Enjoy New Year's! Peace in 2007!
We hit the road this week and were so excited to see some of South Africa, touring our province KwaZuluNatal AKA Zululand. After a week of fabulous game parks, pristine beaches, great resorts, Indiana Jones scenery, and family fun we are convinced that the Peace Corps is one of life’s greatest adventure and a whole lot of fun. We started our journey by taking a Greyhound bus ride to Richard’s Bay, 2 hours north of Durban and renting a car. Although we then had to backtrack to pick up our son in Joburg, it was nearly impossible to rent a car closer to home and the connections to JoBurg would ave put us in a dangerous place at 10pm at night. (many decisions in South Africa are made on the basis of safety) Our initial thought was to rent a four wheel drive vehicle to tackle the rough roads in the game parks, but the costs proved prohibitive and so we ventured forth in a Hyundai Sonata sedan. Richard’s Bay is a new city that was formerly just a bait station for St. Lucia National Seashore and Game Preserve. Today it is an industrial city with monkeys in the nature preserves, subdivisions without walls or electrified fences and a shopping mall at the heart of the city. Very first world!! The hotel garden looked just like Hawaii with thatched roofs, hibiscus, palms, pool, and ferns.
Our first stop after JoBurg was four nights at a beach house on Zinkwazi Beach for family Christmas and beach R and R. Turkey and ham dinner with dressing and cranberry sauce plus monkeys, hawks, and weaverbirds in the backyard for entertainment. Durban is famous for mouthwatering curries where mild means hot hot hot so we did not hesitate to try any curry offered. Our older son arrived on Christmas day to sunny tropical weather; we were glad we didn’t have to apologize for the thunderstorms that have been constant the last two months.
On to Zululand game resorts hoping that they would not disappoint. In fact, we toured four game preserves in four days and found three of the Big Five (elephants, rhinos, cape buffalo) plus numerous giraffes, zebras, impalas, tesserbes, nyala, wart hog, bush pig, wildebeest at close range. The graceful impalas joyfully chased each other with an elegance found in pretty pubescent ballet dancers and contrasted with the awkward gawky wildebeest that hump along rather than prance. Baby giraffes were spotted munching on thornbark trees supervised by their vigilant mothers. A quick visit to Umfolozi Park on the way to Durban airport yielded a rhino within 20 feet of the road causing one to quickly roll up the windows and stare in amazement at this prehistoric creature. Game spotting in the preserves is great sport and a good excuse to enjoy the amazing scenery consisting of jagged mountains covered with bush, aloes, thornbark trees and colored flowers. All eight eyes survey the terrain as an excited voice calls “Over there, Zebras! Hey to your right impalas caucassing.” The entrance to our hotel was canopied with four tall trees containing thousands of nests built by weaverbirds singing a chorus as guests arrive. The nests, which hang like Christmas ornaments, is constructed by the male and then inspected by the female for suitability. Nests that do not meet the female’s standards are lopped to the ground and the male rejected.
Touring the game parks in a small sedan is not without its challenges as the dirt roads are very rough and the recent rains required careful fording methods over the numerous creeks and Arizona bridges. Brendon’s methods (which proved successful) were to take the fords very slowly and smoothly, methodically driving without a wince or hesitation. The hyandai groaned and creaked from the low clearance and brush under the carriage but got us through the parks. Next time maybe we should rent a car with higher clearance or a ride on the tall canopied jeeps from the lodges in the area.
South Africa is a fantastic country for touring with great tourist facilities and hundreds of game preserves with accommodations for every pocket book ranging from cabins with pit facilities to deluxe hotels to air-conditioned tents with hard wood floors and bathtubs in the bush. It is difficult to understand how this beautiful country has been so hard hit with AIDS; the disease seems far away on this dream vacation. It is a little jarring to be staying in a hotel room that is larger than our flat at the hospital but after 11 days of first world travel we are looking forward to getting back to the task we came to do; work is also very pleasurable. At times I wondered what the Peace Corps purpose was for the five month lock down that prohibited travel outside our town. Today I understand the advantage of integrating into a small place and building from that experience. South Africa looks like a treasure chest waiting to be opened. Even so the rest of Africa. Come and join the fun!
Saturday, December 30, 2006
Sunday, December 24, 2006
2006 Gifts
06It is Christmas Eve in South Africa and we are celebrating with our son in a beach house around an hour’s drive north of Durban. That’s right, I said drive because our travel restrictions were lifted, we rented a car and we have been set loose on South Africa for the Christmas holidays. Brendon learned to drive on the left very quickly but frequently uses the windshield wipers as turn signals. The normalcy of life in a house at the beach surrounded by amazing flora and fauna is enjoyed as pure pleasure but is also somewhat jarring. It is another reminder of life for the privileged in South Africa. Interestingly enough, we are not happier or more content in these semi-luxurious surroundings, only more comfortable. And as was pointed out in earlier blogs, comfort is often not conducive to growth. The night is very warm and balmy and the beach community uncannily resembles Kailua beach, where we started our journey so there is some sense of irony as well as familiarity. We have a few gifts for each other but they do not compare with the abundant gifts that came our way this year. Some of the more poignant blessings include:
1. This fantastic opportunity to serve the US Peace Corps in South Africa
2. Experiencing a new country and culture from the inside out instead of the outside in as tourists do
3. Healthier lifestyle which has come from casting off our cars and walking where we need to go or taking public transportation
4. Intimate connection with new neighbors and coworkers and an understanding of their lives and values
5. Empathy with ordinary people who stand by the side of the road waiting for a ride, quiet their children, try to find meaning in their lives and demonstrate dignity in their daily activities
6. Appreciation for the infrastructure and communication blessings of the US and the ease of doing business in the First World
7. Patience and flexibility and the peace of mind that comes from giving up control over every detail of one’s life.
8. Appreciation for the gift of health and good appetite and unrestricted access to food.
9. Understanding the value of critical thinking and the debilitating effects from a lack of education
10. Appreciation for ubuntu (Isizulu) or ohana (Hawaiian) - the concept of caring and love for each other in a community
11. The pleasure of having an interesting, creative job to do and the empowerment to get the job done
12. The great feeling of satisfaction that we are in the right place and that God is watching over us as we endeavor to make the most of this opportunity
13. The support of family, friends, community and church who are caring for our home, finances, and sons
Another gift is the opportunity to get to know the patients as people and engage them into participating in our Jabule (happiness) recreational therapy group. Many patients have been discharged since the group began but their beds are filled with new patients who do not have a head scarf (induku) and are well enough to try a sewing or craft project. After they finish hemming the head scarf they are given the choice of making booties, a small quilt, a cloth hand bag or a knitting/crochet project. The discharged patients sometimes leave the hospital wearing garments that they hand sewed in the Jabule group so I was taken aback when I spotted one of the best seamstresses wearing a camisole made out of a bed sheet brought from the US. (Course one hopes that none of the women will abscond -the hospital term for TB patients who sneak out before completion or their therapy- because she could sew an outfit and sneak past the guards. The first week we were at Mountain High a robe and gown were spotted lying on the road to the hospital) the patients get homesick because they are so far from home; the craft projects help to cure the “bored patient” syndrome and teach some skills. The patients in Jabule group sewed 50 red and white cloth bags which will be filled with sundry items and given to the patients on Christmas day as a Christmas gift from the hospital. Thanks to everyone who has provided materials and ideas this year.
The Jabule group (also known as the Ubuntu Workers) had a great time making evergreen wreathes as Christmas decorations using an idea from the mothers group at St. Peters by the Sea. First a wreath form was fashioned from heavy wire, evergreens from the trees around the hospital were inserted into the frame and a red satin bow was tied onto the wreath. This project is not part of the Zulu culture but it sure was a lot of fun as the women walked around the hospital grounds collecting pine and cypress branches singing Christmas carols. Bow formation brought a lot of laughs as the women fumbled with the red satin ribbon but finally achieved mastery of the decorative bows.
The Mountain High Newletter was born this week and deigned the “Mountain Views”. The director wanted to include pictures of the hospital employees in an effort to increase circulation so the Bond’s spent a big chunk of time this week taking pictures of the staff, editing photos and getting the newsletter to print. The hospital employees were excited about the draft edition with their pictures as few of the employees have cameras or any technology equipment. They are astounded when I tell them that they could be doing their stats and monthly reports on personal computers in a few years. They are leary but also anxious to learn keyboarding and basic skills so our next project looks like IT classes for the masses. What a way to start the New Year!
1. This fantastic opportunity to serve the US Peace Corps in South Africa
2. Experiencing a new country and culture from the inside out instead of the outside in as tourists do
3. Healthier lifestyle which has come from casting off our cars and walking where we need to go or taking public transportation
4. Intimate connection with new neighbors and coworkers and an understanding of their lives and values
5. Empathy with ordinary people who stand by the side of the road waiting for a ride, quiet their children, try to find meaning in their lives and demonstrate dignity in their daily activities
6. Appreciation for the infrastructure and communication blessings of the US and the ease of doing business in the First World
7. Patience and flexibility and the peace of mind that comes from giving up control over every detail of one’s life.
8. Appreciation for the gift of health and good appetite and unrestricted access to food.
9. Understanding the value of critical thinking and the debilitating effects from a lack of education
10. Appreciation for ubuntu (Isizulu) or ohana (Hawaiian) - the concept of caring and love for each other in a community
11. The pleasure of having an interesting, creative job to do and the empowerment to get the job done
12. The great feeling of satisfaction that we are in the right place and that God is watching over us as we endeavor to make the most of this opportunity
13. The support of family, friends, community and church who are caring for our home, finances, and sons
Another gift is the opportunity to get to know the patients as people and engage them into participating in our Jabule (happiness) recreational therapy group. Many patients have been discharged since the group began but their beds are filled with new patients who do not have a head scarf (induku) and are well enough to try a sewing or craft project. After they finish hemming the head scarf they are given the choice of making booties, a small quilt, a cloth hand bag or a knitting/crochet project. The discharged patients sometimes leave the hospital wearing garments that they hand sewed in the Jabule group so I was taken aback when I spotted one of the best seamstresses wearing a camisole made out of a bed sheet brought from the US. (Course one hopes that none of the women will abscond -the hospital term for TB patients who sneak out before completion or their therapy- because she could sew an outfit and sneak past the guards. The first week we were at Mountain High a robe and gown were spotted lying on the road to the hospital) the patients get homesick because they are so far from home; the craft projects help to cure the “bored patient” syndrome and teach some skills. The patients in Jabule group sewed 50 red and white cloth bags which will be filled with sundry items and given to the patients on Christmas day as a Christmas gift from the hospital. Thanks to everyone who has provided materials and ideas this year.
The Jabule group (also known as the Ubuntu Workers) had a great time making evergreen wreathes as Christmas decorations using an idea from the mothers group at St. Peters by the Sea. First a wreath form was fashioned from heavy wire, evergreens from the trees around the hospital were inserted into the frame and a red satin bow was tied onto the wreath. This project is not part of the Zulu culture but it sure was a lot of fun as the women walked around the hospital grounds collecting pine and cypress branches singing Christmas carols. Bow formation brought a lot of laughs as the women fumbled with the red satin ribbon but finally achieved mastery of the decorative bows.
The Mountain High Newletter was born this week and deigned the “Mountain Views”. The director wanted to include pictures of the hospital employees in an effort to increase circulation so the Bond’s spent a big chunk of time this week taking pictures of the staff, editing photos and getting the newsletter to print. The hospital employees were excited about the draft edition with their pictures as few of the employees have cameras or any technology equipment. They are astounded when I tell them that they could be doing their stats and monthly reports on personal computers in a few years. They are leary but also anxious to learn keyboarding and basic skills so our next project looks like IT classes for the masses. What a way to start the New Year!
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
Merry Christmas Family and Friends
Blessings to all at Christmas 2006
We have been in South Africa for almost 5 months and are still trying to figure out the seasons, holidays and cycles of life. To the credit of South Africa, Christmas is downplayed with no jarring music in the stores, displays are muted, no guilt trips for parents worried about their children’s glee on the big day, and Christmas decorations delayed until Dec 10. Of course, we are separated from mainstream culture as we have no access to TV or general culture but the we are not bombarded with messages about black Friday when the red ink turns to black and retailers are smiling. South Africa does not have the Thanksgiving holiday as a gauge as to the proper start of Christmas decorations but benignly starts the season when Advent is fully underway.
We attended two Christmas parties this week which were similar in spirit although one was the annual Christmas celebration at the hospital with the Zulu staff and the other the Christmas lunch at the English speaking church in Vryheid. The Zulu hospital party was held outside with music, speeches and dancing from each attendee as they were called up to receive their Christmas gift. Both were well attended with all ages represented. Both had menus that centered on meat and plenty of it. The Zulu celebration feature a braai (barbeque with beef, chicken and wurst); the church featured lamb, pork, turkey, and beef. Meat is an obsession in this country and if you are planning a gathering you better have be friends with your local butcher which are as numerous as the funeral parlors. The beef is not marbled but in cut in thin slices, marinated and barbequed over an open fire. Both celebrations featured community and family with plenty of children running around and a good time for all. The Zulus had more interesting music, dance and speeches; the church members were better at flower designs and desert. Sadly the celebrations did not overlap. An attendee at the English speaking church party stated that the numerous ethnic, cultural and racial groups in South Africa do not know each other although they live side by side and respect each other.
Yesterday, Dec. 16 was the National Day of Reconciliation, but no one seemed to know how the holiday was celebrated in Vryheid. Brendon wryly suggested that it was the day when the whole country balanced their checkbooks. We went to town early yesterday, expecting to find the post office a zoo and shops crowded with Christmas shoppers, but were greeted with the quiet found only on New Years Day or Christmas in the US. This seemed unfathomable to us as American citizens- a holiday where the world shuts down 10 days before Christmas? What a true gift for the Christmas weary-a day off with forgiveness of all past injustices and reconciliation with those that have been grieved. This looks better than Thanksgiving. Of course it was not without its inconveniences as the restaurants and post office were closed. Our friends at the Christian hospital never mentioned the holiday or its significance; likewise the Christians at the church in town shrugged when asked about the holiday. It seems like a holiday without a recipient or participant. A check through our guidebooks did not reveal the history or tradition of this day. One more incident for Peace Corps volunteers of misunderstanding a cultural or historical event. A check on the internet shows this as a holiday with a complex checkered and bloody past but an idea to be considered by all civilized people. Thanksgiving comes easy, especially for those with a full refrigerator and gas in the tank. A check on the internet at my home church in Palos Verdes disclosed a sermon about Thanksgiving-the essence of Thankfulness is being grateful for faith, not for things. Forgiveness and reconciliation are difficult, especially with so many wrongs by all sides, extending over hundreds of years. The history of South Africa does not hold up many good guys; however it has been a democracy for 12 years with a proud citizenry that has led the world in peaceful revolutions.
Christmas will be very special for us as our two sons, Erik and Alex, are coming to South Africa to join us. Children are a blessing and a guarantee to keep one humble. Erik is in his second year at the Manhattan corporate law firm and is busy in the litigation department with insurance cases his specialty. Alex is a senior at UCLA, majoring in Philosophy, and is set to graduate in June. They are becoming our caretakers as we are the wandering children who are off on an adventure full of fun and service opportunities. Even after only 5 months we are starting to understand the WHY of this calling and further embrace the WOW! The days are interesting and challenging requiring every once of creativity and imagination that one can imagination. Plus they are full of surprises like the electrical storm that surrounds our flat at this moment on three sides with a light show that would amaze the most jaded. First an intensely hot humid day; then the wind picks up and the clouds darken. The power hesitates, then Darkness, Two bursts of lightning flickering through the venation blinds, crashes of thunder, restoration of power for a few brief seconds, repeat of darkness, cracks of lightning flashing on all sides like a Disney cartoon, thunder and the pouring rain on the tin roof that echoes through the cement walls of our home. The show repeats itself time and time again. On this night we are glad that we cannot travel after dark and are safe from the forces of mother nature who creates her own entertainment.
Merry Christmas to our family, friends and colleagues. Thank you for your support. We feel blessed to be here and hope to be a blessing to the people of South Africa. God bless you and your family in 2007!
With love, Susan and Brendon Bond
We have been in South Africa for almost 5 months and are still trying to figure out the seasons, holidays and cycles of life. To the credit of South Africa, Christmas is downplayed with no jarring music in the stores, displays are muted, no guilt trips for parents worried about their children’s glee on the big day, and Christmas decorations delayed until Dec 10. Of course, we are separated from mainstream culture as we have no access to TV or general culture but the we are not bombarded with messages about black Friday when the red ink turns to black and retailers are smiling. South Africa does not have the Thanksgiving holiday as a gauge as to the proper start of Christmas decorations but benignly starts the season when Advent is fully underway.
We attended two Christmas parties this week which were similar in spirit although one was the annual Christmas celebration at the hospital with the Zulu staff and the other the Christmas lunch at the English speaking church in Vryheid. The Zulu hospital party was held outside with music, speeches and dancing from each attendee as they were called up to receive their Christmas gift. Both were well attended with all ages represented. Both had menus that centered on meat and plenty of it. The Zulu celebration feature a braai (barbeque with beef, chicken and wurst); the church featured lamb, pork, turkey, and beef. Meat is an obsession in this country and if you are planning a gathering you better have be friends with your local butcher which are as numerous as the funeral parlors. The beef is not marbled but in cut in thin slices, marinated and barbequed over an open fire. Both celebrations featured community and family with plenty of children running around and a good time for all. The Zulus had more interesting music, dance and speeches; the church members were better at flower designs and desert. Sadly the celebrations did not overlap. An attendee at the English speaking church party stated that the numerous ethnic, cultural and racial groups in South Africa do not know each other although they live side by side and respect each other.
Yesterday, Dec. 16 was the National Day of Reconciliation, but no one seemed to know how the holiday was celebrated in Vryheid. Brendon wryly suggested that it was the day when the whole country balanced their checkbooks. We went to town early yesterday, expecting to find the post office a zoo and shops crowded with Christmas shoppers, but were greeted with the quiet found only on New Years Day or Christmas in the US. This seemed unfathomable to us as American citizens- a holiday where the world shuts down 10 days before Christmas? What a true gift for the Christmas weary-a day off with forgiveness of all past injustices and reconciliation with those that have been grieved. This looks better than Thanksgiving. Of course it was not without its inconveniences as the restaurants and post office were closed. Our friends at the Christian hospital never mentioned the holiday or its significance; likewise the Christians at the church in town shrugged when asked about the holiday. It seems like a holiday without a recipient or participant. A check through our guidebooks did not reveal the history or tradition of this day. One more incident for Peace Corps volunteers of misunderstanding a cultural or historical event. A check on the internet shows this as a holiday with a complex checkered and bloody past but an idea to be considered by all civilized people. Thanksgiving comes easy, especially for those with a full refrigerator and gas in the tank. A check on the internet at my home church in Palos Verdes disclosed a sermon about Thanksgiving-the essence of Thankfulness is being grateful for faith, not for things. Forgiveness and reconciliation are difficult, especially with so many wrongs by all sides, extending over hundreds of years. The history of South Africa does not hold up many good guys; however it has been a democracy for 12 years with a proud citizenry that has led the world in peaceful revolutions.
Christmas will be very special for us as our two sons, Erik and Alex, are coming to South Africa to join us. Children are a blessing and a guarantee to keep one humble. Erik is in his second year at the Manhattan corporate law firm and is busy in the litigation department with insurance cases his specialty. Alex is a senior at UCLA, majoring in Philosophy, and is set to graduate in June. They are becoming our caretakers as we are the wandering children who are off on an adventure full of fun and service opportunities. Even after only 5 months we are starting to understand the WHY of this calling and further embrace the WOW! The days are interesting and challenging requiring every once of creativity and imagination that one can imagination. Plus they are full of surprises like the electrical storm that surrounds our flat at this moment on three sides with a light show that would amaze the most jaded. First an intensely hot humid day; then the wind picks up and the clouds darken. The power hesitates, then Darkness, Two bursts of lightning flickering through the venation blinds, crashes of thunder, restoration of power for a few brief seconds, repeat of darkness, cracks of lightning flashing on all sides like a Disney cartoon, thunder and the pouring rain on the tin roof that echoes through the cement walls of our home. The show repeats itself time and time again. On this night we are glad that we cannot travel after dark and are safe from the forces of mother nature who creates her own entertainment.
Merry Christmas to our family, friends and colleagues. Thank you for your support. We feel blessed to be here and hope to be a blessing to the people of South Africa. God bless you and your family in 2007!
With love, Susan and Brendon Bond
Sunday, December 10, 2006
The Trip from Hail, Smugness and Life with Kermit
Last week I reported on that great feeling of satisfaction and peace that comes from living in a beautiful place with the work going well. Sometimes smugness is rewarded with a harsh dose of reality coupled with its cousin humility.
Our weekend started well enough, with Mr. Zulu waiting at the hospital gate at 6am cleaning the tires on his ancient and decrepit white van. The sliding door has a rope to keep it from sliding down the mountain when somewhat gives it too much push. The rear window sticker “Shemba is the way” identifies the taxi from all other taxis. Mr. Zulu never collects money until we are almost in town, just in case we break down and he has to find another driver. Mr. Zulu pointed us to the two front two seats which are preferred by many but carry the heavy responsibility of collecting the fares and giving change for the 16 other passengers. As we took off up the rock road, the rain started and Mr. Zulu turned on the wipers, which slowly swished a few turns and died. He then played with the switch but the wipers were done for the day and he drove the 80 km in pouring rain as I wiped the windshield to clean off the defrost. Vryheid has never been a more welcome site!
Our return from Vryheid today was not so easy. Due to lack of control over their lives and transport difficulties, the poor in this world must make innumerable daily decision and continually plan ahead in order to get where they need to go, to have enough money to achieve the transport desired, and to have a back up plan when the major mode of transportation fails. Today we did not plan well and did not have a back up plan when the desired transport failed.
After church this morning, we talked about skipping lunch in town and returning immediately to Vryheid by the paved road taxi, which lets us off 4 km from the hospital. Heavy rains were forecast for the entire weekend and the streets were flooded on Sat. night, forcing us to walk down the middle of the street for dinner and ford the flooded street. However at noontime there was a patch of blue in the skies and we looked forward to prawn curry and kingklip fish at one of the few restaurants open on Sunday afternoon. After a pleasant lunch in a deserted restaurant we walked back to the B and B to get our baggage and headed the one mile to the taxi stand. The sky suddenly turned very dark and the wind picked up. The Zulus on the street started running which we have never seen before as normally the Zulus have a slow dignified gait. As we neared the taxi stand, we noted taxis leaving the rank with only one passenger or only a driver, which is very unusual. A few hundred yards before reaching our taxi, the rain started. We started running for the taxi but ended up drenched by the time we got in and greeted the single passenger. The rain started coming down in sheets and within a few minutes hail the size of ping pong balls was bouncing off the van and covering the ground with white balls looking like snow. The noisy clanging balls banged against the windshield and a small crack appeared; then another and another crack creating a pattern of lace against the glass. The taxi driver outlined the cracked patterns with his hand and sighed. Brendon and I were relieved to be out of the storm, even though we were mad at ourselves for not exercising our better judgment and leaving earlier. After a short while the hail subsided and the rain retreated from its violent aggression. A young mother with baby in tow got in the taxi and asked if we had an umbrella. I did not but offered her my rain jacket which she put on her head and took off leaving the baby in the taxi. The 8 month old baby began looking around for its mother and fretting, so I started singing some of my old baby standbys, which probably caused more distress. Soon the mother returned with my jacket and a big smile. The taxi began filling with the usual stream of Sunday travelers off to visit relatives or return to work. Two more family groups got on with two more infants. At last the taxi drive charged up the engine and took off with a windshield looking like a giant spider web. Rain banged on the van as it charged through the flooded roads to home. Up the mountain in the pouring rain, 13 adults and 3 infants, bags, packages, packs and goodwill on the part of all. As the infants grew restless, the moms pulled out snacks including potato chips, hot dogs and French fries, which bother my mother instincts but were effective in quieting the babies.
We drove up the mountain and hit the famous mist coupled with rain and potholes in the road. Landmarks were hidden in the mist and rain so a new worry developed that we would miss our stop. The sign appeared out of nowhere and the driver of the van stopped. What a relief to be out of that van. We headed down the dirt road towards home and after a short walk were picked up by the director of the hospital in his Sunday best driving his Mercedes Benz. 500 yards from the hospital a tree had fallen across the road, blocking entrance. Brendon and I hopped out and hurried through the rain to our home where the wind was blowing like a hurricane but we were at last safe and dry. After I reach home I realized that our lunch had caused another casualty; a tooth had chipped, probably from the candy mints that come with the bill. Looks like another adventure dealing with South African dentists so stay tuned.
This week the Bond’s had a third roommate, Kermit the Toad. Tuesday night brought heavy rains and heavy visitors to the one room flat off the business office; lost keys, maintenance worker needing a flash light (torch) and the director at 930pm looking for a lost file on his laptop. As we finally tottled off to bed, Brendon noticed a toad sitting behind the door of our sleeping area which had probably entered our home during one of the evening visits. We were both too tired to deal with the toad so turned out the light. Late that night I was awakend by a snoring GRRRRIPPP, GRRRIPP, GRRIPP!! And on and on. Why didn’t we deal with the toad earlier? The next morning the toad had disappeared and we hoped he had found his way out. Late the second and third night Brendon woke up to the snoring sound of the toad and I found his excreta in the bathroom. By this time Brendon had found the toad in wildlife book and at least our new roommate had a name, Guttural Toad. Kermit was payback for writing blogs about the great sleep we are having during our Peace Corps tenure. Our colleagues provided toad removal guidance and sophomorically warned us not to make the snakes angry when we next try snake removal. We winced at the idea of another night with Kermit’s howling. Thursday night Brendon took matters into his own hand and as soon as the retinue began went searching for the darned toad and found him in the shower. Brendon grabbed a rag and swept up Kermit and threw him out into the stormy night.
Our weekend started well enough, with Mr. Zulu waiting at the hospital gate at 6am cleaning the tires on his ancient and decrepit white van. The sliding door has a rope to keep it from sliding down the mountain when somewhat gives it too much push. The rear window sticker “Shemba is the way” identifies the taxi from all other taxis. Mr. Zulu never collects money until we are almost in town, just in case we break down and he has to find another driver. Mr. Zulu pointed us to the two front two seats which are preferred by many but carry the heavy responsibility of collecting the fares and giving change for the 16 other passengers. As we took off up the rock road, the rain started and Mr. Zulu turned on the wipers, which slowly swished a few turns and died. He then played with the switch but the wipers were done for the day and he drove the 80 km in pouring rain as I wiped the windshield to clean off the defrost. Vryheid has never been a more welcome site!
Our return from Vryheid today was not so easy. Due to lack of control over their lives and transport difficulties, the poor in this world must make innumerable daily decision and continually plan ahead in order to get where they need to go, to have enough money to achieve the transport desired, and to have a back up plan when the major mode of transportation fails. Today we did not plan well and did not have a back up plan when the desired transport failed.
After church this morning, we talked about skipping lunch in town and returning immediately to Vryheid by the paved road taxi, which lets us off 4 km from the hospital. Heavy rains were forecast for the entire weekend and the streets were flooded on Sat. night, forcing us to walk down the middle of the street for dinner and ford the flooded street. However at noontime there was a patch of blue in the skies and we looked forward to prawn curry and kingklip fish at one of the few restaurants open on Sunday afternoon. After a pleasant lunch in a deserted restaurant we walked back to the B and B to get our baggage and headed the one mile to the taxi stand. The sky suddenly turned very dark and the wind picked up. The Zulus on the street started running which we have never seen before as normally the Zulus have a slow dignified gait. As we neared the taxi stand, we noted taxis leaving the rank with only one passenger or only a driver, which is very unusual. A few hundred yards before reaching our taxi, the rain started. We started running for the taxi but ended up drenched by the time we got in and greeted the single passenger. The rain started coming down in sheets and within a few minutes hail the size of ping pong balls was bouncing off the van and covering the ground with white balls looking like snow. The noisy clanging balls banged against the windshield and a small crack appeared; then another and another crack creating a pattern of lace against the glass. The taxi driver outlined the cracked patterns with his hand and sighed. Brendon and I were relieved to be out of the storm, even though we were mad at ourselves for not exercising our better judgment and leaving earlier. After a short while the hail subsided and the rain retreated from its violent aggression. A young mother with baby in tow got in the taxi and asked if we had an umbrella. I did not but offered her my rain jacket which she put on her head and took off leaving the baby in the taxi. The 8 month old baby began looking around for its mother and fretting, so I started singing some of my old baby standbys, which probably caused more distress. Soon the mother returned with my jacket and a big smile. The taxi began filling with the usual stream of Sunday travelers off to visit relatives or return to work. Two more family groups got on with two more infants. At last the taxi drive charged up the engine and took off with a windshield looking like a giant spider web. Rain banged on the van as it charged through the flooded roads to home. Up the mountain in the pouring rain, 13 adults and 3 infants, bags, packages, packs and goodwill on the part of all. As the infants grew restless, the moms pulled out snacks including potato chips, hot dogs and French fries, which bother my mother instincts but were effective in quieting the babies.
We drove up the mountain and hit the famous mist coupled with rain and potholes in the road. Landmarks were hidden in the mist and rain so a new worry developed that we would miss our stop. The sign appeared out of nowhere and the driver of the van stopped. What a relief to be out of that van. We headed down the dirt road towards home and after a short walk were picked up by the director of the hospital in his Sunday best driving his Mercedes Benz. 500 yards from the hospital a tree had fallen across the road, blocking entrance. Brendon and I hopped out and hurried through the rain to our home where the wind was blowing like a hurricane but we were at last safe and dry. After I reach home I realized that our lunch had caused another casualty; a tooth had chipped, probably from the candy mints that come with the bill. Looks like another adventure dealing with South African dentists so stay tuned.
This week the Bond’s had a third roommate, Kermit the Toad. Tuesday night brought heavy rains and heavy visitors to the one room flat off the business office; lost keys, maintenance worker needing a flash light (torch) and the director at 930pm looking for a lost file on his laptop. As we finally tottled off to bed, Brendon noticed a toad sitting behind the door of our sleeping area which had probably entered our home during one of the evening visits. We were both too tired to deal with the toad so turned out the light. Late that night I was awakend by a snoring GRRRRIPPP, GRRRIPP, GRRIPP!! And on and on. Why didn’t we deal with the toad earlier? The next morning the toad had disappeared and we hoped he had found his way out. Late the second and third night Brendon woke up to the snoring sound of the toad and I found his excreta in the bathroom. By this time Brendon had found the toad in wildlife book and at least our new roommate had a name, Guttural Toad. Kermit was payback for writing blogs about the great sleep we are having during our Peace Corps tenure. Our colleagues provided toad removal guidance and sophomorically warned us not to make the snakes angry when we next try snake removal. We winced at the idea of another night with Kermit’s howling. Thursday night Brendon took matters into his own hand and as soon as the retinue began went searching for the darned toad and found him in the shower. Brendon grabbed a rag and swept up Kermit and threw him out into the stormy night.
Sunday, December 03, 2006
Health and Happiness Report
It is time to write about our experiences with the diversity of this nation and how we get along in our daily lives. A few weeks ago the blog reported the poignant story of the young teenage girl whose mother was lost somewhere in a hospital in Durban and father was dead. A makoti (mature married woman) created rag dolls out of fabric scraps and the girl used them for comfort as she dragged them around the hospital grounds and slept with them at night. Last Sunday Brendon and I were asked to give the children’s sermon at our church. Each child was given a small piece of fabric and asked what could be done with a scrap of material. No one had an answer. The ubuntu quilt and the rag dolls were then unveiled as examples of what community sharing can achieve. Zenali’s story was told in all of its tenderness. Today a young mother greeted us as we arrived at church with a beautifully hand knit doll that her mother had made this week. The doll had a hat with flowers, a rainbow skirt, yellow pigtails, bloomers, eyes, nose and mouth. Her mother had been in the audience last week and was inspired to do something to help the patients. The white middle class in the English speaking church are striving to find ways to connect with the Zulus in the area and have adopted Mountain High Hospital as their outreach project. It is great to feel the church’s support for our remote mountain home. The country has been so damaged by apartheid that even today, ten years after liberation, racial groups do not have easy ways of connecting and establishing trust. Our experience has been one of overwhelming kindness, courtesy and kindness from everyone here. (Some are curious about Where we are from and Why we came). The African middle class is emerging for young people, especially if they are educated and urban. However, we are living in a very rural community where even the brightest, most motivated Zulus cannot access computer skills, higher education or decent jobs.
Today we taught Sunday School to the 18 children in Sunday School- all ages from 3 to 15 years old. Recycled stories and songs from our home church in Palos Verdes were a big hit with a grand finale of Duck Duck Goose for the little ones. Here the children know what ducks and geese look like and the myriads of varieties in this bird lover’s paradise.
This is a great time to report that we are staying healthy and happy. In spite of having serious jobs, we sleep like babies every night and do not experience the same kind of stress that we faced in our careers in the US. It may be that there is a realization that the locals are ultimately responsible for the functioning and success of the hospital and only they can make improvements that are sustainable. Our great health, happiness and deep rest at night may be due to the altitude and clean air. It may be the absence of commuting stress or traffic. It may be the novelty of the experience and the fun of growing food and enjoying the beauty of the rocks, hillsides, native forests, pastures and animals. Cooking dinner every night is an adventure as we prepare the ingredients at our dining table, transport it through the sleeping area to the hotplate in the kitchen corridor. (But how delicious everything tastes in this country of bounty and local farms. Today the grocery store in Vryheid had litchi, fresh cling peaches and mangos.) It may be the sense of purpose and belief that we are needed and wanted here. Whatever it is, The Bonds have taken the Cure and are enjoying country life. Each day has a life of its own and there is certainly no worrying about the troubles of tomorrow. The Peace Corps teaches Patience and Flexibility (known to us now as P and F) from the beginning of the cumbersome application process, through the medical clearances and the two month training. Ironically, although it would appear that we have little control over our daily life the opposite seems true as we are free to imagine great things for the hospital and enjoy the fantastic setting. Some would say that making things happen in Africa is almost impossible but we have found that we can make dreams a reality by plunging ahead and starting that programming, garden or craft project.
After struggling alone with our garden and then being supported with the tractor, many employees have jumped on board and are planting food that are staples and essential to their diet. They are wondering about the uses for weird crops that the Bond’s planted like basil, parsley, lettuce and radishes as they are not familiar. However we are looking forward to some great pesto and salads from the good earth of Mountain High. Come up and join us for dinner!
Today we taught Sunday School to the 18 children in Sunday School- all ages from 3 to 15 years old. Recycled stories and songs from our home church in Palos Verdes were a big hit with a grand finale of Duck Duck Goose for the little ones. Here the children know what ducks and geese look like and the myriads of varieties in this bird lover’s paradise.
This is a great time to report that we are staying healthy and happy. In spite of having serious jobs, we sleep like babies every night and do not experience the same kind of stress that we faced in our careers in the US. It may be that there is a realization that the locals are ultimately responsible for the functioning and success of the hospital and only they can make improvements that are sustainable. Our great health, happiness and deep rest at night may be due to the altitude and clean air. It may be the absence of commuting stress or traffic. It may be the novelty of the experience and the fun of growing food and enjoying the beauty of the rocks, hillsides, native forests, pastures and animals. Cooking dinner every night is an adventure as we prepare the ingredients at our dining table, transport it through the sleeping area to the hotplate in the kitchen corridor. (But how delicious everything tastes in this country of bounty and local farms. Today the grocery store in Vryheid had litchi, fresh cling peaches and mangos.) It may be the sense of purpose and belief that we are needed and wanted here. Whatever it is, The Bonds have taken the Cure and are enjoying country life. Each day has a life of its own and there is certainly no worrying about the troubles of tomorrow. The Peace Corps teaches Patience and Flexibility (known to us now as P and F) from the beginning of the cumbersome application process, through the medical clearances and the two month training. Ironically, although it would appear that we have little control over our daily life the opposite seems true as we are free to imagine great things for the hospital and enjoy the fantastic setting. Some would say that making things happen in Africa is almost impossible but we have found that we can make dreams a reality by plunging ahead and starting that programming, garden or craft project.
After struggling alone with our garden and then being supported with the tractor, many employees have jumped on board and are planting food that are staples and essential to their diet. They are wondering about the uses for weird crops that the Bond’s planted like basil, parsley, lettuce and radishes as they are not familiar. However we are looking forward to some great pesto and salads from the good earth of Mountain High. Come up and join us for dinner!
Saturday, December 02, 2006
Worldwide Aids Awareness and Welfare Dept.Day
This week fly by so fast that as I am sit in my garden perch at the B and B in Vryheid and I cannot fathom how another week could disappear from view, use and sense of ownership. Friday Dec 1 was the Worldwide AIDS Awareness Day, which sounds like a depressing event, but turned out to be a day of celebration and community sprit. We are all one in this endeavor to Stop Aids and Keep the Promise! Truthfully, health event days in the United States have seemed to be contrived and lackluster. NOT HERE in South Africa! The opportunity to teach, learn and support one’s neighbor was embraced by the hospital, patients and community in an amazing outpouring of feeling and education that went on for three hours. The nurses and director of the hospital gave rousing speeches in Zulu about the unity and support for HIV positive – we are all together in this problem. The speeches were broken up by singing and dancing-the director of the hospital and the tailor being a hit with their jerk Zulu rhythms. Nurses who normally observe the highest levels of South African decorum were electrically charged as they admonished the participants to Stop the Silence and face the problem. The ten speakers did not use Power Point presentations, notes, overheads or teleprompters. They spoke from their heart and souls using their wit and imagination to entertain and cajole the audience (mainly comprised of patients) to change behavior and face the reality of AIDS. Although I could not understand most of the Zulu speeches, I felt a sense of unity and purpose which can best be described as collective behavior when one loses personal identity and joins in a group identity. A poignant moment occurred when a young girl just discharged came back to the hospital to read a poem she had written.
The last two weekends at Mountain High have been significant as six or seven local residents died and the hospital administration office was full of Isipithipithi(confusion) on Monday morning, straightening out the death records. Unfortunately, every day is Aids Awareness Day in South Africa.
Another day this week was spent assisting a disabled patient obtain his disability grant. The poor soul has been in the hospital since Sept. 2005 and has been attempting to obtain the disability grant promised by the government to seriously ill patients. His only success occurred in Sept 2006, where one hundred dollars showed up in his bank account, and $80 had to be donated to pay for his sister’s funeral. A driver took us to the welfare office in a nearby town around 10am and the entire day was spent waiting on cement benches under a metal awning for the social worker to examine the claim, doctor’s report and identity records. At 4pm she announced that the patient was due to receive money on Jan. 5. Success at last! However, a big worry now is that the bank account will be closed due to lack of activity and the high banking fees charged by South African banks. If the money is not physically withdrawn it is returned to the government. Thus, the unlikely sight of pajama clad patients appears in welfare offices and banks all over South Africa. The day was not a total loss for entertainment as a herd of baboons was spotted scurrying across the high plain to the woods on our drive out. The return was rewarded by sights of eland, springbok and bush pig in a game preserve next to the dirt road. The bush pigs have an exotic look to them with their long ears and exaggerated features. It sure will be fun to get out and see the sights of this magnificent country.
The Peace Corps Medical Officer paid us a visit this week to evaluate our site. She brought the three remaining boxes that we shipped in July including two boxes of M mail (dozens of books to keep us busy the next two years). We had almost given up on seeing our favorite cookbooks, travel guides, technical books for our jobs, and trash novels to keep us entertained. Christmas arrived early for the Bond’s so thank you to the Peace Corps for making the long trip. Our sons are arriving on Dec. 22 so this truly will be a special holiday. Merry Christmas to you all!
The last two weekends at Mountain High have been significant as six or seven local residents died and the hospital administration office was full of Isipithipithi(confusion) on Monday morning, straightening out the death records. Unfortunately, every day is Aids Awareness Day in South Africa.
Another day this week was spent assisting a disabled patient obtain his disability grant. The poor soul has been in the hospital since Sept. 2005 and has been attempting to obtain the disability grant promised by the government to seriously ill patients. His only success occurred in Sept 2006, where one hundred dollars showed up in his bank account, and $80 had to be donated to pay for his sister’s funeral. A driver took us to the welfare office in a nearby town around 10am and the entire day was spent waiting on cement benches under a metal awning for the social worker to examine the claim, doctor’s report and identity records. At 4pm she announced that the patient was due to receive money on Jan. 5. Success at last! However, a big worry now is that the bank account will be closed due to lack of activity and the high banking fees charged by South African banks. If the money is not physically withdrawn it is returned to the government. Thus, the unlikely sight of pajama clad patients appears in welfare offices and banks all over South Africa. The day was not a total loss for entertainment as a herd of baboons was spotted scurrying across the high plain to the woods on our drive out. The return was rewarded by sights of eland, springbok and bush pig in a game preserve next to the dirt road. The bush pigs have an exotic look to them with their long ears and exaggerated features. It sure will be fun to get out and see the sights of this magnificent country.
The Peace Corps Medical Officer paid us a visit this week to evaluate our site. She brought the three remaining boxes that we shipped in July including two boxes of M mail (dozens of books to keep us busy the next two years). We had almost given up on seeing our favorite cookbooks, travel guides, technical books for our jobs, and trash novels to keep us entertained. Christmas arrived early for the Bond’s so thank you to the Peace Corps for making the long trip. Our sons are arriving on Dec. 22 so this truly will be a special holiday. Merry Christmas to you all!
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