Saturday, February 24, 2007
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Mountain High Forest Delights
The trip back from Kruger National Park and Peace Corps Training to our volunteer site at a TB/AIDS hospital in the mountains of Kwa Zulu Natal was harder psychologically than expected. Perhaps two weeks is too long to be away from a Peace Corps volunteer site and there is the temptation to forget the true purpose for coming to South Africa. The rental car was turned in and we faced the long walk across the taxi rank loaded with packs, luggage and some anxiety. Taxi ranks cover an entire city block and consist of thousands of people milling around with taxi vans heading in every direction, buses, and vendors trying to sell the travelers bags of chips, fruit, cell phone covers, underwear, cold drinks, clothes pin and every other imaginable household item. We found the right bus with no difficulty and began to enjoy greeting the other passengers and being part of the scene. The pleasure of Africa is its people and their extraordinary effort to include you as one of them. Lesson learned, however, bring no more than a small grocery bag and your traveling pleasure will greatly increase.
After two weeks away from the hospital and patients, it was time to return to our duties. So when Monday morning rolled around it was a pleasure to greet the patients and staff and tell them about the fabulous sights of their country and inquire about their well being. They were genuinely glad to see us and we were glad to see them and get back to work. They had many requests for sewing and handwork supplies and seemed eager to start new projects. A few patients in the sewing group had declined and were sent to the nonambulatory wards but most seemed stronger and more articulate about their needs, wants and goals for the future.
Due to our routine of spending the weekends in town for shopping, phone calls home, internet access and church, we have not fully explored the gorgeous mountain site for the hospital which is a wilderness preserve and indigenous forest home to 300 birds, baboons and waterfalls. So the last few Sundays at Mountain High, we set out on hikes to enjoy the bounty. This Sunday was spent hiking from our Mountain High home to a shrine and tea plantation in the nearby forest. We hoped that the hike to the tea plantation and shrine was manageable but we had no map, a mild day turned into a torrential storm and the 7 mile return was shrouded in dense fog. I am sure the views from the shrine are gorgeous but they will have to wait for a clear day. The tea plantation held more interest than the fog covered shrine. Tea bushes were overgrown and intertwined with lovely red and green passion fruit vines. A canopy of palms bearing red fruit outlined the tea bushes with a festive tropical look. No one has worked at the tea plantation recently due to a labor dispute but the miles of tea bushes beg for someone to care for them. No surprise when the office complex for the Tea Plantation housed a “Tea Room”. Tea time is a sacred rite in South Africa when all work stops at 10am for the required cup of tea, biscuit and social exchange. My coworkers are astounded when I tell them that coffee breaks in America have fallen into the same dust bin as Christmas bonuses, and 8 hour work days.
The hike last month to the wilderness preserve in the indigenous forest was truly an adventure. After walking down the dirt and rock road to the tar road, we walked for 2 km to a sign for the Ngome Indigenous Forest and Bee Station. We walked down the road to the forestry station which consisted of 7 homes for the foresters and offices. Signs warned that trespassing was forbidden without permits from the Forestry Office (which was closed). We finally located the forester on duty and he showed us the trail and told us to enjoy ourselves. We then entered the beautiful indigenous forest with canopies of trees overhead, lovely orchards and tropical flowers, carpets of ferns next to waterfalls and beautiful calls from birds. KwaZuluNatal is covered with planted forests of pine and gum but the birds and wildlife prefer indigenous forests. The planted forests are beautiful to walk through but are devoid of the sounds of life. We passed no one on the trail in the forest but got lost and hiked 12 miles instead of the 6 we had planned. The hoped for loop trail only carried us further and further into the 40 miles of trail in the wilderness passing by the refuge of a Zulu warrior. At last we gave up and returned the way we had come, fording the beautiful creeks and enjoying the bird calls. Finally a few km from the entrance two baboons and a baby were spotted on the track. They watched us intently and then retreated into the bush. A little farther up three more baboons came out to enjoy the day. They were also quite shy. We had been warned not to throw rocks at the baboons as they pick up the rocks and return the favor. Truly a pleasurable day in the woods!
After two weeks away from the hospital and patients, it was time to return to our duties. So when Monday morning rolled around it was a pleasure to greet the patients and staff and tell them about the fabulous sights of their country and inquire about their well being. They were genuinely glad to see us and we were glad to see them and get back to work. They had many requests for sewing and handwork supplies and seemed eager to start new projects. A few patients in the sewing group had declined and were sent to the nonambulatory wards but most seemed stronger and more articulate about their needs, wants and goals for the future.
Due to our routine of spending the weekends in town for shopping, phone calls home, internet access and church, we have not fully explored the gorgeous mountain site for the hospital which is a wilderness preserve and indigenous forest home to 300 birds, baboons and waterfalls. So the last few Sundays at Mountain High, we set out on hikes to enjoy the bounty. This Sunday was spent hiking from our Mountain High home to a shrine and tea plantation in the nearby forest. We hoped that the hike to the tea plantation and shrine was manageable but we had no map, a mild day turned into a torrential storm and the 7 mile return was shrouded in dense fog. I am sure the views from the shrine are gorgeous but they will have to wait for a clear day. The tea plantation held more interest than the fog covered shrine. Tea bushes were overgrown and intertwined with lovely red and green passion fruit vines. A canopy of palms bearing red fruit outlined the tea bushes with a festive tropical look. No one has worked at the tea plantation recently due to a labor dispute but the miles of tea bushes beg for someone to care for them. No surprise when the office complex for the Tea Plantation housed a “Tea Room”. Tea time is a sacred rite in South Africa when all work stops at 10am for the required cup of tea, biscuit and social exchange. My coworkers are astounded when I tell them that coffee breaks in America have fallen into the same dust bin as Christmas bonuses, and 8 hour work days.
The hike last month to the wilderness preserve in the indigenous forest was truly an adventure. After walking down the dirt and rock road to the tar road, we walked for 2 km to a sign for the Ngome Indigenous Forest and Bee Station. We walked down the road to the forestry station which consisted of 7 homes for the foresters and offices. Signs warned that trespassing was forbidden without permits from the Forestry Office (which was closed). We finally located the forester on duty and he showed us the trail and told us to enjoy ourselves. We then entered the beautiful indigenous forest with canopies of trees overhead, lovely orchards and tropical flowers, carpets of ferns next to waterfalls and beautiful calls from birds. KwaZuluNatal is covered with planted forests of pine and gum but the birds and wildlife prefer indigenous forests. The planted forests are beautiful to walk through but are devoid of the sounds of life. We passed no one on the trail in the forest but got lost and hiked 12 miles instead of the 6 we had planned. The hoped for loop trail only carried us further and further into the 40 miles of trail in the wilderness passing by the refuge of a Zulu warrior. At last we gave up and returned the way we had come, fording the beautiful creeks and enjoying the bird calls. Finally a few km from the entrance two baboons and a baby were spotted on the track. They watched us intently and then retreated into the bush. A little farther up three more baboons came out to enjoy the day. They were also quite shy. We had been warned not to throw rocks at the baboons as they pick up the rocks and return the favor. Truly a pleasurable day in the woods!
Saturday, February 10, 2007
Training RoundUp and Kruger Game Sighting
I've been a bit tardy in my weekly blogs due to Peace Corps training (10 days) coupled with a quick trip to Kruger National Park, but am now back at Mountain High Hospital trying to process all of the inputs of the last few days and get ready for the work to be done here.
Peace Corps Inservice Training was a chance to reconnect with the other 30 volunteers from the original capacity building NGO group, learn some new skills-i.e. Zulu and project planning, and journey back to the first world to get a perspective on our Peace Corps experience. The ten days of training had plenty of content and lots of laughs as we retold stories of misunderstandings, misinformation and mistakes. Plus there was plenty of do-gooder tales, missions gone right and wrong, boredom/overwork, and the wrong/right fit for assignments. The volunteers had their chance to complain about unmet expectations and their NGOs voiced concerns about the sloppy Americans with their dirty sneakers and unmade beds. The chance to share experiences made me realize that life in the Peace Corps is truly unique for every person-a mix of personality, placement, country, assignment and serendipity. I also realized that the Bonds hit the jackpot with the work at Mountain High in terms of interest, enjoyment, utilization of skills, NGO need’s assessment, and personal fulfillment. Will the honeymoon last? Hope so! A new realization hit that maybe the most remote rural assignment in South Africa might be the greatest gift of all as the numerous concerns about personal safety and urban hazards in the taxi renks were a concern for many peace corps volunteers.
After our Christmas tour through five of the pristine game preserves in Kwa Zulu Natal (Ithala, Imfolozi, St. Lucia, Mkuze, and Phongolo) we were prepared to be disappointed in the granddaddy of national parks devoted to animal conservation, Kruger National Park. One’s mental picture of Kruger is Yosemite National Park on a crowded summer day with waits to enter the park, smog in the valley from the cars and campfires, and crowds crowing at the waterfalls and bears. Kruger was not that kind of experience and deserves its renowned reputation. The Park is very large, uncrowded with many paved and dirt roads inviting exploration. Friends have asked how long one has to wait to view one of the Big Five (lions, leopards, cape buffalo, rhino, and elephants). In fact, one does not wait to see the animals. Rather, the voyeur sets out in a vehicle and leisurely drives the scenic roads to see what turns up. This trip included a pride of lions stalking the dirt road near the camp looking for prey at dusk, elephants with their young feeding on the foliage, annoyed elephant interrupted chewing amarula fruit and giving warning by breaking a branch in front of the vehicle, rhinos scratching what itched on fallen logs 20 feet away, and herds of cape buffalo glancing menacingly at the viewers. (Cape buffalo are known as “Dagger Boys” due to their unpredictable behavior). Sightings of leopards and cheetahs are more rare but what is truly enjoyable is watching the non-big five herds and their meanderings-giraffes with their young feasting on tall trees, the interesting silhouettes of the park which continue to the horizon in all directions, the grazing antelope (impalas, nyalas, and waterbuck) and the entertainment sections provided by monkeys and baboons.
Kruger has accommodations for every category of tourist. We chose the self-catering rondavals with thatched roof, outdoor kitchen and natural rock pool nearby. Unfortunately we did not read the warnings about storing food properly in the outdoor kitchen and found remnants of our carefully selected granola, cheese sticks and crackers scattered all over the porch when we returned from a game drive the first day. Some very happy monkeys were spotted nearby. The wart hogs and impala lazing in front of the rondaval did not seem interested in people food, however, and were immensely pleasurable to watch as they were in constant motion yet content to enjoy the warm afternoon. Likewise, the birds in this remarkable place. One suspects that everyone who travels here becomes a birder as the temptation is too great and the pleasure too much to ignore the beauty- sights and sounds of the 400 species of birds in South Africa. All are new to Americans and are visual and aural delights. Kruger was filled with iridescent purple-winged birds. The night drive manifested hundreds of yellowed-eyed owls guarding the road as we passed along. The night has a thousand eyes and they are all yellow! Pretoria yielded an amazing red headed black speckled bird with black ring around the neck and grey body as we bird watched from the garden in the B and B two weeks ago before transport to training.
Tonight we are back in our one room flat at Mountain High Hospital. The day we left for training, the electricity was out and the water pump had died (again). The Hospital seems like home and we are glad to be back to do the work we have come to do. Don t worry that we have left our animal friends behind. Toads have moved into our flat unawares and the Bonds will rise up to the task of removing all amphibians from their humble abode before the night is over.
Peace Corps Inservice Training was a chance to reconnect with the other 30 volunteers from the original capacity building NGO group, learn some new skills-i.e. Zulu and project planning, and journey back to the first world to get a perspective on our Peace Corps experience. The ten days of training had plenty of content and lots of laughs as we retold stories of misunderstandings, misinformation and mistakes. Plus there was plenty of do-gooder tales, missions gone right and wrong, boredom/overwork, and the wrong/right fit for assignments. The volunteers had their chance to complain about unmet expectations and their NGOs voiced concerns about the sloppy Americans with their dirty sneakers and unmade beds. The chance to share experiences made me realize that life in the Peace Corps is truly unique for every person-a mix of personality, placement, country, assignment and serendipity. I also realized that the Bonds hit the jackpot with the work at Mountain High in terms of interest, enjoyment, utilization of skills, NGO need’s assessment, and personal fulfillment. Will the honeymoon last? Hope so! A new realization hit that maybe the most remote rural assignment in South Africa might be the greatest gift of all as the numerous concerns about personal safety and urban hazards in the taxi renks were a concern for many peace corps volunteers.
After our Christmas tour through five of the pristine game preserves in Kwa Zulu Natal (Ithala, Imfolozi, St. Lucia, Mkuze, and Phongolo) we were prepared to be disappointed in the granddaddy of national parks devoted to animal conservation, Kruger National Park. One’s mental picture of Kruger is Yosemite National Park on a crowded summer day with waits to enter the park, smog in the valley from the cars and campfires, and crowds crowing at the waterfalls and bears. Kruger was not that kind of experience and deserves its renowned reputation. The Park is very large, uncrowded with many paved and dirt roads inviting exploration. Friends have asked how long one has to wait to view one of the Big Five (lions, leopards, cape buffalo, rhino, and elephants). In fact, one does not wait to see the animals. Rather, the voyeur sets out in a vehicle and leisurely drives the scenic roads to see what turns up. This trip included a pride of lions stalking the dirt road near the camp looking for prey at dusk, elephants with their young feeding on the foliage, annoyed elephant interrupted chewing amarula fruit and giving warning by breaking a branch in front of the vehicle, rhinos scratching what itched on fallen logs 20 feet away, and herds of cape buffalo glancing menacingly at the viewers. (Cape buffalo are known as “Dagger Boys” due to their unpredictable behavior). Sightings of leopards and cheetahs are more rare but what is truly enjoyable is watching the non-big five herds and their meanderings-giraffes with their young feasting on tall trees, the interesting silhouettes of the park which continue to the horizon in all directions, the grazing antelope (impalas, nyalas, and waterbuck) and the entertainment sections provided by monkeys and baboons.
Kruger has accommodations for every category of tourist. We chose the self-catering rondavals with thatched roof, outdoor kitchen and natural rock pool nearby. Unfortunately we did not read the warnings about storing food properly in the outdoor kitchen and found remnants of our carefully selected granola, cheese sticks and crackers scattered all over the porch when we returned from a game drive the first day. Some very happy monkeys were spotted nearby. The wart hogs and impala lazing in front of the rondaval did not seem interested in people food, however, and were immensely pleasurable to watch as they were in constant motion yet content to enjoy the warm afternoon. Likewise, the birds in this remarkable place. One suspects that everyone who travels here becomes a birder as the temptation is too great and the pleasure too much to ignore the beauty- sights and sounds of the 400 species of birds in South Africa. All are new to Americans and are visual and aural delights. Kruger was filled with iridescent purple-winged birds. The night drive manifested hundreds of yellowed-eyed owls guarding the road as we passed along. The night has a thousand eyes and they are all yellow! Pretoria yielded an amazing red headed black speckled bird with black ring around the neck and grey body as we bird watched from the garden in the B and B two weeks ago before transport to training.
Tonight we are back in our one room flat at Mountain High Hospital. The day we left for training, the electricity was out and the water pump had died (again). The Hospital seems like home and we are glad to be back to do the work we have come to do. Don t worry that we have left our animal friends behind. Toads have moved into our flat unawares and the Bonds will rise up to the task of removing all amphibians from their humble abode before the night is over.
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