Friday, July 27, 2007
Saturday, July 21, 2007
Zesty Zanzibar
To mark the halfway point in our Peace Corps Service, Brendon and I hustled off to Zanzibar (Spice Island) for some fun in the sun at a beach resort on the Indian Ocean. Travel from South Africa to Tanzania was only 4 hours but the countries seem like world’s apart.
We flew from Johannesburg to Zanzibar via Dar Es Salaam, arriving at night to an airport right out of “Casablanca”, with old lettered signage and a few tired government types to issue visas. Our checked luggage was hauled off the airplane and hand carried unto some flat benches so in minutes we were on our way to our beach hotel, one hour north of the airport. Zanzibar, an island about 40 miles long and 15 miles wide, is a UN World Heritage Site famous for the palaces in its capital of Stone Town, built 150 years ago from the riches of the Sultan’s slave trade. Zanzibar is reportedly one of the safest places in Africa and a winner for travel because of the gorgeous beaches, the warm water and the historical treasures of Stone Town.
The Oman Arabs and British colonial rule have both left their imprints with many of the Victorian-Arabic monumental buildings designed by a British architect (Sinclair) who “went native” and increasing used Arabic themes and appointments in his designs. Since a revolution against the sultans in 1964, the numerous palaces and government edifices have fallen into disrepair but philanthropic groups are beginning to restore the grand old dames. The impressive government buildings and waterfront palaces are jettisoned with tiny alleys, making shopping in the byways interesting, albeit a bit touristy. The island is flat, verdant, and fertile with spices grown on small farms in the interior.
For two weary soles coming from a country where everyone is home at night due to worries about crime, our after dark trip from the airport was a delight watching the locals hang out on the street shopping, gossiping, meeting friends and enjoying the warm air. The streets reminded me of islands in the Caribbean with small stalls and restaurants facing directly onto the road. Piles of fruit, curries, bicycle tires, mealie and household staples were offered to passerbys. The women create a mélange of color and movement in their colorful geometric two piece kanga skirt and veil, which often has a Muslim proverb on the facing.
Zanzibar is situated on the equator and has year round warm temperatures, welcome to folks from winter in South Africa. The resort seemed to be in harmony with the local villagers as they both benefit from the sea and the hotel provides employment for the village. Although the beach resort had an international flavor with water sports, beach lounges, pools and amenities including tea at four attended by a cheerful woman making crepes with chocolate sauce, it shares the beach with the neighboring fishing village. When the tide is out the local woman tend their seaweed crops, which cling to small sticks imbedded in the sand. The men fish from the reef with traps, spears, and line. When the tide comes in all evidence of the seaweed farms disappears under the surf and the hotel residents swim in the warm water. A walk out to the reef at low tide gives great pleasure from tidepools with colorful small fish, starfish, coral, the dhow (handmade boats) sitting still on the sand and perfectly clear water. The seaweed industry is nonpolluting and an added interest to the amazing visual scene of swaying palms, perfect white sand, turquoise water, beautifully dressed Muslim women sitting in the shallow surf harvesting their crops, marine blue skies studded with billowy clouds. In short fashion the white billows turn to black storm clouds and light rain passes over the island.
The resort is international land in one of Africa’s poorest countries. For folks in the Peace Corps, the high prices catch one off guard. The dollar is king and it is ironic that our first job here was to change rand into dollars. A second shock came when the posted price for a cab to historic Stone Town was $60 one way. This is where Peace Corps experience came in handy as a 4 km walk down the road to the local village produced a ride to town for less than one dollar in a Daladala. The Daladala leaves every 10 minutes and is always full. An open air truck is converted to convenient, economical transportation by decorating the sides with wrought iron, adding a canopy with floral designs and horseshoe benches for the passengers. Passengers greet one another and slide together to make room for the trip to town. A young conductor stands at the back on the fender and bangs the truck three times when it is safe for the driver to proceed. Interesting to note that most countries of the world provide cheap, efficient transportation for local residents whether it be jitneys, tuk tuks, combies, or DalaDalas and are available for adventurous tourists to connect with the locals.
No trip to Zanzibar is complete without a tour of the spice farms. The spices grow in the jungle and are harvested for cash crops. Nutmeg is king but annatto, cinnamon, garlic, vanilla, ginger, and cloves thrive in the humid climate. The tour consists of a guide leading one through the forest to a stand of trees, breaking off a fruit, vine, flower or bark and crushing the substance with the question as to what spice was in his hand. One surprise was cinnamon where the bark, root and leaf all have uses and distinctive smells. Prickly annatto flowers were crushed producing a beautiful red powder used for cosmetics and hair dye.
Zanzibar contrasts with South Africa in that there are no industries on this island and the residents are much poorer than SA’s. Prices for food are very high. The village people live in mud and rock huts with thatched roofs. The Country has developed tourism as a quick fix for its poverty but the development has caused deforestation of many areas. . As in most Muslim countries in Africa, the HIV infection rate is lower than the non-Muslim countries but HIV and Malaria are serious health problems. No vaccine is available for malaria although it is one of Africa’s biggest killers. Prevention of malaria requires sleeping under mosquito nets, spraying, prophylactic medicine and insect repellents. All of these measures are available to affluent tourists, but the locals do not have these preventive measures at the ready. Malaria can be eradicated from a country with a will to stop this killer disease- better yet, drug manufacturer’s could develop a vaccine. As it is, Malaria debilitates the working poor and is a frequent killer of the population at large.
Zanzibar is a pleasure for tourists as the local residents are very kind to tourists and the mix of the exotic plus the familiar is welcome. Beaches and cities seem very safe and one quickly stops looking around for unsavory characters who might want your bag or cell phone. A beautiful island getaway!
We flew from Johannesburg to Zanzibar via Dar Es Salaam, arriving at night to an airport right out of “Casablanca”, with old lettered signage and a few tired government types to issue visas. Our checked luggage was hauled off the airplane and hand carried unto some flat benches so in minutes we were on our way to our beach hotel, one hour north of the airport. Zanzibar, an island about 40 miles long and 15 miles wide, is a UN World Heritage Site famous for the palaces in its capital of Stone Town, built 150 years ago from the riches of the Sultan’s slave trade. Zanzibar is reportedly one of the safest places in Africa and a winner for travel because of the gorgeous beaches, the warm water and the historical treasures of Stone Town.
The Oman Arabs and British colonial rule have both left their imprints with many of the Victorian-Arabic monumental buildings designed by a British architect (Sinclair) who “went native” and increasing used Arabic themes and appointments in his designs. Since a revolution against the sultans in 1964, the numerous palaces and government edifices have fallen into disrepair but philanthropic groups are beginning to restore the grand old dames. The impressive government buildings and waterfront palaces are jettisoned with tiny alleys, making shopping in the byways interesting, albeit a bit touristy. The island is flat, verdant, and fertile with spices grown on small farms in the interior.
For two weary soles coming from a country where everyone is home at night due to worries about crime, our after dark trip from the airport was a delight watching the locals hang out on the street shopping, gossiping, meeting friends and enjoying the warm air. The streets reminded me of islands in the Caribbean with small stalls and restaurants facing directly onto the road. Piles of fruit, curries, bicycle tires, mealie and household staples were offered to passerbys. The women create a mélange of color and movement in their colorful geometric two piece kanga skirt and veil, which often has a Muslim proverb on the facing.
Zanzibar is situated on the equator and has year round warm temperatures, welcome to folks from winter in South Africa. The resort seemed to be in harmony with the local villagers as they both benefit from the sea and the hotel provides employment for the village. Although the beach resort had an international flavor with water sports, beach lounges, pools and amenities including tea at four attended by a cheerful woman making crepes with chocolate sauce, it shares the beach with the neighboring fishing village. When the tide is out the local woman tend their seaweed crops, which cling to small sticks imbedded in the sand. The men fish from the reef with traps, spears, and line. When the tide comes in all evidence of the seaweed farms disappears under the surf and the hotel residents swim in the warm water. A walk out to the reef at low tide gives great pleasure from tidepools with colorful small fish, starfish, coral, the dhow (handmade boats) sitting still on the sand and perfectly clear water. The seaweed industry is nonpolluting and an added interest to the amazing visual scene of swaying palms, perfect white sand, turquoise water, beautifully dressed Muslim women sitting in the shallow surf harvesting their crops, marine blue skies studded with billowy clouds. In short fashion the white billows turn to black storm clouds and light rain passes over the island.
The resort is international land in one of Africa’s poorest countries. For folks in the Peace Corps, the high prices catch one off guard. The dollar is king and it is ironic that our first job here was to change rand into dollars. A second shock came when the posted price for a cab to historic Stone Town was $60 one way. This is where Peace Corps experience came in handy as a 4 km walk down the road to the local village produced a ride to town for less than one dollar in a Daladala. The Daladala leaves every 10 minutes and is always full. An open air truck is converted to convenient, economical transportation by decorating the sides with wrought iron, adding a canopy with floral designs and horseshoe benches for the passengers. Passengers greet one another and slide together to make room for the trip to town. A young conductor stands at the back on the fender and bangs the truck three times when it is safe for the driver to proceed. Interesting to note that most countries of the world provide cheap, efficient transportation for local residents whether it be jitneys, tuk tuks, combies, or DalaDalas and are available for adventurous tourists to connect with the locals.
No trip to Zanzibar is complete without a tour of the spice farms. The spices grow in the jungle and are harvested for cash crops. Nutmeg is king but annatto, cinnamon, garlic, vanilla, ginger, and cloves thrive in the humid climate. The tour consists of a guide leading one through the forest to a stand of trees, breaking off a fruit, vine, flower or bark and crushing the substance with the question as to what spice was in his hand. One surprise was cinnamon where the bark, root and leaf all have uses and distinctive smells. Prickly annatto flowers were crushed producing a beautiful red powder used for cosmetics and hair dye.
Zanzibar contrasts with South Africa in that there are no industries on this island and the residents are much poorer than SA’s. Prices for food are very high. The village people live in mud and rock huts with thatched roofs. The Country has developed tourism as a quick fix for its poverty but the development has caused deforestation of many areas. . As in most Muslim countries in Africa, the HIV infection rate is lower than the non-Muslim countries but HIV and Malaria are serious health problems. No vaccine is available for malaria although it is one of Africa’s biggest killers. Prevention of malaria requires sleeping under mosquito nets, spraying, prophylactic medicine and insect repellents. All of these measures are available to affluent tourists, but the locals do not have these preventive measures at the ready. Malaria can be eradicated from a country with a will to stop this killer disease- better yet, drug manufacturer’s could develop a vaccine. As it is, Malaria debilitates the working poor and is a frequent killer of the population at large.
Zanzibar is a pleasure for tourists as the local residents are very kind to tourists and the mix of the exotic plus the familiar is welcome. Beaches and cities seem very safe and one quickly stops looking around for unsavory characters who might want your bag or cell phone. A beautiful island getaway!
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Halftime!
One year ago on July 10, 2006 we vacated our home of 20 years to join the US Peace Corps as NGO Capacity Builders for AIDS in South Africa. Time has passed quickly with enjoyable experiences but many days are challenging with annoyances, frustrations and inconveniences. At the beginning of the training, we were somewhat incredulous that we could survive two years living in poverty conditions in a complex country. However, after reaching the half way mark and four seasons it looks like we are on our way to finishing our two years of service. Now is a good time to take stock and see what has been accomplished, where we have failed and how we have changed.
During our last days of training we were asked to write down our expectations for our service and then were told to take the paper, put it in a trash can and light a match. So many of us volunteers aspired to “Help the poor”, “Make a Difference”, “Use our Skills” or even in jest “Save the World.” In fact Capacity Building has often been a series of failed attempts at new projects or improved processes/procedures. Sometimes our presence has been a nuisance for the NGO as we do not understand many South African business, employee, or social customs, not to mention the language difficulties. Our style of attacking problems is different than the NGO and our attempts to create Tables with Itemized list of Improvements, Repairs, Purchases and Prioritization have not been embraced.
An attempt to grow food was a failure in spite of countless hours shoveling the hard sod, hoeing, and weeding. Travels and an invasion of goats wiped out all of our efforts. However the hospital manager took notice of the potential for food production and properly plowed the land, amended the soil, hired workers, repaired the fence and planted cabbage and spinach which are growing beautifully. Is a failed gardening attempt Capacity Building? Maybe in a small way
Our attempts at organizing the renovation projects in the hospital with prioritization and work schedules were met with sigh and silence but slowly the improvements have been made, with a different timetable and sequence of events than we envisioned but progress becoming apparent.
The two successful projects at the Hospital, the AIDS Orphans and Vulnerable Children’s camp held last week and the Occupational Therapy Program for patients were not conceivable as activities that might be the work of Capacity Builders or work that we might do. However these two projects (funded by US PEPFAR) have been the most satisfying part of our service, with tangible results. The compelling need for a way of dealing with the psycho-social problems of AIDS orphans and the lack of any activity for confined patients drove the projects to success. Although the seed money for these projects came from the US, the style of the outcome was distinctively African with a rolling, zigzag motion rather than a conscripted detailed Gann diagram.
The OVCs camp was a lesson in the goodwill of the Zulu community and their care for each other. Most of the labor was donated; the counselors committed to 5 days of training before the camp began. This was the first camp for OVCs in our area but the need is great. 51 out of thousands of children were able to attend and benefit from the life skills and empowerment. Our NGO has a history of helping the needy around the world so this job of helping young people find their way in life without parents is not a new story. The NGO does not believe in coddling the children. Rather they are given practical lessons in life, presented with physical challenges they can succeed at, joined with each other through team building, and empowered with the knowledge they are not alone in this task. Many others are in the same situation or even worse circumstances.
So if this sounds dry and like social babble, the camp was NOT! The kids were fun, enthusiastic and bonded with each other in a remarkable way. The older children helped the younger children. Not one child went home with even a bandaid on his finger. No complaints and No Behavior Problems! Hopefully this will be the start of an ongoing support program for the local OVCs. A drop in center with food and adult supervision is sorely needed. One hundred years ago Christian organizations provided schools and hospitals to remote communities in South Africa. Today the need is for care and empowerment for a new generation of children who will grow up without parents due to the AIDS crisis.
So, after one year how has our life changed? We are living a much simpler life and lifestyle. For example:
· We do not have insurance, car repairs or gas bills to pay
· When we travel we do not have to stop the mail, newspapers or worry about the yard
· We do not spend time in traffic jams or commuting. Our home is the back room of the office.
· We have no utility bills to worry about and our trash is burned
· Our trash is limited to two small plastic bags per week. In Palos Verdes we used to fill up three large cans per week plus one recycle container.
· In the last year we have used only 3 rolls of paper towels and one roll of plastic wrap and aluminum foil.
· Our one room flat can be cleaned in one hour. At home it was an all days job with four bedrooms, three baths and numerous knick knacks to dust
· We have one set of sheets for the bed and two towels rather than a linen closet full of sheets, towels and blankets. Guests are on their own
· We seldom work past 4 pm and have time to take beautiful walks through the mountain and forest trails surrounding our new home
· Homeowner jobs are not on the agenda. The only project we tackled was sealing the rotting windows with duct tape for the winter.
· Grocery shopping is a snap as we are limited to what we can carry down the dirt road and very simple cooking on the two burner hot plate
· Medical and dental care. Not an issue as we have not had a sick day since our arrival.
· Entertainment is simple and plentiful as we are plowing through the two boxes of books we shipped from the US
· Although Palos Verdes is a very quiet place to live it cannot compare to our new home with no telephones, television, stereo, UPS trucks or racing cars. (Of course PV does not have the 2am roosters that are the fly in the ointment)
What is the new worry? Many returned Peace Corps Volunteers state the return to the US is a big adjustment. We will see!
During our last days of training we were asked to write down our expectations for our service and then were told to take the paper, put it in a trash can and light a match. So many of us volunteers aspired to “Help the poor”, “Make a Difference”, “Use our Skills” or even in jest “Save the World.” In fact Capacity Building has often been a series of failed attempts at new projects or improved processes/procedures. Sometimes our presence has been a nuisance for the NGO as we do not understand many South African business, employee, or social customs, not to mention the language difficulties. Our style of attacking problems is different than the NGO and our attempts to create Tables with Itemized list of Improvements, Repairs, Purchases and Prioritization have not been embraced.
An attempt to grow food was a failure in spite of countless hours shoveling the hard sod, hoeing, and weeding. Travels and an invasion of goats wiped out all of our efforts. However the hospital manager took notice of the potential for food production and properly plowed the land, amended the soil, hired workers, repaired the fence and planted cabbage and spinach which are growing beautifully. Is a failed gardening attempt Capacity Building? Maybe in a small way
Our attempts at organizing the renovation projects in the hospital with prioritization and work schedules were met with sigh and silence but slowly the improvements have been made, with a different timetable and sequence of events than we envisioned but progress becoming apparent.
The two successful projects at the Hospital, the AIDS Orphans and Vulnerable Children’s camp held last week and the Occupational Therapy Program for patients were not conceivable as activities that might be the work of Capacity Builders or work that we might do. However these two projects (funded by US PEPFAR) have been the most satisfying part of our service, with tangible results. The compelling need for a way of dealing with the psycho-social problems of AIDS orphans and the lack of any activity for confined patients drove the projects to success. Although the seed money for these projects came from the US, the style of the outcome was distinctively African with a rolling, zigzag motion rather than a conscripted detailed Gann diagram.
The OVCs camp was a lesson in the goodwill of the Zulu community and their care for each other. Most of the labor was donated; the counselors committed to 5 days of training before the camp began. This was the first camp for OVCs in our area but the need is great. 51 out of thousands of children were able to attend and benefit from the life skills and empowerment. Our NGO has a history of helping the needy around the world so this job of helping young people find their way in life without parents is not a new story. The NGO does not believe in coddling the children. Rather they are given practical lessons in life, presented with physical challenges they can succeed at, joined with each other through team building, and empowered with the knowledge they are not alone in this task. Many others are in the same situation or even worse circumstances.
So if this sounds dry and like social babble, the camp was NOT! The kids were fun, enthusiastic and bonded with each other in a remarkable way. The older children helped the younger children. Not one child went home with even a bandaid on his finger. No complaints and No Behavior Problems! Hopefully this will be the start of an ongoing support program for the local OVCs. A drop in center with food and adult supervision is sorely needed. One hundred years ago Christian organizations provided schools and hospitals to remote communities in South Africa. Today the need is for care and empowerment for a new generation of children who will grow up without parents due to the AIDS crisis.
So, after one year how has our life changed? We are living a much simpler life and lifestyle. For example:
· We do not have insurance, car repairs or gas bills to pay
· When we travel we do not have to stop the mail, newspapers or worry about the yard
· We do not spend time in traffic jams or commuting. Our home is the back room of the office.
· We have no utility bills to worry about and our trash is burned
· Our trash is limited to two small plastic bags per week. In Palos Verdes we used to fill up three large cans per week plus one recycle container.
· In the last year we have used only 3 rolls of paper towels and one roll of plastic wrap and aluminum foil.
· Our one room flat can be cleaned in one hour. At home it was an all days job with four bedrooms, three baths and numerous knick knacks to dust
· We have one set of sheets for the bed and two towels rather than a linen closet full of sheets, towels and blankets. Guests are on their own
· We seldom work past 4 pm and have time to take beautiful walks through the mountain and forest trails surrounding our new home
· Homeowner jobs are not on the agenda. The only project we tackled was sealing the rotting windows with duct tape for the winter.
· Grocery shopping is a snap as we are limited to what we can carry down the dirt road and very simple cooking on the two burner hot plate
· Medical and dental care. Not an issue as we have not had a sick day since our arrival.
· Entertainment is simple and plentiful as we are plowing through the two boxes of books we shipped from the US
· Although Palos Verdes is a very quiet place to live it cannot compare to our new home with no telephones, television, stereo, UPS trucks or racing cars. (Of course PV does not have the 2am roosters that are the fly in the ointment)
What is the new worry? Many returned Peace Corps Volunteers state the return to the US is a big adjustment. We will see!
Sunday, July 01, 2007
Beached Pleasures
This weekend was an experience in Patience and Flexibility and Serendipity and Joy as the escape to the coast turned sour but the discovery of what is underfoot was explored and embraced. This is an allegory for life as oftentimes the Promised Land is delayed and the manna at arms length is available for the willing and able.
After a week of work at the hospital and facilitating the OVC (Aids orphans and vulnerable children) camp at our doorstep, we were ready for a break plus grocery shopping. Our plan was to catch the only bus out of town to the coast and hole up in Richards Bay for the weekend to get some warmer weather and civilization. After an hour of waiting for the Greyhound we were sorely disappointed to discover that the bus was fully booked and our escape from Vryheid was not going to happen. What to do for the weekend? A look at the local paper to determine the status of the government worker’s, teachers and nurses national strike brought an advertisement to our attention- Mpofini Game Preserve- Lodge 5 km from Vryheid plus lodging and hiking trails. A call to the Preserve landed us a booking (reservation). Transport to this lodge embodied the pleasure and burden of the Peace Corps. No car or private transportation was available but our site is in close proximity to amazing natural wonders. A call to the only local taxi company in our town brought some language and geographical confusion but within 30 minutes a taxi showed and we traveled the short distance to a remarkable and amazing game preserve/lodge. Plus the added benefit is that it met Peace Corps budget restrictions (R420 a night for two including breakfast - $60).
We arrived at this guarded, gated (electrical fences for the 12,000 hectares of private game park) and somewhat isolated game park by taxi to find an amazing collection of game, geology, and terrain. A family has held the property for 80 years but has recently developed it into a game preserve with rhinos, hippos, giraffes, impalas, warthogs, nyalas, and bok. In South Africa one can check into a hotel room at 8 am so we got out of the taxi and walked up through the thatched gate to the reception station. The clerk at the desk welcomed us but stated that there were two problems with the lodge accommodations and preserve- first, if we wanted to hike through the huge preserve we must be careful about the rhino couple as Mrs. R had just had a baby and she was very protective. The second problem was the Bush Wedding scheduled for 11am in the Wild Bush which would entail much of the staff. She also added that the Preserve would provide game drives if desired.
We walked the short distance from the Reception to our chalet, one of four perched on a hilltop high above the huge expanse of crater, rocky hilltops, plain, and acacia/succulent hillsides. This was the sounds of Africa-bird calls, brush and quiet. After leaving our Beach belongings (shorts, swimming attire, t-shirts) in the beautiful African decorated chalet (full bath, bed, deck overlooking the savannah) we traveled down the road to the bottom of the crater. Numerous impala and nyala jumped away in surprise. In the field many game were feeding without regard to our presence. We hiked up the side of the crater finding herds of zebras, which are skittish, shy and will run off together. Wart hogs chomped on the grass and were very fast on their feet as we approached. A trip though the wilds produced many herd of game. A herd of 12 adult and baby giraffes turned up at one road bend. The giraffes defend themselves by become motionless large bush trees that stared at us the intruders. We trudged back through the side roads and came upon the vehicles for the wedding. We did not want to intrude upon the wedding but could not help but take a peak as we spotted the site with a huge termite mound decorated with flowers as the altar, a pathway for the bride strewn with fall leaves, seating for the guests consisting of hay stacks, and the brides young attendants adorned in orange net fairy skirts. A Great Fall Celebration!
What could top this amazing hike through the preserve? At two pm the prospective son-in-law of the owner of the property showed up a jeep to take us to the back reaches of the property to see the newly acquired hippos. Game drive for R180 ($20). He explained his family’s plans to develop the property so that the property could be sustained in a natural and historical way as a place where game and man live in coexistence. (Game preserves are also a way of preserving land ownership). He drove us to the back reaches of the preserve where a family of three hippos live in a deep pond and appear to thrive with no natural enemies. They were enjoying themselves sunning on the bank of the pond and paid the vehicle no notice. Hippos actually kill more humans in Africa each year than lions but this family grouping seemed very benign. Their footprints around the pond were as big as soccer balls- the driver stated that they weigh 2.5 tons.
The high veld (higher ground) on the preserve also presented the corps of marching ostriches as 8 ostriches descended on the jeep in V formation. They danced in front on the jeep with their small heads held high and large bodies rambling along.
On the last part of the drive, the lookout was for Mrs. R and her baby. The driver explained that the rhinos cannot see very well but if they catch sight of an enemy, they can be very aggressive and dangerous. (This park has 3 white rhinos which are much less aggressive than the black rhinos). On the drive back we searched up and down and high and low for the rhino, but she was hiding for the day. Perhaps the wedding in the bush was too much for her.
Back in our chalet we perched on the deck and watched the night unfold. A full moon in the bush with the sounds of Africa providing the entertainment. A question came up-What if we had caught the bus to the promised land of civilization, warmth, shopping malls and first world conveniences. Do we often miss the most exotic and rewarding opportunity for the promise of comfort and entertainment?
The trip back to town today was also scary and challenging to determine if the private taxi would come a short distance and take us back to town. A call produced an almost unintelligible answer but in short order a taxi arrived and drove us to town in time to get Mr. Zulu’s taxi back to Mountain High before the rainstorm hit. (this week has been record cold and snow in SA).
What to think of private game parks and lodges? The land is preserved and the ecosystem is brought into balance (albeit an absence of predators). The animals are free to live in their habitat and appear to prosper. Opponents of the private game preserves stated that they are tax dodges for the landowners or ways of avoiding land distribution. On this weekend we enjoyed the beautiful scenery, the hiking opportunities and the low cost convenient way to enjoy nature so close to our shopping town.
After a week of work at the hospital and facilitating the OVC (Aids orphans and vulnerable children) camp at our doorstep, we were ready for a break plus grocery shopping. Our plan was to catch the only bus out of town to the coast and hole up in Richards Bay for the weekend to get some warmer weather and civilization. After an hour of waiting for the Greyhound we were sorely disappointed to discover that the bus was fully booked and our escape from Vryheid was not going to happen. What to do for the weekend? A look at the local paper to determine the status of the government worker’s, teachers and nurses national strike brought an advertisement to our attention- Mpofini Game Preserve- Lodge 5 km from Vryheid plus lodging and hiking trails. A call to the Preserve landed us a booking (reservation). Transport to this lodge embodied the pleasure and burden of the Peace Corps. No car or private transportation was available but our site is in close proximity to amazing natural wonders. A call to the only local taxi company in our town brought some language and geographical confusion but within 30 minutes a taxi showed and we traveled the short distance to a remarkable and amazing game preserve/lodge. Plus the added benefit is that it met Peace Corps budget restrictions (R420 a night for two including breakfast - $60).
We arrived at this guarded, gated (electrical fences for the 12,000 hectares of private game park) and somewhat isolated game park by taxi to find an amazing collection of game, geology, and terrain. A family has held the property for 80 years but has recently developed it into a game preserve with rhinos, hippos, giraffes, impalas, warthogs, nyalas, and bok. In South Africa one can check into a hotel room at 8 am so we got out of the taxi and walked up through the thatched gate to the reception station. The clerk at the desk welcomed us but stated that there were two problems with the lodge accommodations and preserve- first, if we wanted to hike through the huge preserve we must be careful about the rhino couple as Mrs. R had just had a baby and she was very protective. The second problem was the Bush Wedding scheduled for 11am in the Wild Bush which would entail much of the staff. She also added that the Preserve would provide game drives if desired.
We walked the short distance from the Reception to our chalet, one of four perched on a hilltop high above the huge expanse of crater, rocky hilltops, plain, and acacia/succulent hillsides. This was the sounds of Africa-bird calls, brush and quiet. After leaving our Beach belongings (shorts, swimming attire, t-shirts) in the beautiful African decorated chalet (full bath, bed, deck overlooking the savannah) we traveled down the road to the bottom of the crater. Numerous impala and nyala jumped away in surprise. In the field many game were feeding without regard to our presence. We hiked up the side of the crater finding herds of zebras, which are skittish, shy and will run off together. Wart hogs chomped on the grass and were very fast on their feet as we approached. A trip though the wilds produced many herd of game. A herd of 12 adult and baby giraffes turned up at one road bend. The giraffes defend themselves by become motionless large bush trees that stared at us the intruders. We trudged back through the side roads and came upon the vehicles for the wedding. We did not want to intrude upon the wedding but could not help but take a peak as we spotted the site with a huge termite mound decorated with flowers as the altar, a pathway for the bride strewn with fall leaves, seating for the guests consisting of hay stacks, and the brides young attendants adorned in orange net fairy skirts. A Great Fall Celebration!
What could top this amazing hike through the preserve? At two pm the prospective son-in-law of the owner of the property showed up a jeep to take us to the back reaches of the property to see the newly acquired hippos. Game drive for R180 ($20). He explained his family’s plans to develop the property so that the property could be sustained in a natural and historical way as a place where game and man live in coexistence. (Game preserves are also a way of preserving land ownership). He drove us to the back reaches of the preserve where a family of three hippos live in a deep pond and appear to thrive with no natural enemies. They were enjoying themselves sunning on the bank of the pond and paid the vehicle no notice. Hippos actually kill more humans in Africa each year than lions but this family grouping seemed very benign. Their footprints around the pond were as big as soccer balls- the driver stated that they weigh 2.5 tons.
The high veld (higher ground) on the preserve also presented the corps of marching ostriches as 8 ostriches descended on the jeep in V formation. They danced in front on the jeep with their small heads held high and large bodies rambling along.
On the last part of the drive, the lookout was for Mrs. R and her baby. The driver explained that the rhinos cannot see very well but if they catch sight of an enemy, they can be very aggressive and dangerous. (This park has 3 white rhinos which are much less aggressive than the black rhinos). On the drive back we searched up and down and high and low for the rhino, but she was hiding for the day. Perhaps the wedding in the bush was too much for her.
Back in our chalet we perched on the deck and watched the night unfold. A full moon in the bush with the sounds of Africa providing the entertainment. A question came up-What if we had caught the bus to the promised land of civilization, warmth, shopping malls and first world conveniences. Do we often miss the most exotic and rewarding opportunity for the promise of comfort and entertainment?
The trip back to town today was also scary and challenging to determine if the private taxi would come a short distance and take us back to town. A call produced an almost unintelligible answer but in short order a taxi arrived and drove us to town in time to get Mr. Zulu’s taxi back to Mountain High before the rainstorm hit. (this week has been record cold and snow in SA).
What to think of private game parks and lodges? The land is preserved and the ecosystem is brought into balance (albeit an absence of predators). The animals are free to live in their habitat and appear to prosper. Opponents of the private game preserves stated that they are tax dodges for the landowners or ways of avoiding land distribution. On this weekend we enjoyed the beautiful scenery, the hiking opportunities and the low cost convenient way to enjoy nature so close to our shopping town.
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