Sunday, November 25, 2007
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Thanksgiving with Ambassador Bost
Peace Corps service is not all hair shirt and taxi ordeals. Due to the generosity of the American Ambassador Bost, Peace Corps volunteers were invited to his residence for an All American Thanksgiving Dinner! This feast assuaged the homesickness for the volunteers and marines who attended. Plus it was a wonderful party!
The long trip to Pretoria was worth the effort to be greeted by Ambassador Bost and his wife at their Dutch style home in Waterkloof. The residence stands on a bluff that overlooks the City with a tall American flag flying proudly. This was the first American flag that I have seen in almost two years and it made me feel nostalgic. The home was furnished in beautiful antiques and had that American feel to it that resonates with comfort, style and simplicity. The Ambassador cleared out all of the furniture in his living room to set up tables for the delicious meal that included every imaginable Thanksgiving menu item plus more-turkey, ham, dressing, waldorf salad, green beans, macaroni and cheese, beets and tomatoes, homade cranberry sauce, yams, mashed potatoes and five deserts including ginger cheesecake. The big-hearted Ambassador opens his home every year and knows the appetites of Peace Corps volunteers who are homesick for American cooking. What a gracious host! After dinner the music and dancing started. He and his wife encouraged everyone to participate and let loose on this special day. It felt good to be with Americans and their style of hospitality. The day seemed familiar and bespoke of many holidays at home. The memory will be treasured!
The day was not without its mishaps, however. We received our initiation into the crime of South Africa. Like Thanksgiving at home where Brendon and I go for a run or long walk in the morning after the turkey is in the oven, we set off to walk through the nearby botanical gardens with another PC volunteer. We had been told that the road had a tricky overpass just before the garden starts so were glad to enter a gate for a wetlands preserve next to the botanic gardens. I was determined to see the botanic gardens as the flowers are in full bloom this time of year. Brendon was getting blisters from wearing flip flops so I ran ahead to see if the birds and flowers were worth the effort. He and the other volunteer decided to turn back. After a short time I looked back them and saw that a man had come on the scene and Brendon was waving his arms and yelling. I ran back as the man took off. He had come from the road with a beer bottle in his hand and demanded food and money. He then broke the bottle into sharp shards and said he would kill Brendon if he did not give him money. Brendon and the other volunteer gave him their money and cell phone and the desperate man ran away. No one was physically hurt. However, our spirits were shattered and we felt very stupid for thinking we could take a walk in a nature preserve on a beautiful day. Wrong! Even in groups at 10am in the morning the city is not safe for walking. The crime element must be dealt with if South Africa wishes to have a free society. Security systems and protection for citizens have an extraordinarily high cost for this Country. There is no quick fix for the 50% unemployment as much of the population has no job skills and is poorly educated.
The rest of Thanksgiving weekend was spent with medical appointments and city pleasures. We caught two movies “Beowulf” and “River Queen” which were both delights.
The long trip to Pretoria was worth the effort to be greeted by Ambassador Bost and his wife at their Dutch style home in Waterkloof. The residence stands on a bluff that overlooks the City with a tall American flag flying proudly. This was the first American flag that I have seen in almost two years and it made me feel nostalgic. The home was furnished in beautiful antiques and had that American feel to it that resonates with comfort, style and simplicity. The Ambassador cleared out all of the furniture in his living room to set up tables for the delicious meal that included every imaginable Thanksgiving menu item plus more-turkey, ham, dressing, waldorf salad, green beans, macaroni and cheese, beets and tomatoes, homade cranberry sauce, yams, mashed potatoes and five deserts including ginger cheesecake. The big-hearted Ambassador opens his home every year and knows the appetites of Peace Corps volunteers who are homesick for American cooking. What a gracious host! After dinner the music and dancing started. He and his wife encouraged everyone to participate and let loose on this special day. It felt good to be with Americans and their style of hospitality. The day seemed familiar and bespoke of many holidays at home. The memory will be treasured!
The day was not without its mishaps, however. We received our initiation into the crime of South Africa. Like Thanksgiving at home where Brendon and I go for a run or long walk in the morning after the turkey is in the oven, we set off to walk through the nearby botanical gardens with another PC volunteer. We had been told that the road had a tricky overpass just before the garden starts so were glad to enter a gate for a wetlands preserve next to the botanic gardens. I was determined to see the botanic gardens as the flowers are in full bloom this time of year. Brendon was getting blisters from wearing flip flops so I ran ahead to see if the birds and flowers were worth the effort. He and the other volunteer decided to turn back. After a short time I looked back them and saw that a man had come on the scene and Brendon was waving his arms and yelling. I ran back as the man took off. He had come from the road with a beer bottle in his hand and demanded food and money. He then broke the bottle into sharp shards and said he would kill Brendon if he did not give him money. Brendon and the other volunteer gave him their money and cell phone and the desperate man ran away. No one was physically hurt. However, our spirits were shattered and we felt very stupid for thinking we could take a walk in a nature preserve on a beautiful day. Wrong! Even in groups at 10am in the morning the city is not safe for walking. The crime element must be dealt with if South Africa wishes to have a free society. Security systems and protection for citizens have an extraordinarily high cost for this Country. There is no quick fix for the 50% unemployment as much of the population has no job skills and is poorly educated.
The rest of Thanksgiving weekend was spent with medical appointments and city pleasures. We caught two movies “Beowulf” and “River Queen” which were both delights.
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Community HIV Outreach Project Replaces Capacity Builder
Peace Corps volunteers, Susan and Brendon, explored the manifestation of their role as “NGO Capacity Builders” in a rural AID/TB hospital in Zululand, South Africa. This job title has mystified all volunteers in our PC group from the beginning of our service. After 1 ½ years of volunteer service, the jobs for our peers seem to range from receptionist at the NGO to Operations Manager at a rural hospital. We recently learned that the “Capacity Builder” job classification has evolved into a new project called CHOP “Community HIV Outreach Program.”
The week had it ups and downs, with one day experiencing deep satisfaction and enjoyment from our Peace Corps service and the next day, frustration and annoyance.
On Wednesday, Brendon and I hiked down into the Valley community to take photos of the Mountain High Mobile Clinic in action for an upcoming display at “Quality Day” for the District Health Dept. The day was stunningly beautiful with the Valley in full green, women carrying trees on their heads (twala) as they walked as talked and schoolgirls giddy with excitement as the school term ended. It was hard to believe our good fortune to be assigned to hike through the trees and rocky hillside as part of our jobs here. We met the Mobile Clinic as it came over the top of the mountain and parked under the large tree which serves as shade for the patients who come to receive treatment. The mobile clinic is one of the successes of Mountain High Hospital as it serves 14 extremely rural villages where there is no medical care available. Nurses diagnose, treat and care for many acute and chronic conditions, sometimes seeing more than 100 patients a day. Today the turnout was light at this first stop as the community had been given insufficient notice the clinic was coming, but the nurses did not get discouraged. The new nurse/driver turned the converted pickup truck around on the narrow steep dirt road and headed for the next site.
The next day the health department inspectors came to do an audit of the Hospital and the ambiguity of the Peace Corps role as “Capacity Builder” came to light. The director of the hospital was away for the day. Brendon had been sent to the monthly manager’s meeting for the district health. Thursday’s schedule for the Occupational Therapy Program for the patients is leather day with the men making simple sandals and the women small bags. In the middle of the lesson on how to glue the insole to the sole, the head nurse summoned me to the audit team to explain the hospital accounting/accountability process. I lacked the authority and responsibility to properly explain the process and was frustrated by being called upon to represent the hospital. Capacity building entails helping and supporting individuals that have the responsibility and authority to exercise those powers. The greatest satisfaction at this hospital has been teaching basic skills to AIDs patients and helping the administrative staff to learn modern office practices. This experience in dealing with health department auditors has given me great sympathy for the personnel in drug manufacturing companies in California who were called upon to answer for their corporate quality assurance programs but lacked the proper background to answer the complicated questions during the audits of my former career. I answered the questions in the most honest, correct fashion that I knew but was disturbed that I was not the best person to be doing this job and it was NOT capacity building as next year the auditors would be back and the Peace Corps volunteers would be home.
Today our positive experience in SA bounced back as we traveled to our shopping town to participate in our church’s annual bazaar held in front of the 150 year old historic church in the heart of town. I sold fleece hats and scarves while the church members held a “jumble sale” (rummage), cooked sausages/curry, and sold home baked goods and preserves. South Africa produces very delicious steamed puddings, scones, marmalades, cheese cakes and boers wors. The prices for the items at the jumble sale were low and lower so the customers left happy. The fleece hats for sustainability of the occupational therapy program at Mountain High also sold well so the day was a big success. The weather helped and the day was lot of fun.
The week had it ups and downs, with one day experiencing deep satisfaction and enjoyment from our Peace Corps service and the next day, frustration and annoyance.
On Wednesday, Brendon and I hiked down into the Valley community to take photos of the Mountain High Mobile Clinic in action for an upcoming display at “Quality Day” for the District Health Dept. The day was stunningly beautiful with the Valley in full green, women carrying trees on their heads (twala) as they walked as talked and schoolgirls giddy with excitement as the school term ended. It was hard to believe our good fortune to be assigned to hike through the trees and rocky hillside as part of our jobs here. We met the Mobile Clinic as it came over the top of the mountain and parked under the large tree which serves as shade for the patients who come to receive treatment. The mobile clinic is one of the successes of Mountain High Hospital as it serves 14 extremely rural villages where there is no medical care available. Nurses diagnose, treat and care for many acute and chronic conditions, sometimes seeing more than 100 patients a day. Today the turnout was light at this first stop as the community had been given insufficient notice the clinic was coming, but the nurses did not get discouraged. The new nurse/driver turned the converted pickup truck around on the narrow steep dirt road and headed for the next site.
The next day the health department inspectors came to do an audit of the Hospital and the ambiguity of the Peace Corps role as “Capacity Builder” came to light. The director of the hospital was away for the day. Brendon had been sent to the monthly manager’s meeting for the district health. Thursday’s schedule for the Occupational Therapy Program for the patients is leather day with the men making simple sandals and the women small bags. In the middle of the lesson on how to glue the insole to the sole, the head nurse summoned me to the audit team to explain the hospital accounting/accountability process. I lacked the authority and responsibility to properly explain the process and was frustrated by being called upon to represent the hospital. Capacity building entails helping and supporting individuals that have the responsibility and authority to exercise those powers. The greatest satisfaction at this hospital has been teaching basic skills to AIDs patients and helping the administrative staff to learn modern office practices. This experience in dealing with health department auditors has given me great sympathy for the personnel in drug manufacturing companies in California who were called upon to answer for their corporate quality assurance programs but lacked the proper background to answer the complicated questions during the audits of my former career. I answered the questions in the most honest, correct fashion that I knew but was disturbed that I was not the best person to be doing this job and it was NOT capacity building as next year the auditors would be back and the Peace Corps volunteers would be home.
Today our positive experience in SA bounced back as we traveled to our shopping town to participate in our church’s annual bazaar held in front of the 150 year old historic church in the heart of town. I sold fleece hats and scarves while the church members held a “jumble sale” (rummage), cooked sausages/curry, and sold home baked goods and preserves. South Africa produces very delicious steamed puddings, scones, marmalades, cheese cakes and boers wors. The prices for the items at the jumble sale were low and lower so the customers left happy. The fleece hats for sustainability of the occupational therapy program at Mountain High also sold well so the day was a big success. The weather helped and the day was lot of fun.
Sunday, November 11, 2007
A Day of Eland
After a week of heavy rain, fog and mist we were hesitant to travel to our shopping town for a soggy weekend. Its charms are clearly outdoor activities like game spotting on the hill, hiking or bird watching. However, having business in town and needing to go to the post office, we got up at 5 am, looked out the window and sighed at more fog and rain. By 6:10 am Mr. Zulu’s taxi was almost full due to the high school students completing their examinations and wanting to go home. We were fortunate to get the last two spots for the ride to town. Mr. Zulu drove very cautiously, demonstrating his expertise that anticipates every curve and unseen obstacle. The road is treacherous under ideal conditions with cows, goats and pedestrians appearing from nowhere, stalled cars and taxis racing each other to town.
Halfway down the mountain the fog lifted and our mood brightened at the sight of the gorgeous mountains, forests, badlands, and new spring flowers of Zululand. By the time we arrived in town, the sun was shining and our spirits were soaring. After our business was done we headed up the Vryheid Hill to see the game and new spring flora. The short hike to the game preserve was amply rewarded with many beautiful birds that have returned from the north. The big surprise was the herd of eland at the top of the hill enjoying the new grass. Usually game spotting requires hiking to the summit and then continuing down the slope to a plateau. The game look like brown rocks from the summit which start moving as one gets closer. Today the elands and impala were grazing on the fresh green grasses at the summit. Two solo bucks startled us in their huge magnificent forms silhouetted along the mountain ridge. They are among the largest of the antelopes and dwarfed the zebras nearby. Farther down on the slope we spotted more “brown rocks” which amazingly was a herd of 50 eland with their newborn young. They were grazing with impalas as escorts. The new mothers watched us intently and began to move away. We quietly back off and headed back to town.
Such is life in Africa as a Peace Corps volunteers. When you are discouraged and hate the conditions, amazing events occur and your hate is replaced with awe and love. Each day brings new experiences that may be raw but make one feel alive in contrast to the dull routines of life in the first world.
A conversation with a group of British tourists on Sat. night brought the reality of life in the first world and the lack of understanding about the scope of the AIDS pandemic. The Brits were part of a tour group that stops in Vryheid to tour the Anglo Boer War battlefields. They were incredulous when we explained our work as Peace Corps volunteers at Mountain High Hospital. “Are there really people sick with AIDS in this country” was their query. They had been in South Africa for two weeks and had no inkling of the ravages of this disease. In contrast, the disease came even closer than the patients whom I only know as sick people. A handsome heavyset hospital driver who charmed everyone with his clownish personality has grown very thin and come down with pneumonia. An office mate has lost weight drastically and is on ARVs. Both of these men are my friends and I am hurt as their countenance is gloomy and their eyes have lost their sparkle. Who is next to be emaciated, plagued with skin ailments, mouth sores and severe diarrhea? AIDS seems to zap one’s personality as people in their prime years (25years to 40) become literal skeletons of their former selves. All South Africans should be tested, if only to reduce the stigma. Fear of being labeled as HIV positive prevents people from being tested. Without a test they cannot obtain the ARV’s that will keep them healthy and productive.
Halfway down the mountain the fog lifted and our mood brightened at the sight of the gorgeous mountains, forests, badlands, and new spring flowers of Zululand. By the time we arrived in town, the sun was shining and our spirits were soaring. After our business was done we headed up the Vryheid Hill to see the game and new spring flora. The short hike to the game preserve was amply rewarded with many beautiful birds that have returned from the north. The big surprise was the herd of eland at the top of the hill enjoying the new grass. Usually game spotting requires hiking to the summit and then continuing down the slope to a plateau. The game look like brown rocks from the summit which start moving as one gets closer. Today the elands and impala were grazing on the fresh green grasses at the summit. Two solo bucks startled us in their huge magnificent forms silhouetted along the mountain ridge. They are among the largest of the antelopes and dwarfed the zebras nearby. Farther down on the slope we spotted more “brown rocks” which amazingly was a herd of 50 eland with their newborn young. They were grazing with impalas as escorts. The new mothers watched us intently and began to move away. We quietly back off and headed back to town.
Such is life in Africa as a Peace Corps volunteers. When you are discouraged and hate the conditions, amazing events occur and your hate is replaced with awe and love. Each day brings new experiences that may be raw but make one feel alive in contrast to the dull routines of life in the first world.
A conversation with a group of British tourists on Sat. night brought the reality of life in the first world and the lack of understanding about the scope of the AIDS pandemic. The Brits were part of a tour group that stops in Vryheid to tour the Anglo Boer War battlefields. They were incredulous when we explained our work as Peace Corps volunteers at Mountain High Hospital. “Are there really people sick with AIDS in this country” was their query. They had been in South Africa for two weeks and had no inkling of the ravages of this disease. In contrast, the disease came even closer than the patients whom I only know as sick people. A handsome heavyset hospital driver who charmed everyone with his clownish personality has grown very thin and come down with pneumonia. An office mate has lost weight drastically and is on ARVs. Both of these men are my friends and I am hurt as their countenance is gloomy and their eyes have lost their sparkle. Who is next to be emaciated, plagued with skin ailments, mouth sores and severe diarrhea? AIDS seems to zap one’s personality as people in their prime years (25years to 40) become literal skeletons of their former selves. All South Africans should be tested, if only to reduce the stigma. Fear of being labeled as HIV positive prevents people from being tested. Without a test they cannot obtain the ARV’s that will keep them healthy and productive.
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Test Market
Going retail is not so easy as I discovered today when I took the stash of 100 fleece hats and scarves to the only local place of trade- Pension Day at Mountain High. For the last two weeks the Peace Corps funded sewing machines have been cranking out the fleece – hats and scarves in all sizes and prints with even dull navy for the school set. The endeavor is to make the Occupational Therapy Program at Mountain High Hospital sustainable after the Peace Corps volunteers go home. Selling 1500 hats and 1000 scarves before Winter (March 2008) would create a fund that will pay for the Volunteer Coordinator and handcraft materials for the AIDs patients for the future. Without a sustainability program, the patients, who are confined here for 3 months, will have nothing to do with their long days and may abscond.
The hats have unique finishing touches like pom poms or tailored buttons and are a great bargain at R10 for adult and R8 for the kids. ($1.50, $1.10). So with high hopes and boxes of newly created chapeau, I headed off to the Pension Day melee held at a tuck shop/liquor store 3km from the hospital.
A word about Pension Day! In South Africa the retired, disabled and unemployed mothers of small children must physically present themselves to a neighborhood site and sign for their stipends. Pension Day brings out the hawkers and thieves so the event is well attended by the marketeers ( including Mountain High Hospital with fleece treasures) and those wanting to take advantage of the populace receiving their pensions plus a coterie of welfare workers and security guards. Pension distribution points in very rural areas, such as our home, are defined by geographic features including large trees, creeks, or tuck shops. (very small mini marts). This seemed like a good place to test the market for the fleece hats, not to mention that the pensioners have cash in hand and come ready to spend at the displays set up on the ground around the distribution points. Pension Day is unmistakable in South Africa as a cow pasture next to a large tree is taken over by entrepreneurs selling fresh fruit, sewing supplies, underwear, children’s school uniforms, and always muti (herbal medicines).
The forum for the first sale of the fleece product seemed perfect – close to home, an audience that would be familiar with the Hospital, buyers with cash in hand, and cold weather to boost sales. However, the cold weather turned very wet early in the day. The Volunteer Coordinator showed up but had to go home with the flu and the day grew colder and stormier. The Jabule group had a Bingo Game as planned but many patients stayed in their beds on this cold wet day. I was not to be deterred from my test market and at 1 pm jumped at the chance for transport to the Pension Point, loaded with boxes and bags of hats and scarves.
By the time we arrived at the small tuck shop the rain was coming down in torrents and I was unwilling to join the hawkers with their wares laid on tarps next to the dirt road leading to the tuck shop as I did not want to get sopping wet and ruin the my stock. The driver let me off in front of the tuck shop. I grabbed the two boxes, one plastic bag of goods and the black plastic chair that I planned to use for display and ran into the small covered porch in front of the tuck shop. There was just enough room for the chair and me to stand in the crowd enjoying pension day. Unfortunately the tuck shop shares the porch with the only liquor store in the area and the patrons were already feeling the joys of Pension Day. I set up my small sign and samples of the beautiful fleece. Several well juiced young men sauntered up to see what was up. Trouble!!! The young men brought out the young women who started to titter. Flashes of fleece bolted before my eyes. Gales of laughter belted out. This was not the target market or optimal market conditions. One young man started a conversation about the hats while another skirted around the side. Finally, a go-go walked up and told me to stack all of the merchandise and put it back in the plastic bag. She helped me load in back into the containers and told me that she was the mother of the young girl who had tried to teach me Zulu a year ago when we first came to South Africa. She then held up the hats and made two sales. A man came forward and greeted me as Jabule, my nickname meaning happiness. He had been a patient at the hospital a few months ago and participated in the handcrafts program. Of course he was not interest in purchasing any fleece as weekly he sewed his own hats and scarves but his kindness was appreciated in this audience. After an hour, only a few more hats were sold. The driver from the Hospital appeared and it was time to go. I loaded my stock in the back of the pick-up and headed home. At the gate the driver stopped to let off some passengers. After he parked in the grounds I tried to retrieve my remaining stock of hats and scarves and discovered that one box was missing. The driver shook his head and pointed back to the gate. I ran to the gate and found the box sitting in the mud with the lid off. All of the hats were intact inside.
So how does the income generation project look at the end of this stormy day?
I believe my location was not the best as it was in direct competition with liquor sales but the afternoon was certainly a learning experience. Never do this as a solo! Never do this on a stormy day! Never get near liquor sales! And for sure try again as the fleece products were initiated by the local populace and meet a need.
The hats have unique finishing touches like pom poms or tailored buttons and are a great bargain at R10 for adult and R8 for the kids. ($1.50, $1.10). So with high hopes and boxes of newly created chapeau, I headed off to the Pension Day melee held at a tuck shop/liquor store 3km from the hospital.
A word about Pension Day! In South Africa the retired, disabled and unemployed mothers of small children must physically present themselves to a neighborhood site and sign for their stipends. Pension Day brings out the hawkers and thieves so the event is well attended by the marketeers ( including Mountain High Hospital with fleece treasures) and those wanting to take advantage of the populace receiving their pensions plus a coterie of welfare workers and security guards. Pension distribution points in very rural areas, such as our home, are defined by geographic features including large trees, creeks, or tuck shops. (very small mini marts). This seemed like a good place to test the market for the fleece hats, not to mention that the pensioners have cash in hand and come ready to spend at the displays set up on the ground around the distribution points. Pension Day is unmistakable in South Africa as a cow pasture next to a large tree is taken over by entrepreneurs selling fresh fruit, sewing supplies, underwear, children’s school uniforms, and always muti (herbal medicines).
The forum for the first sale of the fleece product seemed perfect – close to home, an audience that would be familiar with the Hospital, buyers with cash in hand, and cold weather to boost sales. However, the cold weather turned very wet early in the day. The Volunteer Coordinator showed up but had to go home with the flu and the day grew colder and stormier. The Jabule group had a Bingo Game as planned but many patients stayed in their beds on this cold wet day. I was not to be deterred from my test market and at 1 pm jumped at the chance for transport to the Pension Point, loaded with boxes and bags of hats and scarves.
By the time we arrived at the small tuck shop the rain was coming down in torrents and I was unwilling to join the hawkers with their wares laid on tarps next to the dirt road leading to the tuck shop as I did not want to get sopping wet and ruin the my stock. The driver let me off in front of the tuck shop. I grabbed the two boxes, one plastic bag of goods and the black plastic chair that I planned to use for display and ran into the small covered porch in front of the tuck shop. There was just enough room for the chair and me to stand in the crowd enjoying pension day. Unfortunately the tuck shop shares the porch with the only liquor store in the area and the patrons were already feeling the joys of Pension Day. I set up my small sign and samples of the beautiful fleece. Several well juiced young men sauntered up to see what was up. Trouble!!! The young men brought out the young women who started to titter. Flashes of fleece bolted before my eyes. Gales of laughter belted out. This was not the target market or optimal market conditions. One young man started a conversation about the hats while another skirted around the side. Finally, a go-go walked up and told me to stack all of the merchandise and put it back in the plastic bag. She helped me load in back into the containers and told me that she was the mother of the young girl who had tried to teach me Zulu a year ago when we first came to South Africa. She then held up the hats and made two sales. A man came forward and greeted me as Jabule, my nickname meaning happiness. He had been a patient at the hospital a few months ago and participated in the handcrafts program. Of course he was not interest in purchasing any fleece as weekly he sewed his own hats and scarves but his kindness was appreciated in this audience. After an hour, only a few more hats were sold. The driver from the Hospital appeared and it was time to go. I loaded my stock in the back of the pick-up and headed home. At the gate the driver stopped to let off some passengers. After he parked in the grounds I tried to retrieve my remaining stock of hats and scarves and discovered that one box was missing. The driver shook his head and pointed back to the gate. I ran to the gate and found the box sitting in the mud with the lid off. All of the hats were intact inside.
So how does the income generation project look at the end of this stormy day?
I believe my location was not the best as it was in direct competition with liquor sales but the afternoon was certainly a learning experience. Never do this as a solo! Never do this on a stormy day! Never get near liquor sales! And for sure try again as the fleece products were initiated by the local populace and meet a need.
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