a slight whiff of sulfur rising from the hottest pools.) The irony is the fact that three mornings this week we had no water for showers. On Monday I injured my back carrying heavy bags of fabric and could not bend over. One hour of soaking in the hot water got the kink out-So be careful what you say about health frauds and spas. A few months ago a codirector of an NGO in Ladysmith told us the history of the spa. Her grandmother was herding sheep and stumbled on a natural pool of the warm water. Shortly afterward, the Afrikaans fenced off the spring and prohibited the Zulus from using entering the water. (The spa has a different story of the discovery of the spring, however).
The Men’s Jabule Group has been going well with a consistent core group showing up every day to make fleece hats, scarves, bags, and T shirts to ward of the chill. However, from the start the men have wanted to learn how to make and repair shoes. A hospital employee and I hitched a ride to Nongoma, the headquarters for the Zulu Kingdom and allegedly a great place to buy supplies for making shoes. Our tip was to find Mr. Bond’s dry goods store which would have soles, leather, impala skins, glue and rope. I introduced myself to Mr. Bond himself, an eighty year old patriarch who owns most of the property in town and teased him about being his niece from America. His store was a journey back in time, with shelves of shoes and clothing behind the counter and metal bars protecting the owner. His store had no cobbler supplies but in front of his shop a man was making sandals from old tires. Just the skill the hospital needed! Vusi was eager to chat (wonderful characteristic of all South Africans) and showed us the tires, soles he cut from the tires, and the white wall strips for straps. He agreed to come to the Hospital and teach his craft.
On Monday morning he called and said he was on his way and asked for directions to the Hospital. He had misunderstood that the Hospital was an hour away by taxi and that the last 4 km was a long walk down the dirt road. Vusi was a good sport and arrived just as he promised. Thirty men (and women) plus staff onlookers gathered in the Chapel to learn the tricks of turning throwaway tires into sturdy shoes. First step was to cut the tire apart and make the forms for the soles. He prepared patterns for the sole and leather top, cut the inner sole, glued and tacked the sandal together. Next week he is coming back to teach vinyl straps, impala and whitewall. A trip to the shopping town produced a source for the tires, which cannot be steel belted and need to be very thin so that they can be easily cut by the patients. The owner of a tire shop had a stash behind the store and offered them for free for the taking. Amazing how a stash of discarded tires can make one feel so good!
Shoes are very important to South Africans and no tuck shop (equivalent of 7-11 on a very small scale) is without shoe polish. The Peace Crops training advised that South Africans look at your shoes first and determine your character by the cleanliness and care of your shoes. Peace Corps volunteers were chided for their dirty sneakers and scuffed sandals. The streets have many shoe repair stalls with instant shoe repair. New heel blanks are put on shoes and cut to fit. Hopefully, the men will learn cobbler skills and find a way of using those skills when then go back to their village. Several of the men are enterprising and planning to make fleece hats or scarves for sale.
This weekend we are at the Natal Spa, a natural hot spring outside our shopping town of Vryheid. This is a great place to visit for those that enjoy soaking in very warm water (only a slight whiff of sulfur rising from the hottest pools.) The irony is the fact that three mornings this week we had no water for showers. On Monday I injured my back carrying heavy bags of fabric and could not bend over. One hour of soaking in the hot water got the kink out-So be careful what you say about health frauds and spas. A few months ago a codirector of an NGO in Ladysmith told us the history of the spa. Her grandmother was herding sheep and stumbled on a natural pool of the warm water. Shortly afterward, the Afrikaans fenced off the spring and prohibited the Zulus from using entering the water. (The spa has a different story of the discovery of the spring, however).
The Men’s Jabule Group has been going well with a consistent core group showing up every day to make fleece hats, scarves, bags, and T shirts to ward of the chill. However, from the start the men have wanted to learn how to make and repair shoes. A hospital employee and I hitched a ride to Nongoma, the headquarters for the Zulu Kingdom and allegedly a great place to buy supplies for making shoes. Our tip was to find Mr. Bond’s dry goods store which would have soles, leather, impala skins, glue and rope. I introduced myself to Mr. Bond himself, an eighty year old patriarch who owns most of the property in town and teased him about being his niece from America. His store was a journey back in time, with shelves of shoes and clothing behind the counter and metal bars protecting the owner. His store had no cobbler supplies but in front of his shop a man was making sandals from old tires. Just the skill the hospital needed! Vusi was eager to chat (wonderful characteristic of all South Africans) and showed us the tires, soles he cut from the tires, and the white wall strips for straps. He agreed to come to the Hospital and teach his craft.
On Monday morning he called and said he was on his way and asked for directions to the Hospital. He had misunderstood that the Hospital was an hour away by taxi and that the last 4 km was a long walk down the dirt road. Vusi was a good sport and arrived just as he promised. Thirty men (and women) plus staff onlookers gathered in the Chapel to learn the tricks of turning throwaway tires into sturdy shoes. First step was to cut the tire apart and make the forms for the soles. He prepared patterns for the sole and leather top, cut the inner sole, glued and tacked the sandal together. Next week he is coming back to teach vinyl straps, impala and whitewall. A trip to the shopping town produced a source for the tires, which cannot be steel belted and need to be very thin so that they can be easily cut by the patients. The owner of a tire shop had a stash behind the store and offered them for free for the taking. Amazing how a stash of discarded tires can make one feel so good!
Shoes are very important to South Africans and no tuck shop (equivalent of 7-11 on a very small scale) is without shoe polish. The Peace Crops training advised that South Africans look at your shoes first and determine your character by the cleanliness and care of your shoes. Peace Corps volunteers were chided for their dirty sneakers and scuffed sandals. The streets have many shoe repair stalls with instant shoe repair. New heel blanks are put on shoes and cut to fit. Hopefully, the men will learn cobbler skills and find a way of using those skills when then go back to their village. Several of the men are enterprising and planning to make fleece hats or scarves for sale.
Saturday, May 12, 2007
Ubabas (Adult Men) and their Creations in the Occupational Therapy Program
The men at Mountain High Hospital have been turning out to sew fleece hats and scarves for the cold nights. Here are some of their creations. Each design is unique and they find ways to make them look smart with tassels, fringe, pompoms and a jaunty slant.Durban Beach
Rickshaw drivers are true artists with unique, over the top decor for their carts
North Beach on a quiet day. Reminded me of Santa Monica Bay. Tuesday, May 08, 2007
Umamas and Ubabas-the Mamas and the Papas
Comming back to work from a 5day break in Durban was a 220v volt. Many administrative tasks needed to be done and the two patient groups- the Mamas and the Papas were hankering for their supplies and group entertainment. The big surprise was that the Mamas (uMamas), in our absence, had put together THREE new quilts for future babies born at Mountain High Hospital. The colors were pink, green and purple prints in amazing combinations of color and style fitting for a Zulu prince or princess. Our Durban shopping expedition produced Zulu beads galore to excite any craft craver and yardage of fleece, knits and prints that were limited only by what could be carried the last 4 km in our packs.
The Ubabas (the men’s group) have started to coalesce. Ten to fifteen men rally round and saunter into the chapel to see what Nonhlanhla (my Zulu name meaning Fortune) has to offer for their needs for warmth or comfort or entertainment. The men are rounded up at 930am and show up looking for fleece to make warm hats, socks, or small bags to hold money or cell phones. (Hospital pajamas do not have pockets for personal items). The men are very careful and meticulous about their sewing. They are interested in creating strong, useful items that will serve them well as patients and their discharge. They are also interested in style. 3 Meters of grey, black and red fleece was cut into hats and scarves for the men. The sewing was careful and the designs truly individual as they personalized each item with fringe, pom poms, a jaunty slant or cuff at the bottom. The hospital grounds are filled with men in their snappy attire. After all of the fleece was gone, they experimented with cell phone bags (Almost every African has a cell phone), larger bags for shaving gear, even larger bags to hold personal possessions, patchwork quilts in Zulu fabric and beading to decorate the bags. The men are stoic when favored materials are used up. (The women show more expression and disappointment). The men’s group starts off with the same format as the women’s- a prayer and a song, except that the young chaplain is available to engage the men. Expectations are high for the promised shoe making program which will start soon. Shoe sizes have been taken. Early scouting trips for materials were disappointing but this week the Zulu kingdom headquarters of Nongoma will be foraged to find the necessary soles and materials.
The Umamas (makotis-wives) are creating beautiful bead and clothing designs. The clothes are hand sewn from fabric remnants from a shop that specializes in South African fabrics. The 20 women gather to see who will pick the number one ticket from the hat each day, after the prayer and song. That makoti (wife) or entombi (young girl) selects what sewing or craft project she would like from the assortment of materials available for the day. Of course now the problem is that he occupational therapy program is very successful, and the limitations of materials and transport to this remote community limit this abundant approach. So the trick now is to design a realistic program for each day of a two month cycle, taking into account the abilities of the patients, to make materials stretch over the next year of the grant. The added job is to try to find a way of teaching new skills to every patient that participates and can then take the skills back to the village to teach other persons or market their new skills. Two sewing machines will be purchased in the next few weeks to teach machine sewing skills to the women.
The Ubabas and Umamas have been so prolific in their creations and industry that it is time again to put on a Fashion Show so on May 18 the Second Mountain High Fashion Show will be held to highlight the creativity of the patients at Mountain High Hospital and Positive Living for All. Please Come and Join the Fun! Promise to publish some great pic.
Last Saturday was a Fashion Show of a different bent. The local hospice put on their annual fashion show fundraiser and our attendance and voyeurism embarked on another view of rural South Africa. The Hospice in town is housed in a residential neighborhood with a beautiful backyard. Each supporting group had their own table. We walked in unawares and found an empty table next to a buffet table laden with spice cakes, scones, quiches, and savory tarts. Soon a foursome of funloving gals joined our table and we exchanged stories of life after the midway point. Some stories were parallel as a grandmother has a granddaughter at UCLA and children in Irvine. Some stories were harder to understand as the women discussed their concerns about crime in the new South Africa. At times the conversation seemed very familiar and comforting, especially when discussing the great sweets (candy to Americans, lekker to Afrikaans). We finally felt a bond with a local group albeit only on the basis of sugar highs from the great South African sweet industry. In other discussion we like we were from the moon with no insight as to local culture, custom, current events or their experiences. However, it was fun to be included in a group and to join the ladies at a local restaurant for a drink after the amazing array of fashions were presented. This is a very smartly turned out country and the designers put their best efforts into creating fabulous gowns with layers of silk, tulle, ruffles and beads. I whispered to one of our table mates that I loved the gowns but wondered where all the great parties were happening where one could wear the elaborate concoctions.
The Ubabas (the men’s group) have started to coalesce. Ten to fifteen men rally round and saunter into the chapel to see what Nonhlanhla (my Zulu name meaning Fortune) has to offer for their needs for warmth or comfort or entertainment. The men are rounded up at 930am and show up looking for fleece to make warm hats, socks, or small bags to hold money or cell phones. (Hospital pajamas do not have pockets for personal items). The men are very careful and meticulous about their sewing. They are interested in creating strong, useful items that will serve them well as patients and their discharge. They are also interested in style. 3 Meters of grey, black and red fleece was cut into hats and scarves for the men. The sewing was careful and the designs truly individual as they personalized each item with fringe, pom poms, a jaunty slant or cuff at the bottom. The hospital grounds are filled with men in their snappy attire. After all of the fleece was gone, they experimented with cell phone bags (Almost every African has a cell phone), larger bags for shaving gear, even larger bags to hold personal possessions, patchwork quilts in Zulu fabric and beading to decorate the bags. The men are stoic when favored materials are used up. (The women show more expression and disappointment). The men’s group starts off with the same format as the women’s- a prayer and a song, except that the young chaplain is available to engage the men. Expectations are high for the promised shoe making program which will start soon. Shoe sizes have been taken. Early scouting trips for materials were disappointing but this week the Zulu kingdom headquarters of Nongoma will be foraged to find the necessary soles and materials.
The Umamas (makotis-wives) are creating beautiful bead and clothing designs. The clothes are hand sewn from fabric remnants from a shop that specializes in South African fabrics. The 20 women gather to see who will pick the number one ticket from the hat each day, after the prayer and song. That makoti (wife) or entombi (young girl) selects what sewing or craft project she would like from the assortment of materials available for the day. Of course now the problem is that he occupational therapy program is very successful, and the limitations of materials and transport to this remote community limit this abundant approach. So the trick now is to design a realistic program for each day of a two month cycle, taking into account the abilities of the patients, to make materials stretch over the next year of the grant. The added job is to try to find a way of teaching new skills to every patient that participates and can then take the skills back to the village to teach other persons or market their new skills. Two sewing machines will be purchased in the next few weeks to teach machine sewing skills to the women.
The Ubabas and Umamas have been so prolific in their creations and industry that it is time again to put on a Fashion Show so on May 18 the Second Mountain High Fashion Show will be held to highlight the creativity of the patients at Mountain High Hospital and Positive Living for All. Please Come and Join the Fun! Promise to publish some great pic.
Last Saturday was a Fashion Show of a different bent. The local hospice put on their annual fashion show fundraiser and our attendance and voyeurism embarked on another view of rural South Africa. The Hospice in town is housed in a residential neighborhood with a beautiful backyard. Each supporting group had their own table. We walked in unawares and found an empty table next to a buffet table laden with spice cakes, scones, quiches, and savory tarts. Soon a foursome of funloving gals joined our table and we exchanged stories of life after the midway point. Some stories were parallel as a grandmother has a granddaughter at UCLA and children in Irvine. Some stories were harder to understand as the women discussed their concerns about crime in the new South Africa. At times the conversation seemed very familiar and comforting, especially when discussing the great sweets (candy to Americans, lekker to Afrikaans). We finally felt a bond with a local group albeit only on the basis of sugar highs from the great South African sweet industry. In other discussion we like we were from the moon with no insight as to local culture, custom, current events or their experiences. However, it was fun to be included in a group and to join the ladies at a local restaurant for a drink after the amazing array of fashions were presented. This is a very smartly turned out country and the designers put their best efforts into creating fabulous gowns with layers of silk, tulle, ruffles and beads. I whispered to one of our table mates that I loved the gowns but wondered where all the great parties were happening where one could wear the elaborate concoctions.
Tuesday, May 01, 2007
Blurrbs from Durbs
Today we listened to the sounds of Heaven at a choral competition in the City Hall in Durban. Community choirs, university choral groups and long established choirs competed for the provincial music title here in the cultural capital of KwaZuluNatal. This is what makes a city – serendipity and cultural events that draw the populace, entertain, and create an exciting, competitive atmosphere. As we walked the City streets, buses of red, cream, crimson, and white satined gowned women and tuxedoed men unloaded in front of the old City Hall (a moldy version of Greek Revival from Belfast, Ireland). Sniffing an event about to begin, we made inquiries and discovered that the provincial Choir Festival Competition was about to start. We jumped at the chance to hear some live music, paid the 20 rand (3 dollars) for tickets and entered the beautiful hall with the massive organ pipes holding center stage. The choir festival reminded me of marching band field shows in the US-the participants playing with their hair, looking around, smoothing their dresses until their choir director walks out on the stage, bows and turns to lead them. Then the amateurs turn into dedicated professionals as the individuals become one and sing from their soul. Their unpretentious faces took on the look of intensity, passion and serious business. The a capella singing and multiple harmonies were gorgeous to country folk looking for city entertainment. A Hadyn cantata piece was followed by a classical African composition with Zulu words. The finale was choir’s choice of their best. One choir selected a Zulu piece with numerous clicks so that not only did the choir have to stay in tune and on time but the clicks all had to occur simultaneously. Half time speech was given by the daughter of Nobel Peace Prize Albert Luthuli, who stated that her father had found the time to lead choirs and that the music represented the best of the new South Africa. I thought about all of the choir teachers at St. Peters by the Sea and public schools who worked so hard to give the gift of music to my children (without thanks) and the pleasure and joy that the experience had given our whole family.
This weekend marked our first trip to Durban and we are having a fine time!! Tales of muggings on the city streets and crowded beaches have kept us at a distance but this 5 day weekend (started with Freedom day on the 27th and ends with Workers Day on the 1st) seemed like the time to explore our closest city and scout out Zulu beading bargains for the patient occupational therapy program at Mountain High Hospital. Durban is not as chic or first world as Cape Town but it has its own charms. The climate is tropical and the gardens are endowed with blooming flowers, ferns, bananas, and palms in the humid atmosphere. The botanical garden is free and loaded with cycads, prehistoric plants that loom like trees. Along the beach, Zulu rickshaw drivers hold their own competitions for the most extravagant outlandish rickshaw décor. The carnival spirit at the beach is a combination of Phuket and Venice Beach with the bay looking like Santa Monica Bay, causing a twinge of homesickness. The flat city center is ringed with hilly, pleasant residential neighborhoods with outdoor cafes, gardens, small b and b’s and beautiful views of the harbor and ocean surf. Lunch beckoned at the “Taco Zulu” the first taste of Mexican food since we left the US 10 months ago. Simple burritos and salsa never tasted so delicious.
Freedom Day, April 27, marks the beginning of the new Democracy in South Africa – in1994 everyone turned out the vote and a new country was born. Today, Sunday, April 29. A minister at a church in Durban discussed his views on the meaning of Freedom in South Africa. He described training monitors in 1994 in anticipation that there could be a blood bath on election day. He also described the expectations of the liberated people- hopes for a matric (high school diploma) , a job and a house. Thirteen years later the new democracy is still trying to meet these expectations as well as more basic needs such as water and electricity for rural areas. The minister described true freedom as casting off the chains of grievances, grudges, and hatred and putting on love for all people.
The real find of the weekend was the Zulu bead emporium with unbelievable prices and selection. Back in our shopping town of Vryheid, we had been told about the wonders of a shop called Everlasting in Durban where every imaginable gift or craft item could be obtained at less than wholesale prices. We trudged along and found the store, which was located across from a hotel advertising a room for R69 a couple and R129 for overnight. The entrance to Everlasting was a two story cement stairwell. At the top of the stairs, a metal detector screened for weapons. From there one is directed to a bank of lockers with detachable keys for bag storage. After roving dozens of aisles in this monolith devoted to toys, hair pieces, party favors, artificial flowers, someone directed me to the bead department. Every color, style, size, shape, of bead was displayed – metallic, pearlized, glass, plastic, pastels, primary colors, and all in bulk quantities. The choices were too many and the journey home with the heavy beads to onerous Should I keep the bag of hot pink 2 mm glass beads for those young girls that love pink? What about the men who are coming at 930am to their own Jabule group and want real Zulu beads in orange, green, purple and black.
The gathering of the men this week was another serendipity event. The last few weeks the women’s Jabule has had an occasional drop-in male patient but on Monday 8 men came to the Hospital Business office and requested fleece to make hats for the cold nights on the mountain. I gathered up the fabric, called the Chaplain to assist and led the now 12 men into the chapel to begin a formalized men’s handcraft group. I cut fleece hats for them and they requested scarves as well. The fleece was depleted fairly quickly but there is always another trip to town to buy what they need. A Hospital employee has promised to teach the males shoe repair and construction so in a few weeks when the Peace Corps grant money has arrived, we will buy soles for each male patient and teach them how to make a simple sandal. Many of the men do not have shoes or socks of any kind.
Shoe repair and cobbler skills are desired by the men. Unemployment is very high so shoes are a luxury for many men. They want to make their own shoes and learn to repair shoes. Several stores in town sell soles and materials to construct simple sandals
Exciting news this week!! First a young woman delivered a baby on Tuesday and the Jabule quilt was given to her for the new baby. On Wed. I announced to the 18 women in the handwork group that we would start a new quilt for the next baby that is born to replace the one given to the young mother. There were a few anxious looks when I handed out 10 fabric squares to each woman and asked her to sew the squares together to make a row for the new quilt. By Thursday most of the women had sewn their 10 squares together and were ready to assemble the whole quilt together.
Brendon got word from the Peace Corps that his grant application for the AIDs orphans and vulnerable children Psycho Social Support Camp has been approved and we will be assisting the Hospital Administrator in running a camp in July as a pilot project. You are all invited to come and help. Blessings are multiplying at Mountain High and opportunities seem to pop up daily
This weekend marked our first trip to Durban and we are having a fine time!! Tales of muggings on the city streets and crowded beaches have kept us at a distance but this 5 day weekend (started with Freedom day on the 27th and ends with Workers Day on the 1st) seemed like the time to explore our closest city and scout out Zulu beading bargains for the patient occupational therapy program at Mountain High Hospital. Durban is not as chic or first world as Cape Town but it has its own charms. The climate is tropical and the gardens are endowed with blooming flowers, ferns, bananas, and palms in the humid atmosphere. The botanical garden is free and loaded with cycads, prehistoric plants that loom like trees. Along the beach, Zulu rickshaw drivers hold their own competitions for the most extravagant outlandish rickshaw décor. The carnival spirit at the beach is a combination of Phuket and Venice Beach with the bay looking like Santa Monica Bay, causing a twinge of homesickness. The flat city center is ringed with hilly, pleasant residential neighborhoods with outdoor cafes, gardens, small b and b’s and beautiful views of the harbor and ocean surf. Lunch beckoned at the “Taco Zulu” the first taste of Mexican food since we left the US 10 months ago. Simple burritos and salsa never tasted so delicious.
Freedom Day, April 27, marks the beginning of the new Democracy in South Africa – in1994 everyone turned out the vote and a new country was born. Today, Sunday, April 29. A minister at a church in Durban discussed his views on the meaning of Freedom in South Africa. He described training monitors in 1994 in anticipation that there could be a blood bath on election day. He also described the expectations of the liberated people- hopes for a matric (high school diploma) , a job and a house. Thirteen years later the new democracy is still trying to meet these expectations as well as more basic needs such as water and electricity for rural areas. The minister described true freedom as casting off the chains of grievances, grudges, and hatred and putting on love for all people.
The real find of the weekend was the Zulu bead emporium with unbelievable prices and selection. Back in our shopping town of Vryheid, we had been told about the wonders of a shop called Everlasting in Durban where every imaginable gift or craft item could be obtained at less than wholesale prices. We trudged along and found the store, which was located across from a hotel advertising a room for R69 a couple and R129 for overnight. The entrance to Everlasting was a two story cement stairwell. At the top of the stairs, a metal detector screened for weapons. From there one is directed to a bank of lockers with detachable keys for bag storage. After roving dozens of aisles in this monolith devoted to toys, hair pieces, party favors, artificial flowers, someone directed me to the bead department. Every color, style, size, shape, of bead was displayed – metallic, pearlized, glass, plastic, pastels, primary colors, and all in bulk quantities. The choices were too many and the journey home with the heavy beads to onerous Should I keep the bag of hot pink 2 mm glass beads for those young girls that love pink? What about the men who are coming at 930am to their own Jabule group and want real Zulu beads in orange, green, purple and black.
The gathering of the men this week was another serendipity event. The last few weeks the women’s Jabule has had an occasional drop-in male patient but on Monday 8 men came to the Hospital Business office and requested fleece to make hats for the cold nights on the mountain. I gathered up the fabric, called the Chaplain to assist and led the now 12 men into the chapel to begin a formalized men’s handcraft group. I cut fleece hats for them and they requested scarves as well. The fleece was depleted fairly quickly but there is always another trip to town to buy what they need. A Hospital employee has promised to teach the males shoe repair and construction so in a few weeks when the Peace Corps grant money has arrived, we will buy soles for each male patient and teach them how to make a simple sandal. Many of the men do not have shoes or socks of any kind.
Shoe repair and cobbler skills are desired by the men. Unemployment is very high so shoes are a luxury for many men. They want to make their own shoes and learn to repair shoes. Several stores in town sell soles and materials to construct simple sandals
Exciting news this week!! First a young woman delivered a baby on Tuesday and the Jabule quilt was given to her for the new baby. On Wed. I announced to the 18 women in the handwork group that we would start a new quilt for the next baby that is born to replace the one given to the young mother. There were a few anxious looks when I handed out 10 fabric squares to each woman and asked her to sew the squares together to make a row for the new quilt. By Thursday most of the women had sewn their 10 squares together and were ready to assemble the whole quilt together.
Brendon got word from the Peace Corps that his grant application for the AIDs orphans and vulnerable children Psycho Social Support Camp has been approved and we will be assisting the Hospital Administrator in running a camp in July as a pilot project. You are all invited to come and help. Blessings are multiplying at Mountain High and opportunities seem to pop up daily
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