This week restored my faith in humanity and South Africa. After returning to Mountain High Hospital last Sunday afternoon from a weekend in our shopping town, Brendon noticed that his wallet was missing. Mentally we retraced our steps from lunch, to the back row of the taxi where we were squashed with four passengers for the ride up the mountain, to our flat, and finally out back for a haircut. The last sighting was at the restaurant. Monday, Brendon called the small restaurant and inquired about the wallet but none had been found. Dismay set in as the wallet contained his California driver’s license and credit cards, plus a small amount of rand. (We learned after the Thanksgiving mugging to never carry around much money). Ugh! No more driving in South Africa as it would be impossible to get a replacement without returning to California. Driving is dangerous in South Africa but a true pleasure and a necessity if one wants to visit the national parks or see the fabulous African terrain, flora and fauna. The Peace Corps allows volunteers to rent cars when they are on leave. (The Bonds are not ones to stay at home when Vic Falls, Botswana, Namibia, and the Cape beckon). Thus far I have been afraid to drive on the left and worried that I cannot undo 40 years of “Stay Right”. A further complication occurred on the weekend when we went to the ATM to withdraw some US funds and discovered that our ATM cards had expired in January.
By Monday afternoon, I had resolved to learn to drive on the left for our next leave at Easter to the Cape, Hermanus and Stellenbosch. Our Zulu teacher arrived for our language lesson and we told him about our troubles over the weekend. We theorized that the wallet may have fallen out of Brendon’s back pocket in the crowded taxi. I asked Gobese if there was a Lost and Found at the Taxi Rank. He answered that there was no formal Lost and Found but he would call his friend who worked with the Rank Manager. He placed the call and a few minutes later his friend called back saying that a wallet had been turned in on Sunday. Hope for the Bond’s! Tuesday afternoon, Gogese arrived at our flat and asked if we had found the wallet. We answered, No, but we were still hopeful. He then pulled the black leather wallet out of his pocket with a big smile on his face. His friend rode the taxi all of the way up the mountain to deliver the wallet to Gobese at school that day. What a Miracle! Brendon and I were so thrilled that the Zulus would make such an effort for this act of kindness and honesty. I was ecstatic and felt blessed by this uplifting incident. (Plus I believe the South African roads will be much safer with Brendon driving.)
Blessings continued this week as we traveled to Amangwe Village, a Peace Corps site near the coast, to teach beading as part of their community development program. Amangwe Village was a former Mondi lumber company residential town that was converted to a center for teaching job skills and Zulu economic empowerment. Thanks to Alycia for inviting us and giving us the opportunity to see an effective NGO program in a beautiful tropical setting. My goal was to teach all five Zulu beading stitches during the three 4 hour sessions. The first session was 20 hospital patients from the next door hospital who were eager to learn their own culture. The next day included two sessions with 40 child care and home health workers who came to the village to learn organic gardening skills. These two groups were highly motivated and almost mastered four of the five stitches. I tried to give them a break midway through the training session, but they called out “We’re busy” and have no time to sing or drink tea. It was so fun to teach patients who were healthy and could push themselves to learn and perfect the techniques. They chatted, laughed and gossiped in their small circles, enjoying the experience of creating something beautiful from a few pieces of glass. I felt blessed that I could give them something of their own culture as they have the colorful patterns and art forms in their minds, but have never been taught the stitches. This could be another career path for Susan Bond when she returns home- Zulu Beading Teacher Extraordinaire! Life holds many surprises-What’s Ahead?
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Water Blues
It’s South Africa and “SEVEN TIMES” seems to be a rule of life- Seven Rand to the Dollar; a job takes seven times the time and money originally estimated; meetings are seven times as long as those conducted in the US with seven times the speeches; there are seven meals in a day; and any decision takes seven times the discussion with seven times the number of people consulted. This week the rule of Seven sent me to the brink of total frustration, which was then countered with acceptance and the Serenity Prayer: God help me to change what I can change, help me to accept what I cannot change and give me the wisdom to know the difference.
Last week’s blog described the water shortages and the surprise visit by the Zululand Water Engineer who promised to send a tanker truck with treated water as a clean backup supply for the AIDS patients. He requested that the rain water in the 7 auxiliary tanks be cleaned out for the new supply and promised to provide the truck the same day. The truck did not arrive that day or the next, or the next, etc. However, Tuesday night, seven days later, I passed the tanker truck while jogging on the dirt road into the Hospital. I was incredulous that a filled tanker would attempt the trip at 6pm. I stopped the truck and told the driver that the Hospital had seven tanks that needed clean treated water, especially the one directly behind the wards. (When the taps in the Hospital are dry the nurses must haul basins of water from the auxiliary tanks on the Hospital grounds to the patients in the wards. AIDS patients are especially susceptible to water born infections such as cholera, giardia and cyclospora).
After my jog, I returned to the Hospital and could not find the Tanker Truck. When queried, the security guard motioned in the direction of the high school. I sighed and ran over to the high school in time to see the water overflowing from the top of their single auxiliary tank unto the bare red dirt. I yelled “Mana” (Stop)!!! The driver stated that the guard had told him that the Hospital did not need any water and he should proceed to the high school. The truck was emptying the water on the ground because the driver did not want to make the long trip back to town with an almost full tank. I could barely conceal my anger and told the driver to go to the Hospital and fill the 7 tanks so that the AIDS patients could have access to clean water when the pump wasn’t working or demand exceeded supply. The driver turned his huge truck around and headed towards the Hospital. The guard opened up the gate and the truck headed to the tank closest to the road. By this time it was getting dark and navigating the narrow openings between hospital buildings is tricky even in the daytime.
I ran to the large tank behind the hospital wards and sighed again. It was turned on its side and had a large hole. File (Broken!) The tank had not been prepared for the clean supply as per the plan laid out by the water engineer and staff. Disaster hit again as the tanker truck drove the narrow driveway by the wards and pulled out the low hanging telephone wire protruding from the ward. The tanker topped off two more outlying tanks on the grounds hurried out of the Hospital. The results of this fiasco- no clean water for the patients and no telephone service, probably for seven days until the repairman can make the long trip up the mountain. I was angry for the wasted trip by the water company and the curious set of circumstances that resulted in isipithipithi (total chaos), instead of a short term solution to the water shortage.
The next morning in American fashion, I lashed out at the guard that sent the truck away, the maintenance staff who did not prepare the tanks, and at my coworkers who were nonplussed by the events. This aggravation was not in the best Peace Corps spirit and did not help the staff to solve the problem on their own. By Wednesday afternoon, I felt sadness but my frustration and anger had subsided. The words of the serenity prayer hit home, which I needed to repeat Seven Times!
As for the part of Africa that we can change, albeit small, the computer classes for the Hospital staff have begun. Twenty five employees signed up for the classes which are taught after work, using the 3 office computers with three students taught one on one for eight lessons. The classes have been mixed with some success; two of the four students dropped out due to other commitments after work. However, we will continue to plug in students until we go home on June 28, our close of service date. Hopefully, all of the interested staff will get a chance to become literate with the computer. They will have to practice the typing program on their own. We hesitated to start the computer training, waiting for a training room with training computers, but decided to go with what was available as time is growing short for two short time volunteers.
Last week’s blog described the water shortages and the surprise visit by the Zululand Water Engineer who promised to send a tanker truck with treated water as a clean backup supply for the AIDS patients. He requested that the rain water in the 7 auxiliary tanks be cleaned out for the new supply and promised to provide the truck the same day. The truck did not arrive that day or the next, or the next, etc. However, Tuesday night, seven days later, I passed the tanker truck while jogging on the dirt road into the Hospital. I was incredulous that a filled tanker would attempt the trip at 6pm. I stopped the truck and told the driver that the Hospital had seven tanks that needed clean treated water, especially the one directly behind the wards. (When the taps in the Hospital are dry the nurses must haul basins of water from the auxiliary tanks on the Hospital grounds to the patients in the wards. AIDS patients are especially susceptible to water born infections such as cholera, giardia and cyclospora).
After my jog, I returned to the Hospital and could not find the Tanker Truck. When queried, the security guard motioned in the direction of the high school. I sighed and ran over to the high school in time to see the water overflowing from the top of their single auxiliary tank unto the bare red dirt. I yelled “Mana” (Stop)!!! The driver stated that the guard had told him that the Hospital did not need any water and he should proceed to the high school. The truck was emptying the water on the ground because the driver did not want to make the long trip back to town with an almost full tank. I could barely conceal my anger and told the driver to go to the Hospital and fill the 7 tanks so that the AIDS patients could have access to clean water when the pump wasn’t working or demand exceeded supply. The driver turned his huge truck around and headed towards the Hospital. The guard opened up the gate and the truck headed to the tank closest to the road. By this time it was getting dark and navigating the narrow openings between hospital buildings is tricky even in the daytime.
I ran to the large tank behind the hospital wards and sighed again. It was turned on its side and had a large hole. File (Broken!) The tank had not been prepared for the clean supply as per the plan laid out by the water engineer and staff. Disaster hit again as the tanker truck drove the narrow driveway by the wards and pulled out the low hanging telephone wire protruding from the ward. The tanker topped off two more outlying tanks on the grounds hurried out of the Hospital. The results of this fiasco- no clean water for the patients and no telephone service, probably for seven days until the repairman can make the long trip up the mountain. I was angry for the wasted trip by the water company and the curious set of circumstances that resulted in isipithipithi (total chaos), instead of a short term solution to the water shortage.
The next morning in American fashion, I lashed out at the guard that sent the truck away, the maintenance staff who did not prepare the tanks, and at my coworkers who were nonplussed by the events. This aggravation was not in the best Peace Corps spirit and did not help the staff to solve the problem on their own. By Wednesday afternoon, I felt sadness but my frustration and anger had subsided. The words of the serenity prayer hit home, which I needed to repeat Seven Times!
As for the part of Africa that we can change, albeit small, the computer classes for the Hospital staff have begun. Twenty five employees signed up for the classes which are taught after work, using the 3 office computers with three students taught one on one for eight lessons. The classes have been mixed with some success; two of the four students dropped out due to other commitments after work. However, we will continue to plug in students until we go home on June 28, our close of service date. Hopefully, all of the interested staff will get a chance to become literate with the computer. They will have to practice the typing program on their own. We hesitated to start the computer training, waiting for a training room with training computers, but decided to go with what was available as time is growing short for two short time volunteers.
Monday, February 11, 2008
Sunday, February 10, 2008
Mountain High Woes and Wows
Good News-Power at the Hospital returned this week with Load Shedding a fact of life for South Africa but with unpredictable patterns. The water shortage did not abate however, and grew worse on Tuesday with nothing coming out of the spigots in the early morning and some evenings. (Great excuse to put off washing dishes). We set out for Vryhied early Saturday morning with a pile of dishes sitting in the sink which will be waiting when we return this afternoon.
With American zeal, I called engineering firms and municipal water officials to determine the root cause of the water shortages. Since the power was working, the lack of treated water must be due to another problem besides load shedding; maybe a broken pipe, pump, inadequate tank capacity or increased demand from the doubling of the boys boarding facility. Ironically the small lake and river that are the source of our supply are abundantly full, due to above average rainfall this year. To our surprise, an engineer from Zululand Water arrived at the Hospital and stated that the pump was too small to provide water for the 500 persons using the system and a plan would have to be developed to replace the pump. In the meantime the utility company would provide a tanker truck of treated water. However, the tanker truck has not arrived and the nurses must take care of very sick AIDS patients with intermittent water supplies.
The nurses are the heroes at the Hospital. The professional nurses (called Sisters) are the US version of registered nurses. They are very experienced and have had several careers in nursing, which is a good thing because they have the character to deal with day to day crises, shortages of supplies, lack of a generator or clean water. This week the Hospital had another sort of crisis with the nurses, director and doctor at odds with each other creating a tense atmosphere. Peace Corps volunteers could not ameliorate the situation, only observe and feel pain from the disconnect. Dedicated professionals, taking care of suffering indigent AIDS patients, could not work as a team. Their squabbling caused us more personal grief than the water shortages or those long trips to town for food. Finger pointing and fault finding seemed to be the norm rather than problem solving.
In spite of the difficulties of the week, several positive developments occurred. First, an order for 20 fleece hats and scarves arrived from an NGO in JoBurg so at last some funding for continuation of the occupational therapy program for the patients has started up. (Of course it will take sales of around 2000 items to fully fund the volunteer coordinator and the quality fabric, beads and shoe materials that the Peace Corps grant paid for this year.) Winter is coming and the fleece hats look very inviting on a cold day- pension distribution points in March look like a good marketing tactic. This week was spent getting the JoBurg order ready and knotting the fleece scarves with yarn fringe.
Brendon and I finally connected with the Principal at the public high school that shares Mountain High. We have been tutoring and mentoring several Zulu students but want to formally offer assistance to the school. Peace Corps encourages a secondary project at each site. The charming man welcomed us with open arms and we wondered why we hadn’t met with him sooner. The high school has 500 students, most of them boarders. They come from all over Zululand and as far as JoBurg and Durban to attend this institution, named after the first Zulu Christian convert. The school has 100% of its students pass the national matric exam each year, the best record for any public school. However, there is the age old problem of town vs gown with most of the local children dropping out before 11th grade but a great education is available, even in this extreme rural site. The students have no distractions as there is no TV, internet, video games, shopping mall or fast food within 40 miles. They are required to attend study hall from 6 to 9 pm each night. They are highly motivated and understand that their role as the promise of the new South Africa. This school has no discipline problems with every student in class, listening attentively to the teacher’s lectures and doing the required work. In South Africa, the certificate or standard is what counts in getting a good job and a bright future.
In spite of no science laboratories, no textbooks in many subjects, and 40 or 50 students per class, signs of progress are in the works. The school has just received 24 top-of-the line personal computers for the students and beautiful new biology textbooks. We offered our services to assist with the computer lab, tutor in the sciences, organize an AIDS awareness day for the students in conjunction with the Hospital staff, and provide a Shakespeare instructor for a special session. (Welcome Melinda). The Principal joyfully embraced all of the ideas and asked Brendon to work on the network that day. The new South Africa is optimistic about the future and we saw this hope embodied in the staff at the high school. AIDs Awareness Day is especially poignant as the students are on summer vacation during the December program. HIV infection rates are finally going down among teenagers but plateaus as soon as the youth leave home in their 20’s. Hopefully an assembly devoted to AIDS education and the theme “Make a plan to stay AIDS Free for Life” will empower the students, lessen the stigma, and open up a dialogue.
With American zeal, I called engineering firms and municipal water officials to determine the root cause of the water shortages. Since the power was working, the lack of treated water must be due to another problem besides load shedding; maybe a broken pipe, pump, inadequate tank capacity or increased demand from the doubling of the boys boarding facility. Ironically the small lake and river that are the source of our supply are abundantly full, due to above average rainfall this year. To our surprise, an engineer from Zululand Water arrived at the Hospital and stated that the pump was too small to provide water for the 500 persons using the system and a plan would have to be developed to replace the pump. In the meantime the utility company would provide a tanker truck of treated water. However, the tanker truck has not arrived and the nurses must take care of very sick AIDS patients with intermittent water supplies.
The nurses are the heroes at the Hospital. The professional nurses (called Sisters) are the US version of registered nurses. They are very experienced and have had several careers in nursing, which is a good thing because they have the character to deal with day to day crises, shortages of supplies, lack of a generator or clean water. This week the Hospital had another sort of crisis with the nurses, director and doctor at odds with each other creating a tense atmosphere. Peace Corps volunteers could not ameliorate the situation, only observe and feel pain from the disconnect. Dedicated professionals, taking care of suffering indigent AIDS patients, could not work as a team. Their squabbling caused us more personal grief than the water shortages or those long trips to town for food. Finger pointing and fault finding seemed to be the norm rather than problem solving.
In spite of the difficulties of the week, several positive developments occurred. First, an order for 20 fleece hats and scarves arrived from an NGO in JoBurg so at last some funding for continuation of the occupational therapy program for the patients has started up. (Of course it will take sales of around 2000 items to fully fund the volunteer coordinator and the quality fabric, beads and shoe materials that the Peace Corps grant paid for this year.) Winter is coming and the fleece hats look very inviting on a cold day- pension distribution points in March look like a good marketing tactic. This week was spent getting the JoBurg order ready and knotting the fleece scarves with yarn fringe.
Brendon and I finally connected with the Principal at the public high school that shares Mountain High. We have been tutoring and mentoring several Zulu students but want to formally offer assistance to the school. Peace Corps encourages a secondary project at each site. The charming man welcomed us with open arms and we wondered why we hadn’t met with him sooner. The high school has 500 students, most of them boarders. They come from all over Zululand and as far as JoBurg and Durban to attend this institution, named after the first Zulu Christian convert. The school has 100% of its students pass the national matric exam each year, the best record for any public school. However, there is the age old problem of town vs gown with most of the local children dropping out before 11th grade but a great education is available, even in this extreme rural site. The students have no distractions as there is no TV, internet, video games, shopping mall or fast food within 40 miles. They are required to attend study hall from 6 to 9 pm each night. They are highly motivated and understand that their role as the promise of the new South Africa. This school has no discipline problems with every student in class, listening attentively to the teacher’s lectures and doing the required work. In South Africa, the certificate or standard is what counts in getting a good job and a bright future.
In spite of no science laboratories, no textbooks in many subjects, and 40 or 50 students per class, signs of progress are in the works. The school has just received 24 top-of-the line personal computers for the students and beautiful new biology textbooks. We offered our services to assist with the computer lab, tutor in the sciences, organize an AIDS awareness day for the students in conjunction with the Hospital staff, and provide a Shakespeare instructor for a special session. (Welcome Melinda). The Principal joyfully embraced all of the ideas and asked Brendon to work on the network that day. The new South Africa is optimistic about the future and we saw this hope embodied in the staff at the high school. AIDs Awareness Day is especially poignant as the students are on summer vacation during the December program. HIV infection rates are finally going down among teenagers but plateaus as soon as the youth leave home in their 20’s. Hopefully an assembly devoted to AIDS education and the theme “Make a plan to stay AIDS Free for Life” will empower the students, lessen the stigma, and open up a dialogue.
Monday, February 04, 2008
Escape to Leopard Mountain
So How’z it for the power crisis in SA? How does a Peace Corps Volunteer cope with no power? The power problem has settled into a pattern of no electricity for a few hours a day. So Why Worry! Akuna Matata! Unfortunately the power issue stretches its nasty web over all of the first world amenities- thus when the electricity shuts down in a remote location like Mountain High Hospital the clean water supply goes kaput and hot water is a pipe dream.
Last Sunday we awoke with no water because of the lack of power to drive the pump for the water system. The pump was primed and electricity restored several hours later. On Thursday the electricity was on “load shedding” and by Friday the power was back but the water and hot water were nowhere to be found. At 11 am the water mechanic announced that the water was on the blitz again. Brendon and I have been adapting to a lack of power with the purchase of candles, flashlights, batteries and a small barbeque for cooking but water restriction puts a damper (no pun intended) on many human activities. So with this announcement and the prospect of no power, water or hot water for the weekend we decided to TGIF (Thank God It’s Friday) by noon and head off to somewhere? Hopefully someplace with clean water! We hitched a ride to town and discussed where to go on of our two weekends offsite for the month.
A Peace Corp Volunteer (thank you Brad) had inquired about a game lodge which is nearby, Leopard Mountain Lodge. However, as the bird flies and the obscure dirt road make this destination a complicated getaway. However, speedy rides to town were coupled with transport to this beautiful lodge and game preserve, 10 km off the N2 highway. What a find! We have been eager to stay at a game lodge that is on the coastal track but have been put off by the prices- only the richest tourists can afford the $1000 per night per person so that they can sleep in air conditioned comfort in a tent with a full bath and butler in the bush. Leopard Mountain Lodge is on the 200,000 hectare Leopard Mountain Preserve and speaks for the future of affordable ecotourism in South Africa. I was embarrassed to call them late Friday as we searched for somewhere to go that would teach us about South Africa and would be fun. Leopard Mountain certainly met the bill! They graciously offered us one of the 6 beautiful thatched chalets high on the mountain above the savannah overlooking the game preserve. Each chalet has comfortable hammocks that swing across the deck. The price per night includes dinner and breakfast, scrumptious tea times and game drives with a lower cost for two people than a hotel room in a US city.
We found our way into Leopard Mountain Lodge late on Friday afternoon and were awed by the amazing location high above the savannah. The chalets are thatched with large covered decks that extend over the mountain cliff. The decorating style is African with local fabrics, tiles and baskets. (It will be hard coming back to the US with hard plaster ceilings that do not absorb noise or provide the insulating capacity (or drama) that beams covered with handhewn thatch provide.) We sat out on the deck for the first few hours gazing at the savannah below with baboon troops running down the dry river and impalas grazing on the hillside. Drums call one to dinner at the “Boma”, a sand pit with gas lanterns, Zulu altarpieces consisting of pots, grasses, sculptures and tables set with fine china, and five course gourmet dinners. Most interesting to note was the fact that there were only three couples enjoying this amazing repast and sensory experience. Entertainment was provided by two toads in stereo competing for territory.
\
Saturday morning, Leopard Mountain provided complimentary game drives on their huge estate, which is now part of the Zululand Black Rhino Preserve. This is an effort to tear down the fences between properties and create an environment where existing game can thrive and former species can be reintroduced. After drinking a cup of real brewed coffee, we headed off in the open air jeep to view the game. One is promised two game drives a day and we took advantage of the offer with other guests as companions. The terrain is lovely with many beautiful African tree canopies, numerous species of birds and raptors and interesting geological formations. The game sightings were splendid-lovely herds of impala and wildebeest with their young, baboons running through the dry river, two cape buffalo cruising the terrain, families of wart hogs, and nyala with their yellow bobby sox and white stripes. The guide, who bears a certificate for wildlife knowledge and safety, stopped midway through the game drive in the dry riverbank for the passengers to stretch their legs and enjoy a cup of tea or cold drink. Surely a civilized way to face game in South Africa! After returning to the lodge where breakfast awaited, we relaxed at the rock pool and enjoyed the panorama below.
When Sunday came it was time to return to the Hospital and face the work for the week. The electricity, water and hot water were all functioning and we were ready for the tasks tomorrow. Peace Corps has taught us to be open to new opportunities and to turn lemons to lemonade. This weekend was full of lemonade and surprises!
Last Sunday we awoke with no water because of the lack of power to drive the pump for the water system. The pump was primed and electricity restored several hours later. On Thursday the electricity was on “load shedding” and by Friday the power was back but the water and hot water were nowhere to be found. At 11 am the water mechanic announced that the water was on the blitz again. Brendon and I have been adapting to a lack of power with the purchase of candles, flashlights, batteries and a small barbeque for cooking but water restriction puts a damper (no pun intended) on many human activities. So with this announcement and the prospect of no power, water or hot water for the weekend we decided to TGIF (Thank God It’s Friday) by noon and head off to somewhere? Hopefully someplace with clean water! We hitched a ride to town and discussed where to go on of our two weekends offsite for the month.
A Peace Corp Volunteer (thank you Brad) had inquired about a game lodge which is nearby, Leopard Mountain Lodge. However, as the bird flies and the obscure dirt road make this destination a complicated getaway. However, speedy rides to town were coupled with transport to this beautiful lodge and game preserve, 10 km off the N2 highway. What a find! We have been eager to stay at a game lodge that is on the coastal track but have been put off by the prices- only the richest tourists can afford the $1000 per night per person so that they can sleep in air conditioned comfort in a tent with a full bath and butler in the bush. Leopard Mountain Lodge is on the 200,000 hectare Leopard Mountain Preserve and speaks for the future of affordable ecotourism in South Africa. I was embarrassed to call them late Friday as we searched for somewhere to go that would teach us about South Africa and would be fun. Leopard Mountain certainly met the bill! They graciously offered us one of the 6 beautiful thatched chalets high on the mountain above the savannah overlooking the game preserve. Each chalet has comfortable hammocks that swing across the deck. The price per night includes dinner and breakfast, scrumptious tea times and game drives with a lower cost for two people than a hotel room in a US city.
We found our way into Leopard Mountain Lodge late on Friday afternoon and were awed by the amazing location high above the savannah. The chalets are thatched with large covered decks that extend over the mountain cliff. The decorating style is African with local fabrics, tiles and baskets. (It will be hard coming back to the US with hard plaster ceilings that do not absorb noise or provide the insulating capacity (or drama) that beams covered with handhewn thatch provide.) We sat out on the deck for the first few hours gazing at the savannah below with baboon troops running down the dry river and impalas grazing on the hillside. Drums call one to dinner at the “Boma”, a sand pit with gas lanterns, Zulu altarpieces consisting of pots, grasses, sculptures and tables set with fine china, and five course gourmet dinners. Most interesting to note was the fact that there were only three couples enjoying this amazing repast and sensory experience. Entertainment was provided by two toads in stereo competing for territory.
\
Saturday morning, Leopard Mountain provided complimentary game drives on their huge estate, which is now part of the Zululand Black Rhino Preserve. This is an effort to tear down the fences between properties and create an environment where existing game can thrive and former species can be reintroduced. After drinking a cup of real brewed coffee, we headed off in the open air jeep to view the game. One is promised two game drives a day and we took advantage of the offer with other guests as companions. The terrain is lovely with many beautiful African tree canopies, numerous species of birds and raptors and interesting geological formations. The game sightings were splendid-lovely herds of impala and wildebeest with their young, baboons running through the dry river, two cape buffalo cruising the terrain, families of wart hogs, and nyala with their yellow bobby sox and white stripes. The guide, who bears a certificate for wildlife knowledge and safety, stopped midway through the game drive in the dry riverbank for the passengers to stretch their legs and enjoy a cup of tea or cold drink. Surely a civilized way to face game in South Africa! After returning to the lodge where breakfast awaited, we relaxed at the rock pool and enjoyed the panorama below.
When Sunday came it was time to return to the Hospital and face the work for the week. The electricity, water and hot water were all functioning and we were ready for the tasks tomorrow. Peace Corps has taught us to be open to new opportunities and to turn lemons to lemonade. This weekend was full of lemonade and surprises!
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Load Shedding Anyone?
The fact that South Africa is a developing nation has been ringing home the last two weeks as the whole country has been gripped with “Load Shedding” a euphemism for the utilities shutting down power for several hours a day due to inadequate supplies of electricity. The power plants and transfer stations that should have been developed since apartheid to provide electricity for an industrialized developed nation were handed over to the private sector to build. Alas, since electricity here is a cheap commodity the private sector could not profitably build the infrastructure needed. Voila! The country is short of power with no easy short term fixes.
So what does “Load Shedding” mean for Peace Corps volunteers at a rural site where the power supply is inconsistent anyway? The summer thunderstorms cause numerous outages and one is advised to cook early in the day as electricity provides the only means of heating food on that handy-dandy hot plate. Two weeks ago the power went off suddenly in the morning and did not return until the next day. The day was not stormy so there appeared to be no explanation for the outage. The next day the outage lasted most of the day and finally came back on at 630pm in time to cook dinner. A radio report announced the bad news- the whole country was blacked out for several hours a day. There was no excess capacity and the utility company required each municipality to decide who and when to cut each day. By the fourth or fifth day everyone was getting cranky about the power as there was no pattern to the shut offs. After one week the shut downs took on a pattern with 3 hours out in the morning and two hours from 4 to 6pm. Moods improved when people learned how to plan. However, business losses were huge and traffic came to a standstill as the robots (traffic lights) in the cities did not work not to mention the electrical security fences that guard most of JoBurg. Most retail stores tried to stay open but there were few customers that ventured into town to shop. The tram heading up Table Mountain was stuck part way up. This week the platinum and gold mines had to close, causing the prices to rise and the stock market here to take a nosedive.
The Bonds were prepared for the power outages with their flashlights, headlamps, and candles. Our one room flat was lit up like a scene from a romantic movie. However after the third night of eating cold food and hauling out the old wine bottles used as candle holders the scene grew tiresome. The outages were taking their toll on our food supply with pungent smells coming from the frig. Fortunately after a week the power came on promptly at 630pm in time to cook dinner. At first we joked that the poor in the rural areas were required to sacrifice their sole means of cooking so that the rich in Durban could run their air conditioners during a heat wave but the problem is more complex than a brownout from excessive demand.
Last weekend we muddled whether to take the taxi to town or stay on the mountain, not knowing whether there was power in town. We needed groceries and a change of scenery after being at Mountain High for two weeks. We caught Mr. Zulu’s taxi and checked into our b and b. The young girl at the desk said we had our choice of rooms as the lodge and town were empty. We took a back room away from the road which was a mistake as it faces the rear of a slaughter house which had one of the few generators in town. Promptly at 10am and 4pm, as soon as the power went down, the noisy generator cranked up.
So what to do this weekend when TV and computers were idle? We hiked up the Vryheid Hill to spot game. Not only did we see eland, zebras, bushbuck, and impala, but their n flourishing new born young out learning the ropes. Ever see a baby zebra nurse? The impalas were shy and quickly routed their babies to protected covens. The small impalas had strong legs, however, and were able to run in time with their guardians. The impalas have a lovely grace and are a beautiful combination of white underbelly, wide tan stripe above the white and a chestnut brown top. The colors reminded me of Scotchmallow fondants at Sees Candies in the US. We were the only hikers in the preserve and chatted with the game warden on the hike down the hill. He was interested in getting the track repaired so more people could drive through the lovely preserve. I retorted that the game and atmosphere would drastically change if more vehicles braved the steep road. However, it was a shame that more people did not take advantage of the beautiful sights just a short walk from town. .
We felt restored after seeing the game and listening to the beautiful bird calls. Back at the B and B we wondered what to do for dinner and headed across the street to Dee’s, Vryheid’s finest restaurant. Dees’ is a classic South African restaurant with grilled meats and baby chicken, fish, crayfish ,and prawns and of course Greek salad which is on every restaurant in this country. (Someone must have wondered what to do with all the goats’ milk in SA, “Hey, why not make feta and popularize Greek salad). Garlic snails, mushrooms and side sauces like spicy peri-peri and monkey gland are universal on all menus. Meats include steaks, lamb chops, Rump and of course Ladies Rump at a discount. Dees has an elegant dining room and features upscale delights like steak stuffed with mussels or prawns with entrees being less than $10, sweet for Peace Corps budgets. I have made it a note to try Monkey Gland before returning home if only to find out its true source.
This night was a special annual event at Dee’s. Two rock bands had been hired to play 60’s, 70’s and 80’s goodies outside on their patio overlooking a beautiful garden with old growth trees, flowers and fountains. We asked to sit outside to listen to the bands and the waitress cautioned that the bands might be too loud for us. We told her not to worry and spent a lovely summer night listening to Our Music and finally feeling that we knew the culture and what was going on. This is what we have missed-the element of being in a crowd for pleasure, enjoyment and fun and not having to guess what is proper behavior. We were able to relax and just be another music lover rather than the object of curiosity or an outsider. The pleasure was great and diminished the power frustrations. The evocative music lasted into the next day as we headed back to the Hospital with the sounds of the Beatles and Sweet Alabama ringing in our ears.
So what does “Load Shedding” mean for Peace Corps volunteers at a rural site where the power supply is inconsistent anyway? The summer thunderstorms cause numerous outages and one is advised to cook early in the day as electricity provides the only means of heating food on that handy-dandy hot plate. Two weeks ago the power went off suddenly in the morning and did not return until the next day. The day was not stormy so there appeared to be no explanation for the outage. The next day the outage lasted most of the day and finally came back on at 630pm in time to cook dinner. A radio report announced the bad news- the whole country was blacked out for several hours a day. There was no excess capacity and the utility company required each municipality to decide who and when to cut each day. By the fourth or fifth day everyone was getting cranky about the power as there was no pattern to the shut offs. After one week the shut downs took on a pattern with 3 hours out in the morning and two hours from 4 to 6pm. Moods improved when people learned how to plan. However, business losses were huge and traffic came to a standstill as the robots (traffic lights) in the cities did not work not to mention the electrical security fences that guard most of JoBurg. Most retail stores tried to stay open but there were few customers that ventured into town to shop. The tram heading up Table Mountain was stuck part way up. This week the platinum and gold mines had to close, causing the prices to rise and the stock market here to take a nosedive.
The Bonds were prepared for the power outages with their flashlights, headlamps, and candles. Our one room flat was lit up like a scene from a romantic movie. However after the third night of eating cold food and hauling out the old wine bottles used as candle holders the scene grew tiresome. The outages were taking their toll on our food supply with pungent smells coming from the frig. Fortunately after a week the power came on promptly at 630pm in time to cook dinner. At first we joked that the poor in the rural areas were required to sacrifice their sole means of cooking so that the rich in Durban could run their air conditioners during a heat wave but the problem is more complex than a brownout from excessive demand.
Last weekend we muddled whether to take the taxi to town or stay on the mountain, not knowing whether there was power in town. We needed groceries and a change of scenery after being at Mountain High for two weeks. We caught Mr. Zulu’s taxi and checked into our b and b. The young girl at the desk said we had our choice of rooms as the lodge and town were empty. We took a back room away from the road which was a mistake as it faces the rear of a slaughter house which had one of the few generators in town. Promptly at 10am and 4pm, as soon as the power went down, the noisy generator cranked up.
So what to do this weekend when TV and computers were idle? We hiked up the Vryheid Hill to spot game. Not only did we see eland, zebras, bushbuck, and impala, but their n flourishing new born young out learning the ropes. Ever see a baby zebra nurse? The impalas were shy and quickly routed their babies to protected covens. The small impalas had strong legs, however, and were able to run in time with their guardians. The impalas have a lovely grace and are a beautiful combination of white underbelly, wide tan stripe above the white and a chestnut brown top. The colors reminded me of Scotchmallow fondants at Sees Candies in the US. We were the only hikers in the preserve and chatted with the game warden on the hike down the hill. He was interested in getting the track repaired so more people could drive through the lovely preserve. I retorted that the game and atmosphere would drastically change if more vehicles braved the steep road. However, it was a shame that more people did not take advantage of the beautiful sights just a short walk from town. .
We felt restored after seeing the game and listening to the beautiful bird calls. Back at the B and B we wondered what to do for dinner and headed across the street to Dee’s, Vryheid’s finest restaurant. Dees’ is a classic South African restaurant with grilled meats and baby chicken, fish, crayfish ,and prawns and of course Greek salad which is on every restaurant in this country. (Someone must have wondered what to do with all the goats’ milk in SA, “Hey, why not make feta and popularize Greek salad). Garlic snails, mushrooms and side sauces like spicy peri-peri and monkey gland are universal on all menus. Meats include steaks, lamb chops, Rump and of course Ladies Rump at a discount. Dees has an elegant dining room and features upscale delights like steak stuffed with mussels or prawns with entrees being less than $10, sweet for Peace Corps budgets. I have made it a note to try Monkey Gland before returning home if only to find out its true source.
This night was a special annual event at Dee’s. Two rock bands had been hired to play 60’s, 70’s and 80’s goodies outside on their patio overlooking a beautiful garden with old growth trees, flowers and fountains. We asked to sit outside to listen to the bands and the waitress cautioned that the bands might be too loud for us. We told her not to worry and spent a lovely summer night listening to Our Music and finally feeling that we knew the culture and what was going on. This is what we have missed-the element of being in a crowd for pleasure, enjoyment and fun and not having to guess what is proper behavior. We were able to relax and just be another music lover rather than the object of curiosity or an outsider. The pleasure was great and diminished the power frustrations. The evocative music lasted into the next day as we headed back to the Hospital with the sounds of the Beatles and Sweet Alabama ringing in our ears.
Sunday, January 20, 2008
Searching for Grub-Round 2
Last week the Bond’s left you wondering whether they had chicken heads or eggs in their Bobotie. Fortunately the locals took pity on the silly Americans and understood what the poor soles were trying to communicate. The bobotie was a big success and a treat to eat. The next day (last Saturday 13 Jan) we attempted to hike to the site of commerce in our very rural small community, and purchase eggs and a tube of toothpaste.
Our mountain home consists of the AIDs/TB hospital high on a ridge overlooking a rural valley with small kraals (ranches). The mountain is also home to a deserted tea plantation, timber mill, Catholic shrine, indigenous nature preserve, and liquor store/tuck shop. We decided to take a short cut to get to the store, rather than traveling 4km down the dirt road to the tar road and hiking up and down the busy highway 3 km to the store.
So what’s it like to take the shortcut cross town to the store? Our coworkers had advised us that there was a great shortcut to the local tuck shop and to head to the right past the neighbor’s farm. So with that extensive guide map, we headed out the dirt road, over the bare rock section, past the high plain for grazing to the intersection with our neighbor’s farm. (The neighbor has a lumber trucking business and cattle enterprise and has been friendly when he passes us hiking down the track.) We walked down his long drive to his home where 3 dogs started barking and protecting their master’s estate. We hurried past the gate where the 3 dogs were ready to lunge and waved hello to the workers who came out to see the commotion. Thoughts of being accosted or arrested jumped through our minds but the adventure beckoned. Just past the gate we ran into mud on the track and several abandoned buildings. There were large vines and luscious overhanging flowers. This certainly was the tropical side of Mountain High. The track twisted around the neighbor’s estate until we reached a T. The left track went up the hillside away from what we thought was the direction of the small store. The right track headed into a dense forest of beautiful yellowing deciduous trees and ferns. The track grew smaller into a narrow path. Ahead I saw something in the path- a beautiful grey duiker and then another duiker headed the other direction. A lover’s spat? We headed down the slope on a narrow grassy footpath and were rewarded by a view of the water source for all of our mountain population-two lovely pristine lakes surrounded by virgin indigenous forest. The footpath crossed the isthmus between the small lakes.
Water is as scarce as transport here so the sight of these beautiful lakes was a treat for the eyes and soul. Many years ago, the NGO we work for sold grazing land to the neighbor in order to obtain access to the clean water in front of our view.
After crossing the small lakes we headed up the hillside, losing the obscure trail. After a short ways we came to a small pond where cattle were grazing. At the top of the hill above the pond a tin roofed farmhouse and kraal came into view. As we walked past the pond, a water monitor three feet long raged across the path into the pond. Of course, we jumped back and thought that crocodiles were part of this ecosystem. But a water monitor was pretty exciting to Southern California folks who get excited about geckos. We hiked past the pond and cows and headed towards the farmhouse. By this time we were completely lost with no indication of where the small settlement was located or the roads. We looked back at the pond and saw three makotis (matrons) following in our footsteps. We stopped to wait for them to catch up so that we could ask for directions. In my best Zulu I asked them where the tuck shop was located for the timber mill, and the women burst out laughing. They pointed to the farm house and said Lapha (There). We followed them through the kissing gates and up the small trail to the small store, which did have toothpaste and eggs. Success!
The small store was fixed in a former time with two styles of shoes, bags of mealies, watchbands, school supplies, cans of deviled meat, sewing notions, soap, eggs, tomatoes, onions and ice cold sodas. We asked the proprietor about the lizard and he laughed when we mentioned crocodile. No, he said in his best English, the lizards are varan.
So at last we had come to Mountain High central trading and were able to purchase needed items. I believe that getting there was at least half the fun!
Our mountain home consists of the AIDs/TB hospital high on a ridge overlooking a rural valley with small kraals (ranches). The mountain is also home to a deserted tea plantation, timber mill, Catholic shrine, indigenous nature preserve, and liquor store/tuck shop. We decided to take a short cut to get to the store, rather than traveling 4km down the dirt road to the tar road and hiking up and down the busy highway 3 km to the store.
So what’s it like to take the shortcut cross town to the store? Our coworkers had advised us that there was a great shortcut to the local tuck shop and to head to the right past the neighbor’s farm. So with that extensive guide map, we headed out the dirt road, over the bare rock section, past the high plain for grazing to the intersection with our neighbor’s farm. (The neighbor has a lumber trucking business and cattle enterprise and has been friendly when he passes us hiking down the track.) We walked down his long drive to his home where 3 dogs started barking and protecting their master’s estate. We hurried past the gate where the 3 dogs were ready to lunge and waved hello to the workers who came out to see the commotion. Thoughts of being accosted or arrested jumped through our minds but the adventure beckoned. Just past the gate we ran into mud on the track and several abandoned buildings. There were large vines and luscious overhanging flowers. This certainly was the tropical side of Mountain High. The track twisted around the neighbor’s estate until we reached a T. The left track went up the hillside away from what we thought was the direction of the small store. The right track headed into a dense forest of beautiful yellowing deciduous trees and ferns. The track grew smaller into a narrow path. Ahead I saw something in the path- a beautiful grey duiker and then another duiker headed the other direction. A lover’s spat? We headed down the slope on a narrow grassy footpath and were rewarded by a view of the water source for all of our mountain population-two lovely pristine lakes surrounded by virgin indigenous forest. The footpath crossed the isthmus between the small lakes.
Water is as scarce as transport here so the sight of these beautiful lakes was a treat for the eyes and soul. Many years ago, the NGO we work for sold grazing land to the neighbor in order to obtain access to the clean water in front of our view.
After crossing the small lakes we headed up the hillside, losing the obscure trail. After a short ways we came to a small pond where cattle were grazing. At the top of the hill above the pond a tin roofed farmhouse and kraal came into view. As we walked past the pond, a water monitor three feet long raged across the path into the pond. Of course, we jumped back and thought that crocodiles were part of this ecosystem. But a water monitor was pretty exciting to Southern California folks who get excited about geckos. We hiked past the pond and cows and headed towards the farmhouse. By this time we were completely lost with no indication of where the small settlement was located or the roads. We looked back at the pond and saw three makotis (matrons) following in our footsteps. We stopped to wait for them to catch up so that we could ask for directions. In my best Zulu I asked them where the tuck shop was located for the timber mill, and the women burst out laughing. They pointed to the farm house and said Lapha (There). We followed them through the kissing gates and up the small trail to the small store, which did have toothpaste and eggs. Success!
The small store was fixed in a former time with two styles of shoes, bags of mealies, watchbands, school supplies, cans of deviled meat, sewing notions, soap, eggs, tomatoes, onions and ice cold sodas. We asked the proprietor about the lizard and he laughed when we mentioned crocodile. No, he said in his best English, the lizards are varan.
So at last we had come to Mountain High central trading and were able to purchase needed items. I believe that getting there was at least half the fun!
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Eggheads Anyone?-Peace Corps Grub
Common wisdom holds that cuisine is the easiest introduction to another culture. If the food from another country tastes good, what’s not to like about that ethnic group or nationality? After 19 months of working as Peace Corps Volunteers in South Africa, the Bond’s have learned about the tastes of this host country and enjoyed the bounty of this fertile land. Although water is a scarce resource, the native forests and farms yield multitude varieties of mushrooms, mangoes, shallots, litchis, guavas, papayas, sweet succulent squash, aromatic carrots, flavorful firm tomatoes and luscious avocadoes. The free-range chickens are plump and juicy with intense flavor and very little fat. The lamb is gamey and delicious. The pork is tasty and cured without nitrates so has a mild smoky taste. The varieties of sausage are endless and harkens back to the voortrekkers and their fabulous home recipes for wors. Braai (barbeque) is the unifying food among the many cultural and language groups in South Africa with everyone loving beef and a national holiday called “Braai Day.”
Ironically, food causes the most tension among Peace Corps volunteers and their host families. Most volunteers spend their two years living with a family (as we did our first two months of training) and eat with the family. Thus their diet may not have the variety of food as in the United States or the familiarity. Food habits are among the hardest to change. The Zulu’s diet in our area consists of mealy meal (pap) porridge, sauce for the porridge, vegetable- squash, chard, or beet root and rice for special dinners. Zulus love meat but cannot afford to eat it every day. All parts of the beef or chicken are eaten with a brand name of “Walkie Talkie” chicken (heads and feet.) The Zulus are careful cooks and take time to make the food tasty with sauce mixes. They do not like spicy foods. Thus comes the rub when a volunteer arrives as a guest and cannot eat his/her familiar foods because they are not available and the family cannot afford the American style ingredients. Volunteers are encouraged to purchase foods for the family and do their share of cooking but many volunteers come to Africa without the knowledge or experience to prepare their favorite foods. (Hint for Peace Corps applicants-Bring your favorite recipes with you and learn to cook before you get here-NO McDonald’s on every corner). Another problem is that food purchased by the volunteer becomes the property of the entire family-Ubuntu or community. So misunderstandings occur. (I remember a low point in training, everyone is calorie deprived at this time, when I had selected 5 perfect apples from the market to share with the family and they all disappeared within a few minutes with none for the hungry Bond’s). When we arrived at Mountain High, we decided to cook all of our meals in our one room flat off the business office and have enjoyed having a family life and seeing what can be created on a hot plate and occasional access to an oven.
Food is precious because it is so hard to obtain or grow here at Mountain High. Simple purchase of groceries requires a 2 hour taxi ride to town, a 1 km hike across town to the supermarket, purchase of the groceries and packing them in backpacks or large plastic tote bags, 1 km hike back across town to the taxi, a 2 hour taxi ride back to our mountain site and sometimes a 4 km hike from the tar road to the Hospital. Thus each item is carefully selected for size, durability and consistency with the meal plan for the week. No bags of chips on impulse or large roasts!
After many days in hotels over Christmas and recovery from wisdom tooth misery, Brendon decided to cook a celebratory South African dish on Friday night, “Bobotie”. This dish has Malay origins in Cape Town and is a fabulous concoction of beef or lamb, spices, fruits, nuts, chutney with a cream/egg topping. Originally it was cooked over an open fire in a special brown ceramic pot. Maybe the world’s best meat loaf or savory fruit cake! We found all of the ingredients and prepared the meat mixture. Trouble Hit! No eggs for the topping. It’s a long ways to run to the supermarket so I made a break for the Mountain High tuck shop. Every community in South Africa has a tuck shop, which is a very small convenience store, sometimes the back end of someone’s home. Alas although the shop sells shoe polish (good looking shoes and clothing are essential in South Africa), no eggs were to be found. A run to the Hospital kitchen and a plea for “Amakhanda” only drove the kitchen cooks into hysterics as I forgot the Click required to say eggs and instead asked them for chicken heads. They finally brought out 4 precious eggs and we were able to enjoy the Bobotie. This dish is a visual delight as the bay leaves stand tall in the custard looking like sails on the ship of good taste. Our first taste of Bobotie was in Darling where the satirist Evita de Perone had a topping that was thick and tasted of Mascarpone and Cream Fraiche. Alas his recipe not to be found.
INGREDIENTS:
2 medium sized onions, chopped
10 ml vegetable oil
40 ml butter
600 g ground beef or ground lamb
2 thick slices of stale white bread
125 g sultana raisins
60 ml flaked almonds
40 ml chutney
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10 ml masala (curry powder)
½ tsp turmeric
½ tsp minced ginger
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
pinch of cinnamon
pinch of nutmeg
3 cloves
salt to taste
ground black pepper
10 bay leaves
Egg custard:
3 eggs
150 ml milk
METHOD:
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Fry the onions in vegetable oil and butter over medium heat until they begin to brown. Add the beef and brown for a few minutes. Place the beef in a colander and soak the bread in the juice that drains from it.
In a mixing bowl, combine the beef and all the rest of the ingredients except the bay leaves. Press the bobotie mixture into a deep oven-proof dish. Spike the bay leaves into the mince.
Beat together the eggs and milk and pour over the top of the mince. Bake at 200°C for 30 minutes until the custard has browned.
Serve the bobotie with geel rys (white rice cooked with turmeric, raisins and cloves), chutney, chopped tomato and onion, sliced banana and desiccated coconut. Serves 6 - 8 people.
Ironically, food causes the most tension among Peace Corps volunteers and their host families. Most volunteers spend their two years living with a family (as we did our first two months of training) and eat with the family. Thus their diet may not have the variety of food as in the United States or the familiarity. Food habits are among the hardest to change. The Zulu’s diet in our area consists of mealy meal (pap) porridge, sauce for the porridge, vegetable- squash, chard, or beet root and rice for special dinners. Zulus love meat but cannot afford to eat it every day. All parts of the beef or chicken are eaten with a brand name of “Walkie Talkie” chicken (heads and feet.) The Zulus are careful cooks and take time to make the food tasty with sauce mixes. They do not like spicy foods. Thus comes the rub when a volunteer arrives as a guest and cannot eat his/her familiar foods because they are not available and the family cannot afford the American style ingredients. Volunteers are encouraged to purchase foods for the family and do their share of cooking but many volunteers come to Africa without the knowledge or experience to prepare their favorite foods. (Hint for Peace Corps applicants-Bring your favorite recipes with you and learn to cook before you get here-NO McDonald’s on every corner). Another problem is that food purchased by the volunteer becomes the property of the entire family-Ubuntu or community. So misunderstandings occur. (I remember a low point in training, everyone is calorie deprived at this time, when I had selected 5 perfect apples from the market to share with the family and they all disappeared within a few minutes with none for the hungry Bond’s). When we arrived at Mountain High, we decided to cook all of our meals in our one room flat off the business office and have enjoyed having a family life and seeing what can be created on a hot plate and occasional access to an oven.
Food is precious because it is so hard to obtain or grow here at Mountain High. Simple purchase of groceries requires a 2 hour taxi ride to town, a 1 km hike across town to the supermarket, purchase of the groceries and packing them in backpacks or large plastic tote bags, 1 km hike back across town to the taxi, a 2 hour taxi ride back to our mountain site and sometimes a 4 km hike from the tar road to the Hospital. Thus each item is carefully selected for size, durability and consistency with the meal plan for the week. No bags of chips on impulse or large roasts!
After many days in hotels over Christmas and recovery from wisdom tooth misery, Brendon decided to cook a celebratory South African dish on Friday night, “Bobotie”. This dish has Malay origins in Cape Town and is a fabulous concoction of beef or lamb, spices, fruits, nuts, chutney with a cream/egg topping. Originally it was cooked over an open fire in a special brown ceramic pot. Maybe the world’s best meat loaf or savory fruit cake! We found all of the ingredients and prepared the meat mixture. Trouble Hit! No eggs for the topping. It’s a long ways to run to the supermarket so I made a break for the Mountain High tuck shop. Every community in South Africa has a tuck shop, which is a very small convenience store, sometimes the back end of someone’s home. Alas although the shop sells shoe polish (good looking shoes and clothing are essential in South Africa), no eggs were to be found. A run to the Hospital kitchen and a plea for “Amakhanda” only drove the kitchen cooks into hysterics as I forgot the Click required to say eggs and instead asked them for chicken heads. They finally brought out 4 precious eggs and we were able to enjoy the Bobotie. This dish is a visual delight as the bay leaves stand tall in the custard looking like sails on the ship of good taste. Our first taste of Bobotie was in Darling where the satirist Evita de Perone had a topping that was thick and tasted of Mascarpone and Cream Fraiche. Alas his recipe not to be found.
INGREDIENTS:
2 medium sized onions, chopped
10 ml vegetable oil
40 ml butter
600 g ground beef or ground lamb
2 thick slices of stale white bread
125 g sultana raisins
60 ml flaked almonds
40 ml chutney
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10 ml masala (curry powder)
½ tsp turmeric
½ tsp minced ginger
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground coriander
pinch of cinnamon
pinch of nutmeg
3 cloves
salt to taste
ground black pepper
10 bay leaves
Egg custard:
3 eggs
150 ml milk
METHOD:
Preheat the oven to 200°C. Fry the onions in vegetable oil and butter over medium heat until they begin to brown. Add the beef and brown for a few minutes. Place the beef in a colander and soak the bread in the juice that drains from it.
In a mixing bowl, combine the beef and all the rest of the ingredients except the bay leaves. Press the bobotie mixture into a deep oven-proof dish. Spike the bay leaves into the mince.
Beat together the eggs and milk and pour over the top of the mince. Bake at 200°C for 30 minutes until the custard has browned.
Serve the bobotie with geel rys (white rice cooked with turmeric, raisins and cloves), chutney, chopped tomato and onion, sliced banana and desiccated coconut. Serves 6 - 8 people.
Monday, January 07, 2008
Clarens Views
Sunday, January 06, 2008
TIA This IS Africa
Instead of plunging back into work at Mountain High Hospital at the start of the New Year, Brendon and I have returned to Pretoria for follow-up treatment of the infected wisdom tooth pulled last month. The dentist diagnosed the problem as “Dry Socket” and prescribed the antibiotic that will cure the bone infection so today I am on the mend-mending in comfort next to a beautiful swimming pool in a tropical setting. This morning we attending the Uniting Presbyterian Church in Hatfield which aptly describes the country-Uniting is in process; not there yet. Tomorrow a final recheck with the dentist and then back to Mountain High Hospital to assist the patients and staff.
The Occupational Therapy is continually in flux as patients are discharged and new patients are admitted. The last month had the men in the majority and they eagerly sewed shirts, beaded and made shoes from impala skins. Unfortunately, they spend more time at the hospital as they are less compliant with the drug and lifestyle regimes for TB and AIDS. So towards the end of December many women were discharged or given passes while the men remained confined to the Hospital. Both the men and women are amiable and fun to work with. In spite of their conditions, they never whine or feel sorry for themselves and seek to laugh and joke at any opportunity-especially at the absurd Zulu of their American handcraft teacher!
I have wondered why the blogs of my colleagues are not as full of wonder and insights as they originally were when we first arrived at our work sights. The problem is that the inane experiences and amazing sights are now old hat and we are failing to see the beauty and delight of the everyday as it has now become commonplace. The taxi rides are tedious and uncomfortable. The wonderful inguni cows and goats in the road are just a nusiance. (Our taxi driver Mr. Zulu purchased a long whip when he purchased his new van which he uses to swat the cows which will not move out of the road. The goats are smarter and scurry to the roadside when cars come). Being a pedestrian is fraught with danger and fear from drivers and muggers. 40% of all traffic fatalities in SA are pedestrian deaths. The drivers speed up in intersections instead of slowing down. The pedestrian does not have the right of way and has to scurry out of the road just like the goats. The attitude “TIA This IS Africa” was humorous at first but now the delays, slowness of pace and inability to get anything done creates a feeling of impotence and waste, albeit the status quo.
Employees in South Africa complain about the low wages but they appreciate the generous public holidays, paid leave, government medical care, tea time breaks, long lunch periods, no overtime required and secure employment. I have told them about work in America with 10 hour days, weekend work, no coffee breaks, intense competition for jobs, accountability for productivity, and customer service satisfaction. Plus if one cannot rise to the task there are dozens waiting in line for the job. Globalization requires that productivity must rise in order to meet world standards. The employees are incredulous about work standards in America but they also are incredulous that Americans would volunteer to come to Africa to work for nothing.
Family is everything to South Africans and that spirit of community or Ubuntu is the factor that is keeping the villages together in spite of all the deaths of parents and workers from AIDS. Everyone is an Auntie or Sister or Brother or Father and they do not hesitate to jump in and help care for the orphans left behind.
In spite of sounding jaded and tired of my experience as a volunteer in South Africa, there are so many things that I love about the country and its people. These blessings and pleasures are bestowed in so many ways in many places:
The beautiful smiles of the children in our mountain community and their eagerness to talk and run with us. “Gejima” (Run) I call, “Shesha” (Faster).
The over 900 varieties of birds in this country that create a landscape of color and sound. The gardens are landscaping in the cities are crowded with exotic birds with beautiful calls not to mention the ever present hadeda Ibis which scream at the top of their lungs in flight and are beautiful/ugly in their iridescent feathers and huge ungainly forms
Game spotting when you least expect it. Yesterday at the botanical gardens in Pretoria a young grey duiker was seen in a field of yellow wild flowers next to two guinea fowl, proud in their white spots and turquoise crest. Game is ubiquitous in South Africa, not just the national parks or game preserves. The fun is to spot and then identify the game and see what other species are around. Giraffes are never alone; zebras are often accompanied by eland or impalas. Baboons are always in a troop with the babies clutching the mother’s breast as she runs through the forest.
Learning many new cultures and customs finally getting the story straight. Last year when we arrived a minister announced that he had an impala to give away. We did not know whether he was referring to a car or a mammal but now we know that animals, hides, skins and antlers are all part of the cultures here not to mention biltong (jerky) which is made from every type of game including elephant.
The wonderful tribal clothing and uniforms that everyone wears from school children in their striped ties and colors to church ladies with blue and white started gowns or crimson with white crosses.
The hospitality and comfort of the lodges, backpackers and b and b establishments and the unique flavor of each. It will be hard going back to cookie cutter motels in America. (not to mention US food and wine prices Ugh!)
So there is a reason that Peace Corps service is only 2 years. After that the wonder and appreciation for the novelty and excitement wears off and one becomes part of the system here in South Africa. We will see how much of the US seems new when we get home and surely will miss many things about SA. See you in July!
The Occupational Therapy is continually in flux as patients are discharged and new patients are admitted. The last month had the men in the majority and they eagerly sewed shirts, beaded and made shoes from impala skins. Unfortunately, they spend more time at the hospital as they are less compliant with the drug and lifestyle regimes for TB and AIDS. So towards the end of December many women were discharged or given passes while the men remained confined to the Hospital. Both the men and women are amiable and fun to work with. In spite of their conditions, they never whine or feel sorry for themselves and seek to laugh and joke at any opportunity-especially at the absurd Zulu of their American handcraft teacher!
I have wondered why the blogs of my colleagues are not as full of wonder and insights as they originally were when we first arrived at our work sights. The problem is that the inane experiences and amazing sights are now old hat and we are failing to see the beauty and delight of the everyday as it has now become commonplace. The taxi rides are tedious and uncomfortable. The wonderful inguni cows and goats in the road are just a nusiance. (Our taxi driver Mr. Zulu purchased a long whip when he purchased his new van which he uses to swat the cows which will not move out of the road. The goats are smarter and scurry to the roadside when cars come). Being a pedestrian is fraught with danger and fear from drivers and muggers. 40% of all traffic fatalities in SA are pedestrian deaths. The drivers speed up in intersections instead of slowing down. The pedestrian does not have the right of way and has to scurry out of the road just like the goats. The attitude “TIA This IS Africa” was humorous at first but now the delays, slowness of pace and inability to get anything done creates a feeling of impotence and waste, albeit the status quo.
Employees in South Africa complain about the low wages but they appreciate the generous public holidays, paid leave, government medical care, tea time breaks, long lunch periods, no overtime required and secure employment. I have told them about work in America with 10 hour days, weekend work, no coffee breaks, intense competition for jobs, accountability for productivity, and customer service satisfaction. Plus if one cannot rise to the task there are dozens waiting in line for the job. Globalization requires that productivity must rise in order to meet world standards. The employees are incredulous about work standards in America but they also are incredulous that Americans would volunteer to come to Africa to work for nothing.
Family is everything to South Africans and that spirit of community or Ubuntu is the factor that is keeping the villages together in spite of all the deaths of parents and workers from AIDS. Everyone is an Auntie or Sister or Brother or Father and they do not hesitate to jump in and help care for the orphans left behind.
In spite of sounding jaded and tired of my experience as a volunteer in South Africa, there are so many things that I love about the country and its people. These blessings and pleasures are bestowed in so many ways in many places:
The beautiful smiles of the children in our mountain community and their eagerness to talk and run with us. “Gejima” (Run) I call, “Shesha” (Faster).
The over 900 varieties of birds in this country that create a landscape of color and sound. The gardens are landscaping in the cities are crowded with exotic birds with beautiful calls not to mention the ever present hadeda Ibis which scream at the top of their lungs in flight and are beautiful/ugly in their iridescent feathers and huge ungainly forms
Game spotting when you least expect it. Yesterday at the botanical gardens in Pretoria a young grey duiker was seen in a field of yellow wild flowers next to two guinea fowl, proud in their white spots and turquoise crest. Game is ubiquitous in South Africa, not just the national parks or game preserves. The fun is to spot and then identify the game and see what other species are around. Giraffes are never alone; zebras are often accompanied by eland or impalas. Baboons are always in a troop with the babies clutching the mother’s breast as she runs through the forest.
Learning many new cultures and customs finally getting the story straight. Last year when we arrived a minister announced that he had an impala to give away. We did not know whether he was referring to a car or a mammal but now we know that animals, hides, skins and antlers are all part of the cultures here not to mention biltong (jerky) which is made from every type of game including elephant.
The wonderful tribal clothing and uniforms that everyone wears from school children in their striped ties and colors to church ladies with blue and white started gowns or crimson with white crosses.
The hospitality and comfort of the lodges, backpackers and b and b establishments and the unique flavor of each. It will be hard going back to cookie cutter motels in America. (not to mention US food and wine prices Ugh!)
So there is a reason that Peace Corps service is only 2 years. After that the wonder and appreciation for the novelty and excitement wears off and one becomes part of the system here in South Africa. We will see how much of the US seems new when we get home and surely will miss many things about SA. See you in July!
Monday, December 31, 2007
Drakensberg Mtns-South to North
Happy New Year from Clarens SA
Happy New Year to family, friends and neighbors! I am missing you very much but realize that 2008 brings our return home and reunion with our loved ones. Hopefully, you haven’t forgotten us and we can catch up on all of the news and cultural events we have missed. May God bless you in 2008 and give you peace and hope, the greatest of gifts! Service in the Peace Corps is a gift but it comes with sacrifices, not only for the volunteer but their family and friends who must fill in the gaps for them. The gaps cover everything from parenting (thanks Al for rising to the task), counseling grieving friends, paying bills and taxes, and taking care of rental property. No matter how carefully one plans for their absence, contingencies and crises arise that cannot be handled from 12,000 miles away. So we are very grateful that our family and friends have supported us and allowed us to abandon our roles in the US to serve AIDS patients in a mission hospital in Zululand. Sometimes we feel very guilty for shirking our place in our home community and our responsibilities as parents, but this has been a fabulous opportunity to use our skills and learn about South Africa. The motto on the blog site is “Do Some Good, Have Some Fun.” At this point in our service, our accomplishments may not be discernable but we sure have had a great time. Enough adventure for a lifetime!
This is the third phase of our Drakensberg Mountain road trip and we have spent the last four days in Clarens, the Free State at the north end bordering Lesotho. Clarens is an art town (don’t look for a pharmacy or supermarket) loaded with art galleries, ceramic studios, metal sculpture, foodie havens with every imaginable jam, pickle, cheese, condiment available (most homemade so I have had to put my Food and Drug training to bed), gourmet restaurants with camembert and fig in pastry, rocket and pear etc. The town is very charming with darling b and b or self catering facilities with oh so precious names like Cottage Pie and Toad House. The setting is at 6000ft next to Golden Gate National Park, aptly named for the fantastic red and gold geologic formations with green lichens growing up the mountain sides. The setting and artsy atmosphere reminds me of Sedona, if Sedona’s rock formations with blown up ten times the size. The park is full of wildflowers and birds this time of year, which is spring here in the high country. The activities here seem to be hiking the mountains or green valleys, touring the art galleries, or enjoying the restaurants and brew pubs. The town is picture perfect with a sandstone church with rooster weather vane, beautiful town square, open air shops and cafes and NO BARBED WIRE anywhere. The spot is great for coots like us but is also full of young couples and motor cyclists who drive from JoBurg (3 hours) for the day to enjoy the gorgeous setting. Tonight we will be celebrating New Years Eve at the Grouse and Claret, and open air restaurant where the evening temperature is 75 degrees. Perfect relaxing and enjoying the setting.
After touring the Midlands Meander for four days, we spent two days at Royal Natal National Park in the north end of the Drakensberg Mountains. The Amphitheater mountain formation stretches 8 km across and is 10000ft high. The light and shadows of the mountains change continually all day, creating mystery and awe. It begs to be climbed but is often shrouded in fog and mist. We caught glimpses of the forms, waterfalls, cascades and huge rock slabs as we hiked the Tugela gorge, a famous valley between the rock slabs. The Drakensberg is named for its sharp peaks like Dragons teeth; the Zulus named it after spear heads.
Tomorrow we head back to Mountain High to plunge back into our jobs and try to squeeze some productivity and sustainability out of the next 6 months. Our goal is to teach computer literacy to any staff member or resident that wants to learn how to use a computer. However, the teaching will be after work hours so it will be interesting to see if anyone shows up. As the weather grows colder I am hoping to have a marathon fleece hat sale, with proceeds slated for the continuation of the occupational therapy program after we go home. We are already feeling the imperative and push for limited time left and not much to show for our efforts. We have learned a huge amount from the experience and a different value system, especially pertaining to urgency and time schedules. We hope when we return to America, our new skills of patience and flexibility will go with us.
This is the third phase of our Drakensberg Mountain road trip and we have spent the last four days in Clarens, the Free State at the north end bordering Lesotho. Clarens is an art town (don’t look for a pharmacy or supermarket) loaded with art galleries, ceramic studios, metal sculpture, foodie havens with every imaginable jam, pickle, cheese, condiment available (most homemade so I have had to put my Food and Drug training to bed), gourmet restaurants with camembert and fig in pastry, rocket and pear etc. The town is very charming with darling b and b or self catering facilities with oh so precious names like Cottage Pie and Toad House. The setting is at 6000ft next to Golden Gate National Park, aptly named for the fantastic red and gold geologic formations with green lichens growing up the mountain sides. The setting and artsy atmosphere reminds me of Sedona, if Sedona’s rock formations with blown up ten times the size. The park is full of wildflowers and birds this time of year, which is spring here in the high country. The activities here seem to be hiking the mountains or green valleys, touring the art galleries, or enjoying the restaurants and brew pubs. The town is picture perfect with a sandstone church with rooster weather vane, beautiful town square, open air shops and cafes and NO BARBED WIRE anywhere. The spot is great for coots like us but is also full of young couples and motor cyclists who drive from JoBurg (3 hours) for the day to enjoy the gorgeous setting. Tonight we will be celebrating New Years Eve at the Grouse and Claret, and open air restaurant where the evening temperature is 75 degrees. Perfect relaxing and enjoying the setting.
After touring the Midlands Meander for four days, we spent two days at Royal Natal National Park in the north end of the Drakensberg Mountains. The Amphitheater mountain formation stretches 8 km across and is 10000ft high. The light and shadows of the mountains change continually all day, creating mystery and awe. It begs to be climbed but is often shrouded in fog and mist. We caught glimpses of the forms, waterfalls, cascades and huge rock slabs as we hiked the Tugela gorge, a famous valley between the rock slabs. The Drakensberg is named for its sharp peaks like Dragons teeth; the Zulus named it after spear heads.
Tomorrow we head back to Mountain High to plunge back into our jobs and try to squeeze some productivity and sustainability out of the next 6 months. Our goal is to teach computer literacy to any staff member or resident that wants to learn how to use a computer. However, the teaching will be after work hours so it will be interesting to see if anyone shows up. As the weather grows colder I am hoping to have a marathon fleece hat sale, with proceeds slated for the continuation of the occupational therapy program after we go home. We are already feeling the imperative and push for limited time left and not much to show for our efforts. We have learned a huge amount from the experience and a different value system, especially pertaining to urgency and time schedules. We hope when we return to America, our new skills of patience and flexibility will go with us.
Saturday, December 22, 2007
Merry Christmas from the Midlands Meander
Giraffes and Zebras at Umgeni Reserve
Brendon eating Lithchi nuts on the porch of our Rondaval
Wildflowers on the trail at Umgeni Reserve
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